hows this kit

[sawchip]

beginner looking to do some removals. just want something to get started with, the only thing i heard is that a "cheaper" saddle can be kind of rough on the skin(chaffing tearing) is this true. what do you guys think. seems like a good price

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail_kit.asp?item=27902&catID=

 

[RacerX]

I started with a similar Weaver saddle (the one with the legs straps that are adjustable). They not very comfortable if you're hanging for any period of time and the part that goes across your back offers little support and even less comfort. That will become evident in a short period of time if you're on spurs and using a lanyard. Also as a personal preference I like the aluminum "caddy" pads. They really make a difference in keeping your spurs from twisting on your legs.

Basically you'll get what you pay for. That setup will get you up in the tree but your comfort may suffer a bit.

 

[md_tree_dood]

You need to add a climbing line to that setup

 

[ND_ash]

I purchase that very kit and returned it after sitting in the harness for 10 minutes. Bought a cougar instead and so far love it. Not to sure on the spurs have seen others that may be better. I don't have a lot of time in spurs mostly used buckets until lately.

 

[sawchip]

You need to add a climbing line to that setup

yes. pondering on that also. and im starting to think of what i heard about that saddle is true. i dont need to be in the best saddle but i do like to be somewhat comfortable. thanks

 

[Job Corps Tree]

how is this kit

Thats right, you will need a Rope, you would not buy Boots that don't feel good -why buy a saddle the don,t feel right. spend a bit and get a better one. If you are clost to a good tool store they will let you try it at least to hang in it & see if it fits for you!

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

I purchase that very kit and returned it after sitting in the harness for 10 minutes. Bought a cougar instead and so far love it. Not to sure on the spurs have seen others that may be better. I don't have a lot of time in spurs mostly used buckets until lately.

beginner looking to do some removals. just want something to get started with, the only thing i heard is that a "cheaper" saddle can be kind of rough on the skin(chaffing tearing) is this true. what do you guys think. seems like a good price

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail_kit.asp?item=27902&catID=

I've been happy using that style saddle, but the next step up - wide back, leather lined. It's been great. I like the split double D - if I have to spend a lot of time sitting I'll use a spreader snap - like when deadwooding a long stem.

Anyway, It really depends on what fits your body and your style. That type saddle didn't work for ND_ash but it did for me - so, there's no telling how it may work for you. Fortunately, I had a shop where I could go and try on every style saddle they had. Like buying boots, I think it's risky to mail order something that's got to fit just right - unless you got the time and money to ship stuff back and reorder.

BTW who ever told you that a "saddle can be kind of rough on the skin" must be messin' with you. Mine never touches the skin
... lordy, hope he ain't climbing naked!:jawdrop:

 

[WolverineMarine]

Dude..I work for Pennline and that's the same saddle they issue with all of our trucks..2 words..they SUUUUCK(I was lucky enough to have already bought my own weaver thank god)..spend a little extra if you're gonna be serious and get a floating d-style, or the rope bridge style like the cougar with a wide back as mentioned before(wide back is ESSENTIAL)..I'm not a fan of butt strap(or bosun' chair) styled ones..I like the individual leg versions personally..less..restrictive if you catch my drift...I do bucket work and climb also to kinda keep things interesting and from getting burned out on one or the other..I totally agree with the climbing line suggestion..you can get by with a 150' hank of 1/2"(13mm)..tie a bunt hitch to the d-ring..leave 3 to 5' extra..tie a blakes hitch and a figure 8 at the end and you're 100% safe and ready to roll..skip all the fancy do dads until you've done it a while and see what other stuff is out there..plus..with a little extra cut off of that hank..get a couple of caribiners or snap rings and make a nice 8 to 10' flip-line..

 

[crashagn]

I started with the wide back saddle much like the 1 in the kit.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=01035+SM&catID=1392

You have to start somewere but ill never get another 1. I should listened to my self the 1st time, spent the extra $$ and gotten something better to start in. I was looking at a Petzel Navaho

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=C790F0+1&catID=1389

If you doing spike climbing then ithe weaveris on the bottom half of being ok. As far as climbing- heck no. Very uncomfortable. I do enjoy being up in the tree but not for long when my junk feels like there is a dang boa constrictor enjoyin himself

 

[WolverineMarine]

ooh..forgot to mention..if you're anywhere around power lines..do not get a wirecore flipline..for..obvious reasons..LOL just better to do a double tie in reguardless if you're around power or not..2 flip lines are pretty much a must while your spiking up a tree..one to keep attached to keep you bucked into something..and another to leap frog over the next branch..I think you get the idea..

 

[sawchip]

BTW who ever told you that a "saddle can be kind of rough on the skin" must be messin' with you. Mine never touches the skin lordy, hope he ain't climbing naked!:jawdrop:

i'm just repeating what i was told i sure hope he aint climbing nekked either:jawdrop: thanks for the responses fellas

 

[Lawnmowerboy48]

Have you even climbed before?

