Husky 359 Piece of........

[Noah]

........Junk.

As some of you know, I bought a Husky 359 from a local dealer as an all around the farm firewood, clearing saw and something to handle large downed hardwoods. [url]http://64.4.34.250/cgi-bin/l...om/showthread.php?threadid=14955&goto=newpost[/url]
After reading close to 80 pages of owners manual + safety manual, I tried to start the brand new saw. Right mix, followed directions to a "T", etc. It did not even fire. After checking the obvious, ie. plug wire on, etc., and pulling total of over 200 times, I took it back and asked if someone at the store could start it. After three guys and me couldn't get it to fire, and starting to look like a polish joke, I traded it in for another new one. They couldn't start it, but I got it to spudder a couple of times and run for a second. Ok. That was weak, but a wee encouraging. Next, I took it home thinking I'd try it out and if it didn't run right would get a refund under warantee time.

Got it running after pushing my cardiovascular system to the max for pulling w/ my right arm. It kept stalling at first, but after it finally warmed up, I was able to slice up some 2' walnut like a ginsu knife through a tin can.

Next day at the sight, I had another guy there to help w/a big old 3-4' black walnut. He had his tractor and truck my friend had his little stihl 026 w/ 14" bar and me, my husky. I tried to start it to no avail. I also noticed the top of the grip, (maybe the QS safety lever?) was broken off. I have no idea how since I did Not throw it like I first planned. After fulling w/that, getting a few sputters (firing a little at first), and getting a blood blister out of the deal, I used my back up. Borrowed my Dad's old 18" Sears brand, w/same size engine. New Stihl blade on it did fine at first cutting half way up from bottom of the walnut. Started on top and noticed that my full tank just ran out.?!?! What the ?!!! It sprung a LEAK! The Bar was being lubed by gasoline pouring from a hole in the tank! The chain aparently loosened from a snug start on the first cut, or the thin bar flexed enough to cut a hole in the tank.

I thought those light, and I mean LIGHT, saws were magneseum... I was wondering why I wasn't holding a flamethrower. One spark and that walnut and ol' Noah would've been firewood.

Next was the 026. I hate to use someone elses equiptment, but my friend wanted me to fininsh the log w/it and the other guy w/the movers wanted to go home. I fired it up and it started OK, but through the loose chain as soon as it could. Now the chain doesn';t fit very well on the bar. It sticks. Could this be from getting too hot?

I still appreciate the recommendation and info from here before I got it. I don't think this saw reflects the whole company, or they'd be out of business. Maybe a defective lot?

Anyhow, I took the husky back for a refund. Now I need something more rugged and reliable in the same balpark of price and at least as powerful. I'll get my dad's saw fixed for a back up, but it doesn't have the power of the huskey while the husky was running, in spite of the same displacement. Any suggestions?

Best regards,

Noah

 

[Newfie]

Find a new dealer for starters. The rest will take care of itself.

 

[glens]

Originally posted by Noah
Next was the 026 ... it started OK, but through the loose chain as soon as it could. Now the chain doesn';t fit very well on the bar. It sticks. Could this be from getting too hot?

It sticks (now) most likely because of burrs on the drive tangs which it picked up when it was thrown.&nbsp; You always want to remove the chain and, grasping the drive tangs lightly with your thumb and fingertip, pull the chain backwards, feeling for such burrs.&nbsp; You want to remove any you find with a flat file <i>before</i> you re-install the chain.&nbsp; If you run it with the burrs, you'll FUBAR the bar groove.

I still appreciate the recommendation and info from here before I got it. I don't think this saw reflects the whole company, or they'd be out of business. Maybe a defective lot?

Most likely has to do with the box store you were dealing with.

I need something more rugged and reliable in the same balpark of price and at least as powerful. ... Any suggestions?

The Stihl MS361 would've been my first choice.

Glen

 

[Ryan Willock]

I second Glens. It sounds like you bought the husky from lowes. If so what did you expect? They norrmally have complete idiots assembling things for them.

 

[Crofter]

Unfortunately most new users are not prepared for what they need to know for any chance of reasonable success. Pulling hundreds of times should never be necessary. Experience would tell you to do some quick checks to eliminate the obvious and know whether it was go or not. Same with cutting problems. It is pretty hard to bring someone up to speed in a day. Experienced users take a lot of their accumulated knowledge for granted and get a bit disgusted with the problems new users have. Rocky is not far wrong in saying it takes a year befor you learn how to keep your chain out of the dirt and to be able to maintain a crackerjack sharp saw. Nothing beats having someone with experience to get you going. I think there really could be more comprehensive instruction with new saws but guess they think it might scare away sales if they make it seem any more complicated than opening a box of beer or lighting a barbecue.

Frank

 

[Ryan Willock]

Frank, let me see if I get this.... You mean I have to actually mix gas AND oil???? I thought thats way you had a tank for oil and a tank for gas!!!???

 

[stihltech]

instructions

You mean that few minutes we take with every customer on how to choose , operate and maintain the saw still has some worth?

Find a good dealer, it will make the next saw much easier to use.

 

[trimmmed]

Heya, save your cardiovascular system and use the decomp button

Your local dealer let you return a saw and sent you out with the replacement saw not working, and you took it?

One more, musta been tough cutting that 3'- 4' walnut with that 14" bar, what'd look like when you were thru?

