Husky 45 no start

[jonesec]

I picked up a husky 45 last summer at a garage sale. Seems to have good compression and does have spark. I couldn't get it running last fall, but finally got around to putting a carb kit in, changing the intake boot and impulse tube. I set the H and L needles at 1 turn out each. The idle stop just starts to crack the butterfly. After all this work, it still won't start.

I got it to fire a little, but it would never accelerate or run for any length of time. I guess my question is where to go next. Crank seals? Check valve in the carb? Weak spark? I have also replaced the fuel lines, fuel filter and the air filter. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I don't know a whole lot about this saw, but it seems to be well made and engineered, and for the most part in good condition. Hopefully I will be able to get it running and useable for firewood cutting this spring.

 

[dtnodya]

I'm no pro and use this site to learn ... but I would try turning the L needle out a little more and see what it does. To start, make sure your gas is good and all the basics are covered then play with the L needle some.

 

[Highclimber OR]

How much time do you got in this baby? A Husky is a good saw and all, but I would limit myself on the amount of time I was putting into it. If it were me I would maybe put a little more time in it, then I would move on and buy a new saw.

 

[Highclimber OR]

with saws you get what you pay for. I generally stick with Stihl.:greenchainsaw:

 

[HiOctane]

Try to eliminate problems.Begin by removing the spark plug and put a bit of gas by the hole,install the spark and give it few pulls.If it doesnt start, you are left with either ignition problem or compression .If she starts with the gas you put ,and run only for few seconds ,then its a fuel problem related.Are you sure your new boot is well installed,that the "lip" is is not "kinked" creating an air leak.Your intake gasket does match hole in the plastic flange ?The crank seals,even leaking a bit wont stop your saw from starting,so forget them for the moment.

 

[Hard Knocks]

The first thing that I would do is pull the muffler and inspect the piston. It is possible for a saw to feel like it has good compression and still have the exhaust side of the piston melted down or smudged. HiOctane gives you good advise on troubleshooting. You need to have proper ignition, compression, and carburetion to run.

 

[PES+]

The first thing that I would do is pull the muffler and inspect the piston. It is possible for a saw to feel like it has good compression and still have the exhaust side of the piston melted down or smudged. HiOctane gives you good advise on troubleshooting. You need to have proper ignition, compression, and carburetion to run.

Absolutely......we have all at one time or another been fooled by the feel of the compression by pulling the rope. Muffler removal will tell the story

 

[Kenskip1]

Johnsec,First off welcome to the forum.As to the saw, I would check for a clogged gas filter. Next in line would be a cracked of kinked gas line.With the gas line off the carb, are you able to get air to blow back into the gas tank?If not a bad filter may be the culprit.(loosen the gas cap) Like the other said, I would turn the low speed screw, (The one closet to the cylinder) out another quarter turn, and ditto to the high speed. Is the choke closing all the way?Ken

 

[buck futter]

a little quicker

just pull the spark plug and look toward the exhaust side if the cyl wall is shiny with no deposits you are probably good although the ring could be bad enough to not want to run the saw. I have a 266 xp like this, I think if it gets a new rig it will run.


I want you to listen to this turn the T which controls the throttle plate, in two full turns. the chain will likely turn but you will be able to adjust the L in and out to find the max speed and then turn it out( richer) 1/8 - 1/16 of a turn more. also make sure the gas is fresh, within a month and a teaspoon full of gas in the spark plug hole won't hurt, good luck.

 

[jonesec]

Thanks for all the input. I don't have a great deal of money in this saw, so if it doesn't work I'll sell it for parts. But I still could use a saw this size.

As for things I've done, all fuel and vent lines have been replaced, as has the fuel and air filters. The tank vent check vent does operate correctly. I replaced the boot and impulse tube. From the looks of things on the carb side of the piston, it looks pretty good. I'll pull the muffler and take a look. I did this last summer to make sure it was clean, and thought it looked pretty good.

The saw does occasionally fire, but it could be from the priming. I'm thinking I need to pull the carb and take a look at the welch plug I put in. I think it's flooding, possibly a leak there. Or it could be a bad check valve. I'll check everything and pressure test when I get some time.

Before I do that, I'll check the coil adjustments and replace the wire and boot. However, it may be some time before I get to it. I had a little extra time this weekend, and thought I'd get at least one of my saws going. Between this Husky and an ancient Pioneer 620, I feel like my arm is going to fall off from pulling so many times.

I would like to thank everyone for your input.

E. C. Jones

 

[buck futter]

Well another way of looking at it is, if you don't have a lot into it take it to a shop. lets say the shop owner was someone that had been around the block once or twice like pest. he may be able to diagnose it easily or have some parts that could be swapped for testing. Sometimes having a carb that can be swapped is a blessing in and of itself. You would make a friend and you may end up with a running saw for under 100 bucks.

just a thought.

I hate see a saw parted out when it could be a useful runner.

 

[troutfisher]

Check the muffler for a plugged spark arrestor screen.

 

[stihl025]

How old is the spark plug? Did you replace it with an NGK just for the heck of it when you first got it?