Husky 45 No Start Questions

[CalebD]

Hi,

I'm new around here, but it looks like there are a lot of knowledgeable people here so I'm hoping someone can help me.

I've got a Husqvarana 45 that I've had for a about 10 years. It generally gets a small amount of use each year, and it's given me no trouble until now. It didn't get any use last year so it's sat now for almost 2 years unused in my garage. When it was put away all the gas was run out of it.

I put new fuel (mixed 50:1) and tried to start it yesterday -but it wouldn't start.
I pulled the start plug and it was obviously flood. I checked for spark, and couldn't see any - however trying to pull the cord and watch for spark at the same time was difficult at best. I let it dry out and tried a new spark plug and still have a no start.

I'm guessing it's the ignition module -I'll pull the switch lead tonight to make sure that's not the problem.

Now a few questions:

1) What's the trick for checking for spark and pulling the cord at the same time - or do I need to get my wife involved?

2) Assuming no spark, after pulling the switch lead off the ignition module is there anything else you would check before replacing the ignition module?

3) Is replacing the ignition module as easy as unscrewing the bolts that hold it on and replacing it - with the correct gap or is there more to it than that?

4) Can I set the gap with a feeler gauge - or is that not accurate enough?


Thanks for any help.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Hi, CalebD, welcome to the sight! I'm not the pro some of these guys are and I'm sure they'll chime in (right, guys?) I went through this the other day with these guys and they pulled me through! Here's what I'll pass along to you. It can be difficult to properly ground the plug well enough on a plastic case saw to see a spark. I would try clipping the plug to a cylinder fin to be sure you're grounded. To troubleshoot the spark plug, I have also removed it, stuck a scredriver into the plug boot and pulled it over to FEEL the spark. All these things have worked pretty well for me in the past. I will say that I'm surprised at how many spark plugs actually fail... I've found three this year!

You'll probably get a few answers on the coil. I am not familiar with the 45, but if it is typical Husqvarna, it should only require minor disassembly to remove it. The coil itself is easy, it can sometime be a small headache to extricate the wiring, depending on the model.

I have personally just used a business card or the like to set the gap in the coil. Just don't let the coil touch anywhere. I'm certain that someone will recommend that you use a gauge because it is the right way to do it. However, my saws have always run fine.

As far as your overall problem, I suppose that your coil can go bad from just sitting there.. after ten years, these things really don't need an excuse to break, I suppose. In my opinion, coils seem to fail more during use. I am more inclined to think you may have fuel system problems. Just because you store your saw correctly (drained) doesn't make you impervious to dried mix in the carb, it just reduces the possibility. If it were me, I'd remove the fuel line, pull the plug and pull the saw over a bunch of time to clear it... maybe let it sit for half a day. Replace the plug, then put about a half a teaspoon of mix down the carb throat while holding the throttle down so it gets into the cylinder. Try to start it and if it pops for you even just a little, you've pretty much detemined that spark is not your problem. The good news then is that fuel system work is pretty easy and there are plenty of threads here to help. Keep us posted!!

 

[buck futter]

check the flywheel/ ignition gap and a business card or matchbook cover will work well, You can test the spark plug on something that runs like you lawnmower for example.

make the metal the current path not your body.

 

[SawTroll]

Here is a Workshop manual, that cover the 45.

 

[CalebD]

Thanks for the pointers so far.

I was able to get a spark today with the plug clipped to the fins, so it's not the ignition.

I'm definately getting lots of fuel, to the point of flooding after a few pulls. But I get no poping at all. Is it time to pull and clean the carb or is there anything else I should check first?

Any ideas on how to pull the carb on this saw, the workshop manual isn't clear & the screws look hard to get at without dismantling a good chunk of the saw.

Thanks again

 

[huskydave]

I would say needle may be stuck open and it is letting too much fuel in. Most chainsaw carbs are easy enough to get off but some are a pain, tight to work on. Carb kits are inexpensive and not to hard to install if you take your time and make sure the order of assembly reflects reverse order of dissasembly.

 

[Pilsnaman]

If you are getting spark then try putting a few drops of mixed gas into the carb, only a very very small amount. See if it kicks over or does nothing. That would be a good indicator fuel problems or not. Also, you may just have some gunk buildup on the carb needles. Carefully unscrew them and clean them off with a clean rag. Then spray a little carb cleaner into the holes, they are small so it doesn't take much. Wait for the carb cleaner to dry and replace the needles. When doing that just slowly screw them in until they bottom out, being careful not to screw them in too tight as they just need to barely touch. Then unscrew them around one turn out and give it a yank, it may need more like 1.25 turns out but other guys here will know that info. Just a thought.