Husky Newbie

[River Hill]

I have only cut firewood a few times in my life and I have just found this site. What a wealth of information. I have done some reading and I am sure I could read for hours and hours. I do have a few quick questions and I am sure they have been covered before, but I am looking for some quick advice. I plan on cutting approx 3 to 5 cords of firewood each season. I just purchased 5 acres of land in VA that I am in the process of building a house on and have a geat deal of oak wood stacked from the area we cleared for the house site and drain field. I would guess the largest diameter tree we have is 24" and most being around 15". I am sure once I have these trees cut up and split, I will have the trees I need to cut up that fall each year from storms. I want to purchase a Husky for sure, but I am not sure which one would best suit my needs. From my intial research I was thinking of the 55R with a 20" bar, but I know many of you are happy with the 357xp and the 372xp. Do you think these would be overkill for my needs? Are there any other models that would fit my needs better? If I were to purchase the 357xp or the 372xp, should I get a larger bar than 20"?

Once I have my saw picked out, what is the best method for sharpening the blades? I plan on doing it myself if possible. What brand of chains would you but for spares?

Now it comes time to split the wood. If I plan on doing it by hand I was thinking of a Maul like a splitzall or something else if someone has a better choice? If I was thinking of purchasing a small gas powered splitter what would you purschase?

I have seen a tool for rolling logs over or rasing them off the ground so you don't cut into the dirt. Do you know what these are called and where I can purchase one?

Thank you in advance for answering my questions.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Hold on there River Hill,
1) Welcome to the forum! We are not responsible for any growing addictions for saws which you may develop while here!
2) Before you cut all that oak up into firewood, have you considered having someone come out with a portable mill and slice at least the best of it up to use in construction of your new house? This would be Very High on my priority list and it's not very expensive.
3) Seek and you will find, knock and it shall be opened. (keep searching the archives) all these topics have been discussed many times.
4) Saw: What kind of budget are you on and how fast do you want to cut?

Rob

 

[River Hill]

Thank you for the welcome. I am already done the framing stage and now I am working on the drywall, but that would have been a good idea. I would like to get cutting and splitting as soon as possible. I am pretty open for the budget on a saw. I just want something that will last me and that is not to small but now way overkill. The saw is my first priority.

 

[geofore]

20" bar

The 372xp with a 20" bar is all the saw you'll need and more. Until you are into trees over 36"- 48" diameter a 20" bar will do if you know how to run it. Sounds like the saw bug is biting you too. The 55R will do and is a good saw for what you say you are going to do but the 372xp is more power and better antivibe. What are you willing to spend and more to the point can you run a saw without hurting yourself. You need to get some PPE to go with that saw. The bug has bit another one.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Some oak panneling would sure make a nice change from drywall on a few walls, but forge on. I suggest that you go with the 357xp, open up the muffler to get good power out and a cooler running saw. This is a pro saw and should last someone like you a life time.

 

[Drew78]

River Hill-

Welcome!!! Lots of questions eh? Been there myself and as you have see so far there are a lot of folks on this site that can be a wealth of information on a number of topics. Also make sure you use the "search" tool. This site has a huge archive of older threads where you can find some very in-depth answers. Lets answer some of these questions....Keep in mind that I own 2 Stihls, but came this close to buying a 372 xp, but alas I have NO dealers in my area that I would even trust mixing the gas for the saw and an awsome local Stihl guy. Enough of that...

If it is within your budget, I and you definatly want Husky, go with the 372xp. A HIGHLY acclaimed saw in their lineup! It is supposed to have great vibe controll, lightweight, and have hell for power! Plus there are some fellas on this site that can make that particular saw get up and cut the wood itself with minimal effort from the opperator!!!

A 20" bar, I find, to be about perfect for an all around size. I am thinking about getting a 24" bar for my 460 MAG sometime, but that saw gets HEAVY with that bar on it. I dont think it would be overkill, but its up to you.

To sharpen, start by hand filing. I just started and it is a bit of a pain in the a$$ to ge the hang of it. Husky makes a "roller guide" that simplifies the situation with the correct file size depending on the pitch of the chain on your saw, probably 3/8" with a 20" 372xp. Again there is a MASSIVE ammount of info on "sharpeining" in the archives.

Look at "Northern Tool" for the cant hook, the tool that allows you to roll logs off the ground to cut them. They work well and can also have a piece removed to allow you to move logs on the ground, kind of a 2 in one tool. I think they want about $35.00 list.

Sorry for the long post, hope it helped, and dont be afraid to ask questions, just remember to search first then follow up with a post to clarify if your question isnt answered.

-Drew

 

[glens]

River,

Think in terms of (partially?) trimming your house and then reconsider the suggestion to get some of it milled.

If you must go with Husky I'd say look into the 359 with an 18 or 20 inch bar.

Every one of those topics has been thoroughly discussed at least once that I can recall.  The site search engine works quite well.

Glen

 

[Weatherby]

Originally posted by glens

If you must go with Husky

He had to say it didnt he?

Drew what you are refering to I believe, is a timberjack, and I find the handle is a little short to get full use as a cant hook.

I have a 372xp with a 20" bar and its a great saw. If you buy it, it will serve all your needs. Unless you get the bug.

 

[Drew78]

Weatherby-

That it. I couldnt think of the exact name and the only thing that came into my head was cant hook. Thanks for the clarification.

By the way you own any Weatherb's ? Possibly Orions?

