How old is your wood stove?

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I made this up about 20 years ago from some ash I milled. Mortise and tenon joinery.

Splits go on top. Holds a weeks worth of wood. Nice to have plenty of wood handy when it's - oF outside.

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And some woodstove cooking, boiled carrots and potatoes, venison backstraps with garlic peppers and onions

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i have a 1978 or 79 old mill top exit, which is a clone of the gpa fisher. i know i need to get around to replacing it, with something that burns hotter and uses less firewood. my grand mother had it originally. it sat maybe 10 years unused. i put it in my house in 2001 . i probably should pull it out and rebuild the brick and paint it and put it in a shed or something or someone else home. it still is solid.
 
Mine's about a 12 year old Century insert made in Canada. I like it. The brick work around it and behind it is massive and once the brick gets heated up it puts off the heat on both sides into the house. I get 82˚ heat off the brickwork that's about 3' thick behind it in another room.
 

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Why do some wood stoves have firebrick while many don't? Our Resolute doesn't.

Rich
Short version? Cast iron stoves are tough enough to not need the fire brick protection. Steel plate will warp if it's close to the flame heat from the fire.
I tend to start fires by leaning my wood on the RH side (where the downdraft openings are, that and motor oil fire starter has eroded the top baffle lip. The arrow top left is a weight I added to the bypass damper when heat warped it a bit, the weight has straightened it and it now seats snugly again ( this was done, corrected about 10 years ago.
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Short version? Cast iron stoves are tough enough to not need the fire brick protection. Steel plate will warp if it's close to the flame heat from the fire.
I tend to start fires by leaning my wood on the RH side (where the downdraft openings are, that and motor oil fire starter has eroded the top baffle lip. The arrow top left is a weight I added to the bypass damper when heat warped it a bit, the weight has straightened it and it now seats snugly again ( this was done, corrected about 10 years ago.
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Thank you, Gary...that makes sense.

I would assume that for that damper to warp, that stove had to get roaring!

Rich
 

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