 

[zopi]

If you have never climbed before...get some instruction..find a >GOOD<
climbing arborist, tree climbing clubs, there iare useful things to learn from
a rock climbing class...obviously you don't drive pitons into a tree, but the basics are there.

I am not a pro arborist, or even an arborist, just a guy winds up messing with trees alot, simple takedowns (if there is such a thing) some pruning, but not much and not complicated, as i know my limits, and am unwilling to exceed them.

I climbed some in Boy scouts years ago, and then again more recently,
as a boarding team member in the Navy...and they got POed at me for using two prussiks to ascend the containers intstead of the approved method (basically body thrusting..c'mon, I'm lazier than that..) and I do not do alot of climbing in trees..I am doing some now, partly from necessity, and partly from just plain old stubborn want to. But the thing that always comes home is that you don't know as much as you think...I did a fairly hairy trim this afternoon for
a friend, about 30 feet up a straight sweetgum (HATE THEM!) and got into a bind as I got to a point where I could not advance up the tree and had no
way of setting a higher tie in point..I wasted alot of energy, and got myself tired..when if I had simply stopped a second, and thought..a simple basket hitch around the trunk would have put me up where I needed to be by giving me a stable toe hold to get me one more branch up...it was ungainly and uncomfortable.but I got the job done, safely, (I never had less than two solid tie ins)..plus a limitation in my own equipment which I will rectify before I go up again..I need more line..I like alot of redundancy available, and I need more range in tight spots with the throwbag...slingshot...

anyhow, my point, and one which the guys on here who do this work day in and day out will no doubt verify..there is no substitute for one on one instruction...and preferably in tree instruction...the situation above would have been easier for me had I been thinking "tree" instead of thinking
"Connex Box."

I will say, though, that I believe you should learn how to ascend and descend comfortably using a friction hitch of your choice, and maybe to be conversant with the properties of several, i'm pretty much settled on the Blakes hitch, as I am simply comfortable with it...the mechanical ascent/descent devices are great, but they can get dropped or broken or whatever up the tree, or box or cliff or whatever you happen to be stranded on...doesn't take much to whip on a set of friction hitches and allow you to move when otherwise you might not be able to...plus, when you need a moving lanyard right now, it's an easy tie..

ok.i'll shut up now, and I am sure someone will preach at me for being dumb, I just wanted to illustrate the need for some approporiate instruction. :yoyo:

 

[sawchip]

Have you even climbed before?

yepp, it wasnt in a saddle like i had the link to, thats the reason i was asking.
it was a while back ago had a buddy that did it and he showed me quite a few things.

 

[outofmytree]

No rope = no means of rapid descent.

Take the money you have allocated for this kit and get some climbing training from an accredited trainer. After that you will be better prepared to select the right kit for the work you wish to do. Stay low and slow mate.

 

[ND_ash]

I would have to agree with these guys as I don't have alot of experience in the trees myself. I have been dropping trees for 15 yrs with a bucket. We are just starting to climb because the area, we have no access with lifts. One of my employs graduated from lineman school so he is a big help with the climbing and I have over 100 hrs of high angle rescue training. Because of my other job, we work on wind turbines, heights are not a problem with us. Ropes and equipment is very important, knowledge of how to use them is also very important. It is your life hanging on that rope, spur, harness or rigging. We have lots of training between us, maybe even to much if that's possible. My first climb to actually do something wasn't fast or pretty but we both agreed that we did it safe. We are both members our local EMS and it isn't alot of fun when you hear a call on the pager for yourself and it has happened.
Experience is still the best training ever but you have to start some where.

 

[WolverineMarine]

Sawchip..where r you located at? There are a couple formal training schools throughout the country...I attended ACRT's basic arborist school in Feb of 2008 and highly recommend it for a beginner new to the trade..they have a 5 day long school that costs about $750 but its worth every penny..

 

[sawchip]

Sawchip..where r you located at? There are a couple formal training schools throughout the country...I attended ACRT's basic arborist school in Feb of 2008 and highly recommend it for a beginner new to the trade..they have a 5 day long school that costs about $750 but its worth every penny..

im in southern maine. and Semper Fi!

 

[Ekka]

No rope = no means of rapid descent.

Take the money you have allocated for this kit and get some climbing training from an accredited trainer. After that you will be better prepared to select the right kit for the work you wish to do. Stay low and slow mate.

Are Jims Trees boot camps AQF accredited and TAA4014 qualified trainers with the capacity to assess and certify via an RTO? opcorn:

Come to think of it I dont think you have much in certs so who are you to give advice?

 

[outofmytree]

Are Jims Trees boot camps AQF accredited and TAA4014 qualified trainers with the capacity to assess and certify via an RTO? opcorn:

Come to think of it I dont think you have much in certs so who are you to give advice?

I appear to have a stalker....

Has Ekkaworld become boring for you?