How thinnings go--pre yarding.(not like Axemen)

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With the talk about high stumps and bad stuff from Axemen, I took some pictures while working and getting a unit ready for yarding. Here's how the process goes around here.

A logger who knows yarding equipment capabilities and what they need for lines to hang on, takes flagging and flags in what are called Skyline Corridors.
He needs to run a perfect, straight line, and there needs to be a sturdy tree at the end to use as a tail tree. There need to be stumps or trees at the landing for guylines. Sometimes the guys have to make several trips up the hill to get it right. When they do, I get called in and I take several quarts of paint, a paintgun, and in this weather...water, and I start down and up, or in this case, up and down each corridor marking any trees that aren't already marked to cut, so the lines can fit through. I use a 12 foot spacing, 6 feet on each side. I'll mark wider on the bottom side if on a sidehill and sometimes a little wider for downhill yarding. Here's the corridor I headed up. They used pink flagging.
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Along the way, if I notice something unusual or scary, I'll talk to the cutters about it so they know. Here's a very scary to me hangup or beartrap. I told the head cutter about it and he knows who will be in that strip and their abilities. In this case, it'll be an extremely experienced cutter.

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Here's how steep the unit is up here. The crook on the bottom of the tree is called Pistol Butt.
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At last, I see the tail tree. The 3 bands of pink flagging mean don't cut it to the fallers. I put a blue L and stump mark on it so the HOOKTENDER can cut it down to derig it faster. We like to leave a bit of down wood in the unit. It makes for bug, slug and snail habitat and decays to make the soil richer.
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Things to look for in a tail tree? Around here Douglas-fir is the preferred species. It needs to be sound, fairly large, and have good roots. The soils here are mostly vocanic pumice, and there is rock up on the ridge where this tree is, so I will make another trip up later with the hooktender, to OK and slap paint on nearby trees he will pick out for guying up the tail tree, or using what we call Twisters to add more support. The yarder will be a Madill 071 which also was used by the one crew on Axemen.

Unlike the guy who has to flag in the corridors, if I have worked with them before, and know they do things straight and right, I can take a shortcut across the hill, over to the next tail tree and repeat the process but head back to the landing.
NEXT: Cutting
 
After the corridors are marked out, cutting can begin. The trees are cut so they angle towards the corridor to make the lateral yarding (pulling line in to the carriage on the skyline) which is also known as the inhaul. Here's a picture showing what is called a yarding break, where trees on each side are laid out so they'll go to a different corridor. The carriage is required to have a certain amount of line on it for inhaul, and the corridors are spaced accordingly.
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Stump height is required to be under 12 inches. This one is well done.
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Occasionally, there is a good reason to have a high stump. Here's one that is obvious.
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Here is another, technically, the cutter should have lopped off the stump after cutting, but really not a big issue.
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So, other than the roadbuilding, that's what goes on before the yarder arrives.
The cutters will have cut about a month if the yarder arrives as planned. Pretty boring, eh?:)
 
Wow(sarcastically) There is more to it than they showed on axmen. Its funny how TV can give people misconceptions of how things work.
Great pics. Thanks for taking the time to show them.:clap:
 
Here's some more "not like Axemen" PNW thinning.

Unlike all the work that has to be done in preparation for cable yarding in a thinning sale, a cut to length (CTL) side is pretty simple to run. I don't have to crawl around the brush following the corridor flag line painting trees.

In western Oregon most of the BLM timber sales are sold as "lump sump" which means the sale was cruised to a (hopefully) high level of precision prior to bidding. The timber companies then bid on the sale as a whole instead of bidding on a $/mbf basis. Of course this means any additional timber needed for logging must be cruised to be sold at bid price. So in a thinning sale I have to cruise each tree as I paint them which can really take some time.

On a CTL side there are no preset corridors. At the prework meeting I will go over the contract requirements of where they can operate and what additional trees they can cut for their access trails. They paint any trees they have to cut for access with a big red "X" on the butt log and stump. I then measure these trees as they bring them into the landing.

Most of our units that are flat enough (<35% slopes) for a CTL side have a network of old skid trails from when they logged it the first time with Cats. We want the harvester to cut out the unit so that the forwarder can utilize these existing trails to minimize any additional compaction of the soil. The harvester is able to operate on top of the slash and tops that they create from cutting the trees. When they are finished it can be hard some times to see where they traveled though the unit.

Unfortunately for some that work with us, anything ground based = bad while cable and helicopter = good. Our timber sale contracts limit CTL sides to working only between June 1 and October 15 and only then when soil moisture levels are below 25%.:dunno:

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Yes, lump sum or payment unit sales get rid of the scaling process. They make less work for the office people, but more work for the sale administrator,
what with the cruising required. Also, it makes it more work to throw out part of a unit. That thrown out volume must be calculated and then deducted from the amount paid for the unit. With a scaled sale, we just agree to it, and then delete that part. That must be why we get paid the big bucks, or so I've been told. :)
 
Onward...

Yesterday, the yarder was hauled up on a lowboy. I found it like this, this morning. Notice the careful job of flagging so motorists will see it.
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Here's a picture of the blocks that are on top of the tube.
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The yarder will sit on the main road until the road into the unit is reopened. That road was built 2 years ago and then winterized, or put to bed. It has held up well now an excavator or cat will have to reopen it and then the yarder will be walked up. Here's a waterbar.
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And rigging up has started on another yarder on another unit.
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Hmmmm, I must say, The SEASON has begun. :)
 
Myrtle can you explain a bit more on how the soil moisture level is taken and does it relate to slope?

