Husky 357xp troubleshooting help needed

[in_a_silent_way]

OK more or less a rank amateur here, so if you enjoy rolling your eyes, this is your thread. My chainsaw experience is limited to the two new Stihls I have bought, that I took care of and maintained. They start and run when I ask them to. I have never had any trouble with them, and so when it comes to troubleshooting a problem, I am a babe in the woods.

Second owner husky 357xp. It was a saw I was half-heartedly looking for, and one showed up on the c-list for $80. Seller claimed he hadn't started it in 'a couple of years.' Three ounces of gas in the tank. Seller didn't inspire confidence that he could mix gas correctly. Saw is definitely used, but relatively clean, complete, and nothing appears seriously worn, although I haven't looked at the piston. I didn't get the feeling that the seller was trying to unload a lemon, mostly that he hadn't/wasn't going to use it.

I emptied the fuel tank. Filled with freshly mixed gas. Followed start procedure. I can start the saw reliably without much difficulty, but it won't stay running. Kills within a few seconds, whether I give it some throttle or not. I don't have a new air filter on hand, but cleaned the one that was in it. Tried to run it with air filter off - same result.

I assume the saw is not getting gas properly? Fuel line fouled? Fuel filter clogged? Carburetor needs rebuilding? None of the above? All of the above?
I realize troubleshooting a saw via e-mail is a bit ridiculous, but as this may be something simple, I am hoping someone could offer a list of things to run through, in order of how I should check them. I am not beyond taking it in for service, but would rather see if I can't get it on its feet myself, if for no other reason than I should know how.

Suggestions welcome...

 

[Zombiechopper]

step one would be carb kit, and reset the carb to factory specs.

For 80 bucks, you did well even if it needs a new top end. Well done!

 

[in_a_silent_way]

OK - carb kit. Three questions there..

1- for the 357xp is there a 'best' option for one? I see them in Bailey's but that is the extent of what I know.

2- is rebuilding one something I can expect to do? reasonably handy but again, my 2 stroke motor knowledge is sorely lacking - will a kit include instructions to get me through?

3- assuming the carb kit fixes the run problem, what happened to it that it now won't stay running, and what does the carb kit do to fix that?

And yes, for $80, I figured I couldn't go wrong. Even a blind squirrel...

 

[Shagbark]

If your tired of thinking about the possible problems with this saw I will, in my generosity, reimburse you for your troubles and expense to send it to me. You will have a return on your investment and it will be my problem.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[in_a_silent_way]

HHmmmm.... A very generous offer.... I had no idea how helpful a group this would be....

:greenchainsaw:

 

[HimWill]

It could be as simple as the fuel filter gummed up with old oil as the gas in the tank evaporated away.Let it set awhile (overnight will do) and see if the fresh mix dissolves some of the "goo".Start it up in the morning and see how it goes.As the fresh mix works it way through the system,sometimes the problems seem to solve themselves.Cheap enough to give it a try.

 

[272super]

You should pull the carb cover off and check the fuel inlet screen. It will be on the side where the fuel enters the carb. It may be clogged with sawdust or dirt. Maybe try to run it with partial choke to see if it will stay running. It you can get it to run,some of the issue may resolve themselves as new fuel flows through the system.

 

[nmurph]

silent, welcome to the board. you did well for $80, as mentioned by others. maybe i can help you with your saw. i have the same saw as well as a 359, which is identical, save the piston and cylinder. i have had several problems with the fuel/air system on these saws.
i would start by pulling the muffler and checking the condition of the piston, looking for scoring and carbon. a compression tester could also help assess its condition. there are several that can be had for about $30. i got my from autozone. if the cylinder seems to be ok you can now check the fuel system. likely if the saw has sat for an extended period of time it will be gummed inside. as others mentioned sometimes fresh fuel in the system can help disolve the gum. these saws also have a particular walbro that is prone to give you fits. both of my saws had them. i rebuilt the carbs and did not get any improvement. i replaced the walbro with a zama and solved the problem. a carb kit will cost you about $15. a zama carb will run about $50 from bailey's. it is a gamble; the choice is yours. the swap is a 30min job. there is also a intake boot clamp which may need to be replaced. if your saw has a plastic clamp you should consider replacing it. husky had a service bulletin and i had one of mine replaced at no cost. if your dealer doesn't want to work with you, it is a cheap and easy do-it-yourself project.
good luck and let us know if we can help.
Neal

 

[in_a_silent_way]

OK - that sounds like an even better 'first' first step. It is filled and sitting as we speak. I will see what happens in the morning.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

[parrisw]

I second checking the intake boot clamp, have a look at it, and if so take it to your dealer with the serial have then run it. If its plastic clamp, replace it right away.