 

[Noah]

Trimmed,
I DID use the decomp button. I got most of that walnut w/the sears, which had an 18" bar. The guy helping me move it had a Farm Boss and finished it off. If he hadn't, would have one way or another. Got the walnut cut though. .....Next step was to get out the wood chucks.
This Husky had a chance. After figuring that the dealer knew even less about saws than me, I decided to give it a fair chance before giving up on a new Husky. I did check everything I knew it could've been and eliminated posibilities. Sure someone more experienced "Might" have helped, but nobody was available but me. Did my best and offer no apologies to anyone. Plus, I had a job the next day and didn't have any other options on short notice than the Sears.

Glens & Stihltech,
I got the same advice from someone else here locally. My friend wanted to replace the bar. He's had the saw for at least 15 years. I'm going to take your advice. After checking it out those burrs, you're right. They're the problem alright.

Ryan,
The saw was NIB, that's IN BOX. You're probably right about the salesmen, but I have no reason to believe that it was not already assembled at the factory. Keep in mind that the QS palm switch was also broken after one use. It might have been a bad lot, or just that fragile.

Hey Rocky,
Wanna watch me pull a Stihl salesman out of my hat? Nothing up my sleeve. Presto, two salemen at a big stihl dealership called it that too. Maybe I should have gotten a translator from the foreign language department at the university to translate. But guess what? I knew what they were talking about, and they knew what I was talking about, and BTW, so do the rest of the guys on this thread.
No kidding? It's REALLY called a "chain"?
I've used a handful chainsaws from time to time, but yeah, I'd consider myself a newbe too. That's why I'm taking time with you guys on this forum. That's why I've asked two experienced guys nearby to show me proper technique w/big wood, I'm sorry, those things w/green things hanging from them.....What are they called?.........Trees?
I agree that chainsaw safety is a must. There were 2 firefighters w/their dept. helping clear 5 trees that came down on my road. I'm surprised that nobody got hurt. Anyhow, you can take your nuts and go back into that hole in the tree.

Glens,

I was looking at the specs on the Stihl 361. Don't have it in front of me, but if I remember right it was the same 59cc engine as the 310, but it was a little more powerful for some reason. It was also close to a pound lighter if specs were correct. Are these the reasons that you'd go w/this model over the others? I really like it and would like to go w/that one, but there was a big price difference w/the 361 over the the 310 at my local dealership, so if you can justify it to me, I'm more likely to get it. Also keeping my eyes open for a used one. Just last week there was an ad in a free paper for a 046 at $150 !!! Missed the buy by 2 hours


Thanks,

Noah

 

[cbfarmall]

The 361 is most certainly NOT the same motor as a 310. The fact that the cc's are the same is a coincidence. Can't comment on the qualitative differences between the two, but the 361 is a pro saw while the the 310 is built on a 029/039 chassis.

Search for either saw on this board. You'll find the 361 is well reviwed and the 310 isn't.

Chris B.

 

[glens]

Hi Noah.

So was the flood really worldwide or just local?

Back to the future...&nbsp;

If your friend's bar was relatively new it should probably be okay if you just give him a few bucks toward it.&nbsp; Otherwise, you probably ran it far less with an unfixed thrown chain than he has, so a couple bucks toward it should be sufficient.&nbsp; Spending a couple of minutes with a flat file on the affected drivers would be worth a couple of bucks too if you didn't already (or plan to) do it.

The 310 and 361 have extremely little in common.&nbsp; The 310 type of saw is not generally well-liked on this board.&nbsp; It's built with modular architecture which is different from the "pro" designs (which the Husky 359 more closely shares).&nbsp; The 361 recently replaced the 036/360 "professional" model as an update to it so you'll not find a "good" used one for sale any time soon, I'd guess.&nbsp; I have an 036 and apart from some old (Textron) Homelites that long ago became unreliable it was my only saw for a while.&nbsp; It's a little big, perhaps, for the small stuff and a little small for the big stuff, but for a one-nice-saw the size is perfect.&nbsp; It will pull a 24" bar in hardwood if you're not in a hurry, etc.

I've not yet had a chance to run an MS361 in the wood, but have idled and blipped the throttle on one at the local shop.&nbsp; In a side-by-side comparison it feels to be about the same weight as (possibly a tiny tad heavier than) my 036.&nbsp; There's no comparison while cutting air; the new saw is much silkier.&nbsp; But I have no complaints with mine in the wood, where it smoothes right out and feels really no different to me in terms of vibration than similar Husky/Jred saws I've run right alongside it, short term.

The new incarnation is really not proven yet, but I have no doubts it'll be a winner.&nbsp; If I were a wealthy man I'd buy one and spend some time making direct comparison between them just to know and be able to report on it.&nbsp; I suspect some of the softer mount components will be revised before too much time passes.

Do you need one over an MS310?&nbsp; Only you can know that.&nbsp; The 310 is really comparable to the 359 you tried in terms of weight/power.&nbsp; That Husky has better potential for major repair or modification than that Stihl.&nbsp; In my experience, the Husky is overpriced (as they are in general), though occasionally it can be found on sale for near $400.&nbsp; The MS310 really could use a compression release or at least, spending an extra 20 bucks or whatever, the better starter handle installed.

I'd hate being in a cost-conscious position of buying a new saw from among the many good choices available right now.&nbsp; Have fun and good luck!

Glen