-Dreew

 

[glens]

Rob,

A couple of your recent posts might lead me to believe we weren't friends.&nbsp; "Had to say it", didn't I?&nbsp; River's the one who said it:&nbsp; "<i>I want to purchase a Husky for sure</i>".&nbsp; I was simply affirming the statement.

You'll note I didn't try to change anyone's mind about it, either.&nbsp; Like I've said many times before, if there were <i>any</i> Husky dealers in my area and if I'd ever seen them being used (either professionally or occasionally) or especially, knew someone (I might cut with) who did, I'd be perfectly willing to try one.&nbsp; In fact, I'd really like to, but don't want to buy one merely to make a few test cuts.&nbsp; As it just so happens, I was in a very small shop yesterday, near where I'm working this summer, where the owner kindly allowed me to view a few in various stages of dis/re-assembly.

Back to the thread.

One thing I think "we" need to keep in mind is that River has stated he(?) wants just one saw (at least to start).&nbsp; Another thing is that he's not going to be cutting just the stems and leaving a bunch of slash laying in the woods like so many little tornados have passed through.&nbsp; And since he probably doesn't have a chipper he'll be sawing up the limbs into pieces which can be managed into the fire pile.&nbsp; A 55R is probably just a mite too small for the bigger stuff, and the 372 is undoubtedly a few mites too big for the smaller stuff.&nbsp; The 359 will probably outcut the 357XP in his hands, at least for a while - maybe forever.&nbsp; And although they both might still be too heavy to do very much limb-munching at a time, they'd be a bit safer when so used.&nbsp; Hence my recommendation.&nbsp; It probably wasn't apparent from my first post that I'd considered those points before saying what I'd said.

Glen

 

[Weatherby]

Drew,

I dont own any weatherby's at the moment, because every time I finally get close to having the money, I buy another chinsaw. I attached a picture of a few of my guns, nothing special.

Glen,

I was just kidding with you. I have no problems with anyone here on the forum. You just seem more pro stihl. No harm intended.

Rob

 

[Oregon_Rob]

1300

Is that a Winchester 1300? I really like mine, killed a lot of ducks too!

 

[Drew78]

Weatherby,

Nice lookin umm... "chainsaws" ya got there. I have 4 of the same you show in your pic plus a number of "hand held modles"
How do you like that BOSS system?
-Drew

 

[Newfie]

"Some oak panneling would sure make a nice change from drywall on a few walls"

Sure would if it were kiln dried. Air-dried or green will cause all kinds of problems whether it be paneling or trim, unless you like the bows, twists and splits.

372 is probably overkill, but certainly worth the extra $$ if you are at all considering the 357. I think it is better balanced than the 357. But in the end I think a saw like the 55 or the 353 will suit your needs just fine.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi River Hill, here is what I would do if I were in your shoes. I'd buy a 357 with a 16" bar and 73LG chain, then with your woodlot, treat it like your "little bit of heaven", and cut only low grade trees, leaving the better crop trees. In fact, I would manicure the thing. Putting some butt logs into boards is a good idea, but gaurd that lil microcosm jealously.
John

 

[Gypo Logger]

Sorry, I forgot the related attachment.
John

My Piney Wood

I have a tiny piney wood;
my trees are only fifty,
Yet give me shade and solitude
For they are thick and thrifty.
And every day to me they fling
With largess undenying,
Fat cones to make my kettle sing
And keep my pan a-frying.

Go buy yourself a piney wood
If you have gold for spending,
Where you can dream in mellow mood
With peace and joy unending;
Where you can cheerfully retreat
Beyond all churchly chiding,
And make yourself a temple sweet
Of rapturous abiding.

Oh silence has a secret voice
That claims the soul for portal,
And those who hear it may rejoice
Since they are more than mortal.
So sitting in my piney wood
When soft the owl is winging,
As still as Druid stone I brood . . .
For hark! the stars are singing.



--- Robert Service

 

[Gypo Logger]

What do you think of my Piney Wood now? You like that spring pole dont ya, and why wouldnt you?
Silver Blue (Rob) came to the woods today and took all the pictures.
Thanks Rob.
John

 

[River Hill]

Thank you guys for the advice. Now I am more confused than ever, but that's half the fun. I will keep reading and learning.

 

[WRW]

River Hill,
I think 3-5 cords a year is a little ambitious for a 5 acre lot. Initial thinning will provide more, but if you want to sustain & improve your lot you won't be able to harvest quite that much on a regular basis. You could find a neighbor that wants some trees removed to make up the difference. What part of Va. are you moving to?
For the size of wood that you will be cutting, 50-60 cc will be fine. I'd look at weight of the saw as a factor as much as power or cost. Trust me on that one.
As far as lifting the log off the ground, I wouldn't bother. You can usually find a clear spot along the length of the log to cut through, either from the top or the bottom depending on direction of stress...or use a wedge to prevent pinching. Then roll the remaining section to make final through cuts.
For splitting, any old hardware store maul would work fine and give you a good workout. 6# is a good size for short rounds. They aren't sharp, but you should maintain a good edge on 'em.

John,
R.S. had the life, didn't he?

 

[SilverBlue]

River Hill,
If you could post some pictures of your property it would help a great deal, some great advice here already including the safety equipment such as protective pants, helmet, and the other standard stuff that should be purchased along with the saw you decide on.

As stated, I spent a small portion of the day on site with Gypo Logger and we had a great time, but I also learned quite a bit from John and have seen some really nice work he has done. If you ever get the opportunity, spend some time with a pro and you can learn some hands on technique that will have a positive long term benefit for your trees. The equipment that you want is in the Sherrill catalogue, contact Sean and he will help you.