How to make an epoxy hub on your grinder wheel

[buttercup]

I only have one grinder so I frequently need to change grinding wheels, I noticed that the thicker ones I use for adjusting the depth gauges is a little loose at the hub making it unbalanced when I re-mount it.


I have used mold release wax on to the grinder hub but some car wax paste or similar could be used as well.


I have used this Loctite 5 minute epoxy, any 5 minute epoxy can be used but this particular one is especially easy to work with in this context.


This epoxy have a short pot-life before it starts to plasticize so it needs to be applied rather quickly without too much hesitation.


The hub is placed on the axle and then the grinder wheel is pushed gently and carefully in place, it might be a good idea to have some release wax on to the axle and surrounding parts as well.


Mount the fastening screw tightly just as if you are about to grind.


After about 10 to 15 minutes the epoxy have become solid plastic, but it is still kinda soft and you can make permanent marks or dents in it.


This is the best time to pull it loose from the metal hub, it may need a little patient wiggle back and forth to loosen.


At this time it is easy to remove excess epoxy with a knife, it can even be peeled away if you got some epoxy to any metal parts.


Now it has a solid and accurate hub that fits perfectly on to the axle mount every time.

 

[2strokenut]

Good thinking ill have to pop that one in the back of my brain for one of those some day one day i might have to moments.

 

[Okie294life]

As a safety dude I’d advise against this. I hit contractors up on this all the time, the wheel needs to match the grinder unless you want it permenantly embedded in your body. If there was a spacer made especially for this it may be better, but any bit off center and these run the risk of blowing up.

 

[buttercup]

As a safety dude I’d advise against this. I hit contractors up on this all the time, the wheel needs to match the grinder unless you want it permenantly embedded in your body. If there was a spacer made especially for this it may be better, but any bit off center and these run the risk of blowing up.

Interesting... I just showed how to make a better and safer hub on your wheel and you would advice against doing this because you are a safety dude? The world just never stops surprising me.

 

[buzz sawyer]

What rpm is the disc turning?

 

[Okie294life]

Interesting... I just showed how to make a better and safer hub on your wheel and you would advice against doing this because you are a safety dude? The world just never stops surprising me.

Yes. If you ever have had to deal with an accident where one of these exploded on someone you’d get it too.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Did you have to dress the wheel after the epoxy hub to get it exactly round?
Again, what rpm? I had the same concern as okie294life. If it's slow enough, maybe no danger of explosion?
What was the difference in diameter between the wheel and the hub?

 

[ray benson]

Curious to the siz

Did you have to dress the wheel after the epoxy hub to get it exactly round?
Again, what rpm? I had the same concern as okie294life. If it's slow enough, maybe no danger of explosion?
What was the difference in diameter between the wheel and the hub?

Some cars use an aluminum crush washer on the transmission drain bolt. Seems we could come up with a fit.

 

[buzz sawyer]

What about a thin tapered sleeve that would center any wheel?

 

[2strokenut]

Most disks are made by compacting a loose medium and bonding it with a polymer glue of some sort and a glass fiber loose woven. And I've never seen a disc or wheel the ever come from the factory that is 100% round / tuned to your grinder hand or bench they all take a few seconds to wear in or need to be dressed. His 1mm epoxy shim would not make it explode it only centralises it on the spindle once the retainer bolts are done up the epoxy shim is 100% incassed so explain to me how this will course the disk to explode.

 

[gary courtney]

Most disks are made by compacting a loose medium and bonding it with a polymer glue of some sort and a glass fiber loose woven. And I've never seen a disc or wheel the ever come from the factory that is 100% round / tuned to your grinder hand or bench they all take a few seconds to wear in or need to be dressed. His 1mm epoxy shim would not make it explode it only centralises it on the spindle once the retainer bolts are done up the epoxy shim is 100% incassed so explain to me how this will course the disk to explode.

Question ? can minute vibration cause the epoxy to wear ,epoxy would not have the equivalent hardness of steel.

 

[2strokenut]

Question ? can minute vibration cause the epoxy to wear ,epoxy would not have the equivalent hardness of steel.

Only if you do not tighten up the bolts properly. And his shim is only 1 to 2mm its not like 5mm + so his locking nuts have plenty of disc to clamp down on.

 

[Canyon Angler]

Sometimes, factory-fresh grinding wheels just explode, whether or not there's any vibration or non-concentricity. Maybe it's because there's an invisible unseen crack, maybe it's just because the planets aligned and the operator held his mouth just right. Any non-concentricity (maybe caused by an off-center epoxy "hub" or an oversized bore hole through the wheel) just increases the chances.

Exploding grinding wheel + femoral artery = bad juju

 

[old guy]

Sometimes, factory-fresh grinding wheels just explode, whether or not there's any vibration or non-concentricity. Maybe it's because there's an invisible unseen crack, maybe it's just because the planets aligned and the operator held his mouth just right. Any non-concentricity (maybe caused by an off-center epoxy "hub" or an oversized bore hole through the wheel) just increases the chances.

Exploding grinding wheel + femoral artery = bad juju

I have 4 chain grinders, I don't remember mounting a new wheel that was concentric. This man just showed us how to make it concentric and you can't see that, maybe you should get some schoolhousin.

 

[Canyon Angler]

How does he get it concentric? I must have missed that schoolhousin lesson.

 

[old guy]

You grind it concentric with the shaping stone, have you no experience with this at all?

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have 4 chain grinders, I don't remember mounting a new wheel that was concentric. This man just showed us how to make it concentric and you can't see that, maybe you should get some schoolhousin.

Maybe you can answer my question. My only experience is with the old Foley Belsaw sharpeners, which were not fast. What speed does this wheel turn? If slow, no problem. If faster than like 2000 rpm, I can see the concern until you grind it concentric and that should eliminate any issues.

 

[old guy]

I nave no experience with the foley grinder, you should be able to find it's specs somewhere.
Buttercup fit his wheel to the hub with epoxy so he does not have to regrind it every time he takes it off & puts it back on.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I nave no experience with the foley grinder, you should be able to find it's specs somewhere.
Buttercup fit his wheel to the hub with epoxy so he does not have to regrind it every time he takes it off & puts it back on.

The FB units do not turn fast enough for this to be an issue. I'm trying to find out how fast the OP's wheel turns. Since I can't get an answer to a simple question, I give up.

 

[Canyon Angler]

You grind it concentric with the shaping stone, have you no experience with this at all?

Oh, I see. No, I've never used a chainsaw grinder. Just lots of angle grinders, bench grinders, etc.

I can see how using a "shaping stone" could make the center bore and outer circumference concentric, yet you could still have imbalance, but I'm guessing a chainsaw grinder doesn't turn fast enough to matter. (I was thinking this grinder went real fast like an angle grinder...) So...never mind! Shoulda kept my mouf shut.