Husky starting techniques

[Fubar411]

Probably a question that has been asked just slightly less often than "the oil" one, but I'm having trouble getting my Husky chainsaw to reliably start.

It is a 353 I recently bought off the net, yes, I now know I should have spent the extra $$ and had a shop I can take it to. And despite being in the midwest, it has the green gas cap.

I have used the recommended starting techniques. I press the pressure release valve, lock the chain, and pull out the choke. I give it around six hard pulls, then push in the choke and pull again. When I look at the muffler, it has gasoline coming out. I pull the spark plug, it is wet. So I sometimes take it out and burn the gas off with a lighter. After all that, I have about a 30% chance of getting it started.

Does anyone recommend starting fluids? I'm using premium fuel with no ethanol and the Husky 50:1 mix. I just would like to know if all 2-cycle engines are this hard to start or if I have a bum chainsaw. Once I do get it started though, it runs like a champ.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[beelsr]

you only keep it choked until it "pops", otherwise you, wait for it.....

flood the engine. and you're flooding the engine.

my stihl's all pop after a pull or two. then you flip the switch to turn off the choke. the husky has to be similar. they have owner's manuals online that will explain the proper technique...

 

[mattinky]

On my Husky you choke it, pull it a couple times until it hits, turn the choke off and she starts on the next pull.

 

[blis]

well, my 353g is rather cold-blooded but if its tuned properly it should pop within 6 pulls and after it pops -> chole off and pull till it starts... BUT your problem might be the pressure release, IMO it just makes starting it harder...

 

[SWE#Kipp]

My 346 is a sweetie one choke pull and one without and she runs
the other two are different story though ,,,, approx 5 pulls on them ,,

But as the other says listen for "pop" and push in the choke or you will as you now know flood the saw

 

[SawTroll]

1) Regard the slightest hint that it wants to start as a "pop", don't count on your ears or the decomp valve to tell you.

2) Open the choke (push the lever in) after 3-4 pulls regardless if it has "popped", otherwise you will allmost sertainly flood it.......:bang:

Happy starting!

 

[ChuckinOhio]

I will reaffirm what Blis said up above, LEAVE THAT DARN COMPRESSION RELEASE ALONE!!!!! That thing is more of a pain than anything, it's not like you're trying to start a 100cc saw for petes sake.

Follow the starting procedures given you by the several posters in this thread and pay special heed to SawTrolls post about going off of full choke to fast idle.

All of my Husky saws start as described in this thread, and I never use the compression release ever.


Chuck

 

[stonykill]

1) Regard the slightest hint that it wants to start as a "pop", don't count on your ears or the decomp valve to tell you.

2) Open the choke (push the lever in) after 3-4 pulls regardless if it has "popped", otherwise you will allmost sertainly flood it.......:bang:

Happy starting!

troll nailed it. My 346xp will sometimes make the faintest pop. 2 or 3 pulls only with the choke on, then turn it off. These new saws aren't like the saws of old, at least my old saws. They all tend to pop on the 1st pull and run on the 2nd.

 

[Fubar411]

well, my 353g is rather cold-blooded but if its tuned properly it should pop within 6 pulls and after it pops -> chole off and pull till it starts... BUT your problem might be the pressure release, IMO it just makes starting it harder...

Well, I'm AWS (away from saw) right now, but I think mine could be a 353g as well. What does the G signify?

Thanks for all the replies. So it sounds like I have to get really agressive on the first few pulls and not flood the engine. So nobody recommends any starting fluid?

 

[SawTroll]

Well, I'm AWS (away from saw) right now, but I think mine could be a 353g as well. What does the G signify?

Thanks for all the replies. So it sounds like I have to get really agressive on the first few pulls and not flood the engine. So nobody recommends any starting fluid?

The G tells you that the saw has heated handles, that can be turned on and off.

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

Sounds like you might need to lean things out a bit, or pull it 1-2 with the choke then turn it off and pull with no choke.


I personally have never seen any starting difference with the decomp being employed or not.

 

[HiOctane]

Well, I'm AWS (away from saw) right now, but I think mine could be a 353g as well. What does the G signify?

Thanks for all the replies. So it sounds like I have to get really agressive on the first few pulls and not flood the engine. So nobody recommends any starting fluid?

If you have the G one,dont forget to turn it off when the temp is warmer because at ON at warm temp,the saw will vapor lock and make it hard to start .

 

[nisse]

I will reaffirm what Blis said up above, LEAVE THAT DARN COMPRESSION RELEASE ALONE!!!!! That thing is more of a pain than anything, it's not like you're trying to start a 100cc saw for petes sake.

Follow the starting procedures given you by the several posters in this thread and pay special heed to SawTrolls post about going off of full choke to fast idle.

All of my Husky saws start as described in this thread, and I never use the compression release ever.
Chuck

I really like the decomp on my 372 and 262. Makes pulling effortless and I imagine the starter mechanism and rope will last forever. Almost wish my 346 had one...


/Nisse

 

[Fubar411]

Mine definitely doesn't have heated handles. I'm at the office today. I wish I had my saw in the car right now, feel like trying to start it. I wonder what the company policy is for keeping a chainsaw in the office...

 

[romeo]

Gut the muffler or buy a non EPA muffler. Those Green Weeny mufflers make them a real bear to start. You would also like the saw more in the end.

 

[Fubar411]

Which model do I need?

 

[blis]

If you have the G one,dont forget to turn it off when the temp is warmer because at ON at warm temp,the saw will vapor lock and make it hard to start .

now thats something i have never heard of... are you serious about that?

 

[Woodie]

I would not recommend starting fluid (ether). That's to be used only for the (very) occasional situation, and you're having a problem all the time. Ether destroys all the lubrication that is present at the time, and it's just plain hard on parts.

As for always taking the choke off after 3 - 4 pulls...I can't agree with that. My red-and-black Husky sometimes needs 5 - 6 pulls with the choke on, particularly if I've had it on its side changing the bar/chain before it's been started for the day.

I would agree with everyone about listening hard for that pop...I always start mine for the first time of the day with my hearing protection off. The first time you hear anything other than the starter mechanism, that counts.

I would take it to a local dealer and have them adjust the carb, too. Sounds to me like this may be an adjustment thing.

 

[SawTroll]

.... As for always taking the choke off after 3 - 4 pulls...I can't agree with that. My red-and-black Husky sometimes needs 5 - 6 pulls with the choke on, particularly if I've had it on its side changing the bar/chain before it's been started for the day.. ....

Every saw has its own ways, at least to a degree - but 3-4 pulls is a good place to start, at least on saws that have showed a tendency to flood.....:greenchainsaw:

 

[HiOctane]

now thats something i have never heard of... are you serious about that?

Yes, if your saw carb is equipped with electric heat,your carb will become too warm and causes vapor lock and will your saw hard to start after refueling or when cutting the saw will seems like short on fuel at hi rpm .