Husky "XP" Models: What is Different?

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max2cam

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I notice that some of Husky's saws have an "XP" on the model name.

What does that mean?

I'm looking at the Husky 365 and 372XP and am wondering why one ranks the XP rating and the other one doesn't?

More metal, less plastic?

Thanks...
 
According to http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/Folder_263/node724.asp (or just follow their frames into the site from http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/ when they change it again) "XP" signifies "High-speed engine-quality".  Now I don't claim to know what all that really entails (Dennis or some of the others who work on and/or modify them for a living would have that knowledge), but I'm pretty sure I'm safe in saying that if you don't plan to use the saw for at least a couple hours every day you can probably get by quite nicely without an equivalent XP model.  In fact, with the smaller saws (not the ones you're talking about) one might be better off with the "standard" model if they don't have the technique to properly use the XP.

Glen
 
I'm looking at a larger saw to cut lumber out of logs with. That is a task demanding of sustained cutting/running time. I've cut a lot of firewood but this is different. I need a chainsaw that is like a motorcycle that you get on the highway and RIDE, and not like a dirt bike for just bobbing around the woods like firewood cutting is.

I'm thinking around a 70cc saw would be good for the task, with a 20-inch bar.

But as to brands and models, I'm a babe in the woods...
 
70cc is awful small. I wouldn't go smaller than a 385xp. I've used a 288 for milling, but now use a 3120. Worth the extra cash!
 
I have made quite a few cuts with my alaskan mill using my 372 & 24" bar. If the cuts are over 15" in soft wood, I would go bigger.
If you are going to stay under that, the 372 will most likely be fine.
If you are trying to keep costs low, get a good, used 066 for $350-400

Rob
 
I could be wrong, but it looks like the XP models rev higher.

372XP -- 13,500 rpm
365 ----- 12,500 rpm

I need the most displacement for the $$$, but want the lowest revving saw too.
 
the big difference i see is the power to wt ratio. dont know how they do it ,but theres a big difference between xp and standard. same with say the 026 and the 029
 
The difference seems firmly connected with a ratio, but instead of power<font face="fixed" size="+1">:</font>weight, it's cc<font face="fixed" size="+1">:</font>kW.

A quick thumbing through the Husky catalog shows the current generation (as of their 2002 publication) of saws designated XP to be making 1 kW per roughly 18 cc while the "standard" models require 20 or more.&nbsp; The standouts are the 357XP which dips into the 17's and the 365 right at 19.

It's a little hard to be "accurate" with the math because they round the displacements (up?).&nbsp; The 357XP, stated as 57cc, has the same bore and stroke as Stihl's MS340 which is listed in that firm's data as 56.5cc.&nbsp; Because of that, unless one knows the more accurate displacement of the saws, this pointless comparison is even more so.

For kicks, the Stihl 260/360 are 18.7/18.6, the 440/660 are 17.7/17.6, and the winner (from both manufacturers) in this category is the MS460 at 17.0 cc/kW.&nbsp; The consumer saws 290-390 are all within a couple points of 20, and the pro-sumer 270/280 are 19.1/19.3.

That's about all the time I've got for that right now...
 
XP's will rev higher because they all have the "quad port" intake design, which is what makes Huskys so attractive to racers and makes them so responsive to modifications.

XP's have better jugs, pistons, sometimes crankcases, run smoother, and have better p:w ratio than the non XP's.
 
good post huskyman. ive ask the question before ,about the difference.
your answer kinda clears the muddy water on the issue a bit. :) later tm
 
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