Husky 359 Zama C3-EL42 question

[Armosh]

I picked up a new to me 359 with a knockoff Zama carb that has 2 fuel nipples. Is that correct?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

@SawTroll posted this info on my CR website long ago.

SB, 357 XP, 359, Introduction of new carburetor for better idling stability,
2008-10

To achieve better idling quality, a new carburetor has been introduced in the production. The new name of the carburetor is Zama C3-EL42, replacing Walbro HDA199A/B and HDA191A.

New part number for the carb is 505203001.

Also, requires a different flange, part number 503928502.

Introduced from serial numbers:
357XP 083800001
359 084500001

 

[Armosh]

@SawTroll posted this info on my CR website long ago.

SB, 357 XP, 359, Introduction of new carburetor for better idling stability,
2008-10

To achieve better idling quality, a new carburetor has been introduced in the production. The new name of the carburetor is Zama C3-EL42, replacing Walbro HDA199A/B and HDA191A.

New part number for the carb is 505203001.

Also, requires a different flange, part number 503928502.

Introduced from serial numbers:
357XP 083800001
359 084500001

Thanks for the info. To be more clear I meant will the saw run correctly with the 1 unused fuel nipple? It came to me with a bad impulse so it would not start.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Please- show us photographs of the two fuel nipples!
@HarleyT will- if you do not!

You kind of answered your own question, saw came to you with a bad impulse and will not run. One nipple on the side feeds fuel to the carb- the other one on the top cover feeds impulse via the impulse tube line to the pump diaphragm of the carb to pump fuel through the carb body on a "two nipple" carb.
The 359 impulses out of the case with an exterior tube line that does a quick 180 degree bend and goes back into the intake manifold to impulse the carb via internal drillings much like the 2## series Husqvarna's.
I would suggest your knock off carb is not correct as such, will require a new line from the impulse drain of the cylinder/crankcase to the 2nd pump side nipple, a new blank un nippled top cover- or thrown in the bin and a new proper Zama replacement for the 357/359 used in its place.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Willing to bet you got a 359 with a copy of a 362 carb jammed on to it? Need photos to confirm, but they have the two nipple thing going on out of the same side of the carb body.

 

[Armosh]

Willing to bet you got a 359 with a copy of a 362 carb jammed on to it? Need photos to confirm, but they have the two nipple thing going on out of the same side of the carb body.

This carb has the two nipples on opposite sides. Someone has definitely has had it apart before because it has a stuffer crank in it. I can't do a pic right now because I'm working. As far as the impulse line goes; it's cracked severely. I also got the updated flange and metal clamp for the intake. Going to deep six the knockoff carb I think anyways. It's definitely the wrong one. I do have the original walbro carb it came with too.

 

[HarleyT]

For consistency I googled
"2 nippled knockoff", and came up with this..

 

[user 74409]

Sound like it was knock off of EL-32 used on later 340/345/350/353/346xp models that had primer/purge bulb. The second nipple was connected to primer/purge bulb. If you plug second nipple so it is air tight, the carburetor will work okay. If you don't plug, the carburetor will suck air and you will have a bad day. Genuine EL-42 has one fuel inlet nipple.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I'm starting have nipple confusion..

 

[Armosh]

Sound like it was knock off of EL-32 used on later 340/345/350/353/346xp models that had primer/purge bulb. The second nipple was connected to primer/purge bulb. If you plug second nipple so it is air tight, the carburetor will work okay. If you don't plug, the carburetor will suck air and you will have a bad day. Genuine EL-42 has one fuel inlet nipple.

Here is a picture. The extra fuel line/nipple is on the right of the pic. The carb has no markings of any sort anywhere on it, no numbers, letters, nothing.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Here is a picture. The extra fuel line/nipple is on the right of the pic. The carb has no markings of any sort anywhere on it, no numbers, letters, n

I think I've seen both kinds on ebay, I think mine has only one outlet. Just look at the pictures before you buy, what you see is (usually) what you get.
I just looked up my history of purchases and, yes, it only has one fuel inlet, ad says it's made for 346, 353,357,359. It does fine on my Husqvarna 359 but I think I did remove the limiters.

