How to handle burls?

[thepheniox]

Today we started a big job and the tree is full of burls. I free hand slabbed a couple to see how they look and put them though the planer. My question is how do I handle the burls. Do I leave them whole for a year or two. Or should I slab them.

 

[mtngun]

That last one looks kinda fishy. :msp_wink:

 

[yooper]

I am not sure if this is the proper way but I wrap them in paper or put them in paper bags to dry whole (this seems to prevent cracking) I will let them dry in the attic of the shop in the summer and then just keep them high on a shelf in the winter where its warm from my stove. I have saved many with great results this way. I dont turn them but slab them and use them in my intarsia projects once there dry. I dont slab them until I plan to use them.

 

[thepheniox]

Opps I don't know how that last one got in there. I must have hit the wrong button or something but that was Sunday's job. I don't plan to turn the burls. I plan to make them into coasters and serving trays and maybe a cutting board or two and give them out as presents.

 

[yooper]

Opps I don't know how that last one got in there. I must have hit the wrong button or something but that was Sunday's job. I don't plan to turn the burls. I plan to make them into coasters and serving trays and maybe a cutting board or two and give them out as presents.

I have cut them wet and they cracked even while in paper. although some have not if they where cut at least 4 inches thick.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I would cut them wet, and wax them on all sides if possible. They still might crack some.

 

[Daninvan]

I'm looking for ideas on this too. I cut up some very similarly sized burls to yours this spring. After lopping the burls off the log with my chainsaw, I took them home and ran them through the bandsaw at more or less an inch thick. My plan is once they are dry to try and cut them into veneer. A couple larger ones are more like 2" thick and I'm going to get those turned into platters, if my buddy ever gets his lathe set up again after his move . . .

They've been sitting out behind a north facing wall under the eves for the past few months and I haven't seen any signs of cracking yet. The paper bag idea is a good one though. If it ever warms up here I will toss them into bags for the rest of the summer so they don't dry too quickly.

Dan

 

[SDB777]

Try contacting >>>>>Bad Dog Burls <<<<<

See if he'll buy them from you green? If not, ask him how he does his.
In other words, I'm not sure of the 'best way', I've done a few one way that have been AOK, and then that same way again that cracked badly.





What kind of wood is that?




Scott B

 

[thepheniox]

It's Norway maple. I think I will try the paper bag and see what happens. I should get at least 20 burls from this tree. I will also call the Burl guy and see if he can help. I didn't open the attachment but if he is in the states I doubt I could ship wood over the border. Thanx for all the ideas.

 

[BlueRider]

Typicaly burls are shaped like an icecream cone. think of the part you see as the ice cream and then imagine a cone buried inside the trunk. some burls have rather shallow cones and some have cones that extend nearly the the pith.

If you slice the visable part of the burl off the trunk you will likely leave more of the burl than you cut off. I am a bit limited in my exeriianc as I have only found burls on walnut, elm, and sycamore. the sycamore was very disapointing as the burl was less interesting than quarter sawn sycamore. the elm was actually nicer then the walnut partaly because the walnut is so dark it is hard to see the beautiful grain.

The walnut burl that I slabed at 1" and dried standing on edge in my shop dried with zero defect and little warping. The walnut burl I left whole cracked. the walnut burl that was part of a 2" thick slab dried with little or no defect stickerd and stacked with all my other slabs.

Burl usually dries well because the grain is going in all directions and is interlocked. the interlocking makes it stronger and the grain going in all directions makes it shrink equaly in all directions. as long as it dries evenly and slowly you should be good to go.

 

[SDB777]

It's Norway maple. I think I will try the paper bag and see what happens. I should get at least 20 burls from this tree. I will also call the Burl guy and see if he can help. I didn't open the attachment but if he is in the states I doubt I could ship wood over the border. Thanx for all the ideas.

I wouldn't see a big problem with shipping burls across borders? After all, I've received burls from the land down under.....



Scott B

 

[discounthunter]

I would cut them wet, and wax them on all sides if possible. They still might crack some.

i would also take pictures prior to sealing them,if you intend to sell them ,some people will by green wood especially burls,pictures of fresh cut wood always look better than a year old sealed piece.

btw that last one i would not wait a year one,lol

 

[TraditionalTool]

i would also take pictures prior to sealing them,if you intend to sell them ,some people will by green wood especially burls,pictures of fresh cut wood always look better than a year old sealed piece.

btw that last one i would not wait a year one,lol

Burl always looks exceptional with finish on it, so I don't think that would be a problem, but if you take pics of it while it's freshly cut, wipe it with mineral spirits to pop the grain.