 

[spike60]

"runs for just a few seconds" makes me think that it is only running on fuel from the few pulls of the rope with the choke on. Then it dies without accelerating at all. If this is the case, then the first place to look is a probable hole in the fuel line, or maybe the small pulse line has fallen off.

If you can't pressure test the fuel line, here's a quick way to check it: Dump the fuel out of the tank, and pull out the fuel line and see if the fuel filter "holds" some fuel. Pull the other end of the fuel line off of the carb, and watch if that releases the fuel in the filter/line. (Same idea as pulling a straw out of a glass of water with your finger over the top). If the fuel drains out AFTER you pull it off the carb, it is OK. But if it's drained BEFORE you take it off, then you've got a hole in it somewhere. Usually between where it comes out of the tank and where it comes up into the carb.

 

[roncoinc]

On my 357xp i found a hole in the fuel line as it makes a sharp bend into the airbox..replaced with a little longer piece and some slack at that point.

put a Zama carb on and all is well now...very easy to replace,takes a few minuets.do fuel line at same time,easy.

the carbs are all over the internet cheap..a couple years of bad gas sitting in that walbro that came with the saw could well foil a clean and rebuild kit.
price out a kit and a carb,,no doubt with the new carb..

ZAMA C3 EL42 is the one for the 357xp

1 1/4 turns out on each screw and it should start and run..

 

[SawTroll]

I'd start with the simplest thing first - changing out the fuel filter.

That was enough to liven up my 353 when it acted the same way after sitting a long time........

 

[in_a_silent_way]

OK, lots of great suggestions, and given this is a secondhand saw, I will probably use all of them.

Reroofing the house today, so in between dodging shingles, I topped off the gas and began to start it - nothing. Took off the cover and tried again. A small stream of gas sprayed on my hand as I applied pressure on the tank from my toe. I think that means the gas line might have a hole in it? :hmm3grin2orange: I guess it was so plugged up that it didn't leak yesterday, or I didn't notice it.


So, three more questions?

1-Given that the line is so bad, I gather it would be advisable to pay for shipping once and replace the carb while I am at it?? Fuel line, fuel filter, Zama carb, air filter, spark plug, and maybe ready to go??

2-Any tricks in replacing a fuel line/carb or is it self explanatory once I get into it??

3-intake boot clamp - that is part of the carb? - point me in the right direction of what I am looking for and maybe what it does - once I find it, if I need one, that is a part I would assume I need to get from my dealer?

Can't thank everyone enough so far. I guess much of what I should have been looking for is fairly common sense, but it is really helpful to have people willing to help who actually know what they are doing, as opposed to me just poking around and guessing.

I will probably start a new thread later on if I find that the piston needs attention. Removing the muffler is a matter of turning a few bolts? (I guess that is question # four)

 

[SawTroll]

....

3-intake boot clamp - that is part of the carb? - point me in the right direction of what I am looking for and maybe what it does - once I find it, if I need one, that is a part I would assume I need to get from my dealer?

.....

No, it is between the carb and the cylinder - but I don't think that is the issue - it sounds like the issue is fuel related, not air related.......

 

[parrisw]

No, it is between the carb and the cylinder - but I don't think that is the issue - it sounds like the issue is fuel related, not air related.......

Still don't rule it out!!!! It needs to be checked. Don't want it to cause a lean run down the road and seize the saw up.

 

[outdoortype]

Changing fuel line, use OEM and be patient....

Make sure that the new line is the same length as the original. Cut one end of the fuel line at an angle. Take a 2' peice of fishing line and stuff some of it down through the small hole were the fuel line exits the tank. Push the line out the hole for the fuel cap. Take the line and tie it to the angled end of the fuel line about 1"-2" back. Feed the fuel line into the tank as far as you can. When it stops, jerk with the fishing line.

I would order the OEM -not aftermarket for both the fuel line and the fuel filter. It's probably worth it to buy an extra one of each. I would also order an impulse line. All of these parts are not expensive but priceless to have on hand. Fuel will eventually deteriorate the rubber and cause problems.

The cheapest price I ever saw on the Zama replacement carb was $75, and most cases the dealers sells them for closer to $100. But don't panic, the walbro carb failures with this saw has usually been confined to the more recent saws. There are tons of older 357/359's that are still running great with the original walbro carbs.

 

[nmurph]

bailey's has the zama carb for this saw for $49.....just put one on last week.