 

[Armosh]

I think I've seen both kinds on ebay, I think mine has only one outlet. Just look at the pictures before you buy, what you see is (usually) what you get.
I just looked up my history of purchases and, yes, it only has one fuel inlet, ad says it's made for 346, 353,357,359. It does fine on my Husqvarna 359 but I think I did remove the limiters.

I didn't buy the carb. It came on the saw. I just thought it looked off. Thanks for the info guys

 

[Armosh]

Got the 359 back together using the original Walbro carb. Ended up doing a base gasket delete because I ruined the gasket while giving myself an aneurysm fighting with the updated intake clamp lol. It started on the third pull and seems to run awesome. Tomorrow will fine tune the carb and get the bar and chain back on it. Next step is a modded muffler for it and then I have a big bore Meteor piston and cylinder kit waiting for my Husky 570.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Some of the el cheapo non-cat mufflers on 'the bay are about as empty as a modded muffler. I bought one to replace the cat on my 359 and didn't bother to mod it..

 

[Lawless]

I replaced the carb for a time on my 359 until I could repair the original (a video on here a while back detailed modding the factory carb) and the ads on Amazon said either 1 nipple or 2. There must be some saws with a 2 nipple carb.

 

[Armosh]

I replaced the carb for a time on my 359 until I could repair the original (a video on here a while back detailed modding the factory carb) and the ads on Amazon said either 1 nipple or 2. There must be some saws with a 2 nipple carb.

My best guess is the two nipple carb is supposed to have a primer bulb instead of the flat cover and the other nipple is the return line. Would probably work if I plugged the other nipple but since it's a chineseum carb I just put the original Walbro back on and it runs fine. Throttle response is amazing! I'm used to cheap Craftsman chainsaws, never had a Husky before now.

 

[Lawless]

My best guess is the two nipple carb is supposed to have a primer bulb instead of the flat cover and the other nipple is the return line. Would probably work if I plugged the other nipple but since it's a chineseum carb I just put the original Walbro back on and it runs fine. Throttle response is amazing! I'm used to cheap Craftsman chainsaws, never had a Husky before now.

Make sure the diaphragm is colored blue tan, not blue. Those saws don’t idle well and low end response can suffer. Also, drill a hole in the carb plate, the factory path to vent it is problematic.

Another overlooked thing is rotten fuel line. I replaced mine recently due to this and it happened between uses. Ran great and a month later wouldn’t run at all.

Edited to add: go easy on the carb bolts. They thread into the plastic flange (same piece your screwdriver goes through to adjust the carb) and you can strip it easily. I replaced this too once but my carb has been off several times over the time I have had the saw. It never ran worth a **** til I drilled the plate and put in the blue tan diaphragm.

Wish I could find the video, it was by treemonkey I believe.

 

[Lawless]

Found it

 

[huskihl]

Make sure the diaphragm is colored blue. If not, those saws don’t idle well and low end response can suffer. Also, drill a hole in the carb plate, the factory path to vent it is problematic.

Another overlooked thing is rotten fuel line. I replaced mine recently due to this and it happened between uses. Ran great and a month later wouldn’t run at all.

Edited to add: go easy on the carb bolts. They thread into the plastic flange (same piece your screwdriver goes through to adjust the carb) and you can strip it easily. I replaced this too once but my carb has been off several times over the time I have had the saw. It never ran worth a $#@& til I drilled the plate and put in the blue diaphragm.
Wish I could find the video, it was by treemonkey I believe.

You want to use the tan pump diaphragm, not the blue. The blue is a bit stiff for the weak impulse system

 

[Lawless]

You want to use the tan pump diaphragm, not the blue. The blue is a bit stiff for the weak impulse system

Got that backwards, I remember now and thanks.