Husky 346XP Carb Adjustment

[ky-homelite]

Hi guys,

I just did my first muffler mod on my Husky 346XP E-Tech. I did a 1/2" hole through the muffler bracket and the front of the muffler. I don't know if i should have or not, but I enlarged some of the holes in the baffle that's inside the muffler as well. Check the thread below and if you see Rspike's pictures of his Husky's, mine looks like his 346 E-Tech muffler mod.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36541&highlight=muffler+modification

While I was at it, I clipped off the plastic adjustment tabs on the carb adjustment screws as well. What is a good starting point to set the carb screws at? 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated then fine tune from there?

Thanks fellas

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Try it where you have it and cut with it. If you hear the "2 stroking-4 stroking" you are there. Just double check your final setting with a tach to ensure that you aren't over the maximum RPM's.

 

[Rspike]

Hi guys,

I just did my first muffler mod on my Husky 346XP E-Tech. I did a 1/2" hole through the muffler bracket and the front of the muffler. I don't know if i should have or not, but I enlarged some of the holes in the baffle that's inside the muffler as well. Check the thread below and if you see Rspike's pictures of his Husky's, mine looks like his 346 E-Tech muffler mod.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36541&highlight=muffler+modification

While I was at it, I clipped off the plastic adjustment tabs on the carb adjustment screws as well. What is a good starting point to set the carb screws at? 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated then fine tune from there?

Thanks fellas

You'll be fine on your muffler mod. I put a 9/16' hole in the bracket and a 9/16" hole in the muffler and put in the spark screen between. As for the cat "baffle" in the muffler I took my O/A torch and cut it compleatly out. ( i wish the plasma cutter would of fit ) When i set my carbs after the muffler mod i had only had 2 tanks of gas run through it so i ran it the way it was stock and warmed it up a few cuts then put the tach on it and set the RPM's down to 12900 until i went through 10 tanks of gas. After the 10 tanks of gas i set the rpm's at 14000 . ( max is 14700 ) I will tach it at 14200 after 20 or more tanks of gas and leave it at that # from there on out. I dont want to tach my 346XP too high (within 20 tanks of new) because its more for limbing downed trees and small trunks saw and there are a lot of high revs the chainsaw is making when limbing.

 

[Cut4fun]

http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

 

[Haywire Haywood]

That madson's audio file doesn't do anything for me. If you don't know what you are listening for it's just so much noise. What does "two stroke four stroking" sound like? It's hard to translate an idea like that to text.

Ian

 

[Cut4fun]

4 stroking, when you go on the rich side and hear it burbbling, then back off to rpm's pick back up. (burbbling)< hmmm new word lol.

Read what madsens said about the high side wave file too.
What you'll hear this time is a saw being adjusted for full rev. After revving it up to max RPM and holding, we adjust the high speed rich, causing it to slow down and blubber, developing little power. Then we adjust it lean causing it to sound smoother and then it starts to starve, also creating little power and creating a LOT of heat. As we back it off from lean to rich again, the sound becomes slightly rougher. This slightly rough sound (or 4-cycle sound, as it's sometimes referred to) is where you want it to be. We like to say, as "close" to the smooth as you can get it, but still just slightly into the rough.

 

[ky-homelite]

Rspike: Did you feel much of a difference with the muffler modded? I've only put about 3 tanks of fuel through this saw and it's felt sluggish to me. I bought it used from a fellow that put probably another 3 tanks through it so I guess it's pretty much broken in. I'm hoping it'll pick up a little after opening up the muffler some.

Haywood : Yeah, I'm right there with you on the Madsens sound files. Setting the low jet I can hear pretty well and I'm sure I can replicate on my saw. The high jet, I know the burbbling that Cut4fun talks about. I guess when you set the saw to burbble out of wood, it should be fine when your bar is sunk into some wood. But you're right, you can't hardly hear anything in that sound file other than a saw revving like crazy. I'll be checking the plug every tank of fuel or so to make sure I have the carb setup right. Before I opened the muffler, the plug was a nice golden brown color, just hope I can set it up to run like that again without too much tinkering. Carbs are not my thing!

 

[Urbicide]

I would recommend getting a tach. Then you will know exactly how many RPM's the saw is turning. After you become familiar with how your saw sounds at the proper speed you can tune by ear if you need to. There are a bunch of tachs out there. Make sure, if you get one, that it has a high enough range for a chainsaw.

 

[Lakeside53]

Some saws, particuarly the later smaller saws, don't have a distinct "4-stroking" sound... and all you hear is a lowering on the pitch until it realy chokes.

If you mod the muffer, it might "4 stroke" BUT you may still be way over max rpm... Always check it with a tach if you run close to the edge..