Husqvarna 154XP

[C@TCH]

Inherited this saw but looks like wrong bar is on it and possibly chain. The oil hole doesn’t match up on bar, and when I try to cut something it cuts on angle. Can someone point me in the right direction as to what bar and chain I need for this saw.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I don't see a 154XP.... Do you mean 254XP?

 

[cscltd]

Yes there was a 154xp. Version before 254xp
usually .325 pitch .058 chain 72dl if 18” bar
and Oregon bar is a k094 mount also .325 .058
same chain that used on modern day 550xp
saw cutting to side is 95% of time the chain, one side is duller or damaged more than other side.
pics would help to see what bar chain u have on now

 

[Chevboy0167]

No argument here if there is. All info I can find shows only the SE and SG sub models.

Maybe some help on bar mount...

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/BMP/01?OpenDocument

 

[huskihl]

No argument here if there is. All info I can find shows only the SE and SG sub models.

Maybe some help on bar mount...

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/BMP/01?OpenDocument

The 154 and early 254 had the SE designation. Later 254 were called XP. Same meaning. SG meant heated handles.
Both use the k095 small husky mount bar

 

[C@TCH]

Yes there was a 154xp. Version before 254xp
usually .325 pitch .058 chain 72dl if 18” bar
and Oregon bar is a k094 mount also .325 .058
same chain that used on modern day 550xp
saw cutting to side is 95% of time the chain, one side is duller or damaged more than other side.
pics would help to see what bar chain u have on now

Here are some pics, I don’t know much about chain and bar numbers . What does .058 mean and 72dl.

 

[HumBurner]

Yes there was a 154xp. Version before 254xp
usually .325 pitch .058 chain 72dl if 18” bar
and Oregon bar is a k094 mount also .325 .058
same chain that used on modern day 550xp
saw cutting to side is 95% of time the chain, one side is duller or damaged more than other side.
pics would help to see what bar chain u have on now

Bar rails could also be uneven/not square. Bar could be bent ever so slightly. Loose sprocket-nose/-bearings.

Lots of possibilities for cutting crooked.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Here are some pics, I don’t know much about chain and bar numbers . What does .058 mean and 72dl.

0.058 refers to the thickness of the DL's (drive links) that are driven by the clutch sprocket and guided by the bar rails as the chain rotates around the bar.
72 DL is the number of those drive links of .325 chain needed to make a loop of chain to fit the length of bar (in this case 18 inch bar).
I too have not seen a 154XP, just the SE ones- but they are getting pretty old now and you might want to have it checked out for air leaks before you go spending money on bars and chains.
I would be buying a complete new drive system- new clutch bell- spur (or sprocket if available) new chain and new K095 mount bar.

 

[cscltd]

You have a .050 chain on a .058 bar. Hence your chain is really not thick enough The part that goes into bar, thus will make it more sloppy and add to cutting on angle.
but from the look of your chain- I would guess it is cutting to the right as the right side cutters are damaged at tip of cutter.
Btw bar is 15” 64dl .058 gauge.
if you want to use your original bar, you would need chain # 25rs 64e or 25rm 64e in Stihl brand. Or 21lp 64e(u) in Oregon brand. Or equivalent

 

[82F100SWB]

Just for the purpose of clarification, 154's were SE or SG, early 254's were just 254 or 254G, the XP designation came later.
I concur that you have a .050 chain and an .058 bar there, 25RS64 would be my choice if you use that existing bar, I would go .050 with a 23RSP64 if you are replacing both. The RS Pro Narrow Kerf is nice stuff, and my dealer doesn't stock normal 23rs anymore...

 

[C@TCH]

Thanks everyone for the info, I’m learning a lot here.
one more question, from what I found on parts diagram it shows a washer on top of sprocket, looks like I’m missing that. Is this something that’s needed and still available?