There a few ways to determine soil moisture levels but only one that I use.

The 25% requirement refers to the conditions of the soil 2-4" below the surface. We only care about the top 12" or so layer of mineral soil as this is where the dreaded "compaction" occurs from equipment passing over. The textbook way to determine moisture content is to simply take a sample, weigh it, put it in an oven, then weight it again after a few days. The difference is the level of moisture. We also have a fancy electronic meter that gives an analogous measurement of conductivity which is influenced by moisture.

I however, use my hands and feet. Kick off the duff layer, get down to bare mineral soil and scoop up a handful. Squeeze. Does it compact into a nice smooth clump? Too wet. Or does it sort of fall apart and not stick to your hand? At or less than 25% soil moisture. I don't have time to waste with equipment and just try to get the soil scientist out in the woods when I have loggers who want to start NOW!

Soil moisture can relate to slope as slope can effect how fast areas drain. It just depends on the type of soil as to how fast it dries out after the real winter rains end. I have some units in the same township and range that were dry enough in May and some that are just now getting there.

An as Slowp said, the SEASON has begun here too. 3 yarders, 2 Yoders starting in August, 2 CTL sides now, another in a week, one skidder side, and two sales starting road construction. And we are putting up 15MMBF more for bid in August.
 
Great stuff. If I had finished school I would probably doing what you guys do. My mothers choice for me. Instead I met some landscapers that sold me on the idea of working a seasonal job in order to travel around the world in the off season.:popcorn:
 
There a few ways to determine soil moisture levels but only one that I use.

The 25% requirement refers to the conditions of the soil 2-4" below the surface. We only care about the top 12" or so layer of mineral soil as this is where the dreaded "compaction" occurs from equipment passing over. The textbook way to determine moisture content is to simply take a sample, weigh it, put it in an oven, then weight it again after a few days. The difference is the level of moisture. We also have a fancy electronic meter that gives an analogous measurement of conductivity which is influenced by moisture.

I however, use my hands and feet. Kick off the duff layer, get down to bare mineral soil and scoop up a handful. Squeeze. Does it compact into a nice smooth clump? Too wet. Or does it sort of fall apart and not stick to your hand? At or less than 25% soil moisture. I don't have time to waste with equipment and just try to get the soil scientist out in the woods when I have loggers who want to start NOW!

Soil moisture can relate to slope as slope can effect how fast areas drain. It just depends on the type of soil as to how fast it dries out after the real winter rains end. I have some units in the same township and range that were dry enough in May and some that are just now getting there.

An as Slowp said, the SEASON has begun here too. 3 yarders, 2 Yoders starting in August, 2 CTL sides now, another in a week, one skidder side, and two sales starting road construction. And we are putting up 15MMBF more for bid in August.

Thanks! That was a very explanation.
 
On skidder units, we wait until the rut gets 10 feet long and 6 inches deep, then it is too wet. Except when and after October 1 comes around. Then I lose all my knowledge and ability to measure and a soil scientist must come out to the unit to see if the rutting is 10 feet long and 6 inches deep. Makes me feel like this>:buttkick:
Then as of April 1 I will regain my ability.
 
I tried using the D-5 to check the soil moisture content. It worked but was slow method. Took two days with the D-6 to dig the 5 out

ry%3D320
 
That doesn't look too wet. 'Cept where you parked the Cat of course. What happens when you get the '6 stuck?

That looks like POC. Cutting any nice ones?
 
I've got a gob of 2mill cedar decked. I'm on the coast, so I don't get any 'nice' ones. Most of it croaked from root disease.

Incidently, I bought and planted a couple thou. POC 'disease resistant' 2-0's from the State nursery, they all died. I'm really bummed.

As for getting the D-6 stuck, yes, I've done that too. Two years ago I not only got it stuck on an adverse, but threw a track trying to get out. It was a funny story involving yellow jackets.

Life can be interesting for a one man band logging show, (w/dog).
 
The Rigging Crew Arrived

The rigging crew was up today. This was on the cutter's rig.
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The yarder was not set up yet. Two of the crew were working with the shovel, he was clearing out the road and loading logs onto trucks. The carriage, or as someone called it that thingy on the pulleys, was sitting so I took some shots. It is a big one.
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A new hooktender:eek: :eek: for me to contend with. This one is starting out on shaky ground, as he sent me down to the wrong stump. :) Here's the park like ground that their lines will go down to attach to an anchor stump.
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No worries for me, I have the crew dreading the downhill yarding. When asked how far up and how steep it went, I told them it was a 3 ibuprofen tablets hill. Tomorrow they'll be rigging up the yarder for uphill yarding and I (oh joy) will get to clamber through the brush painting trees because they yarding crew needs a corridor through already felled timber. More vitamin I!
 
On getting the cat stuck

Bushler,
That doesn't look too bad. Once while hanging on the cat while shotgunning. I got the cat stuck in a bog hole. D6 and we pulled it ahead into a soft spot. Before it was over the mud was up to where you had dig out a little to get to the power shift, just above arm rest level on the seat. It was a damn solid tailholt about then.
Broke a track while hanging on a D8 once about a thousand feet off the road. That was not good. That's when you kick your hat!
 
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