Husqvarna 266 XP - Problems with Kill Switch Replacement (Also, trying to determine age)

[Tobeuss]

Hello, Everyone.

My parents recently moved to Florida and after many years of country living, no longer need a chainsaw. As such, my dad gave me his old Husqvarna 266. It's got a silver tag marked "Husqvarna 266 XP - 6322298 - Electrolux Motor AB SWEDEN."

When he gave it to me, he told me the kill switch was broken (it's actually missing) but that last time he ran it, it ran wonderfully. As such, I hopped online and found that everything pointed me towards the kill switch below:

Problem is that it fits the opening, but the 266 XP has no hole for the eye to be screwed to. There's the wire from the coil that can reach the spade, but nothing to complete that circuit whatsoever. I can't find any alternative part.

So... anyone have any idea what the deal is here? The exploded parts diagrams all show a screw going through that eye to the chassis, but the 266 XP doesn't have a hole.

Also, anyone able to decipher the age of this saw from the serial tag details above?

Thanks, Everyone!

 

[Tobeuss]

Spent some time searching and it appears this is likely a 1986. Sounds right?

 

[67L36Driver]

I'm in the same situation with a 50 dated 1982.

Simple fix is to drill/tap for a suitable (short!) screw or bend the tab down to get a good ground on the case.

Don't drill into the fuel tank.[emoji849]

 

[Tobeuss]

I'm in the same situation with a 50 dated 1982.

Simple fix is to drill/tap for a suitable (short!) screw or bend the tab down to get a good ground on the case.

Don't drill into the fuel tank.[emoji849]

Thanks. Any idea what the proper switch is supposed to look like or at least how it was operating before?

 

[67L36Driver]

Nope, this one missing switch also.

 

[formersawrep]

Your 266 originally had a switch that had a metal prong on the side which grounded itself to the edge of the crankcase. The switch you have pictured is the replacement. Just drill/tap a hole for it to ground. The alternative is to find a NOS switch with the metal prong - or use the choke to shut it off.

 

[Tobeuss]

Your 266 originally had a switch that had a metal prong on the side which grounded itself to the edge of the crankcase. The switch you have pictured is the replacement. Just drill/tap a hole for it to ground. The alternative is to find a NOS switch with the metal prong - or use the choke to shut it off.

Thanks!

 

[logeeland]

Spent some time searching and it appears this is likely a 1986. Sounds right?

Yes, 1986

 

[logeeland]

There is a place in VT, chainsawr.com that sells used parts. They might have a switch. Also, when I get back home tomorrow night, I have a box of parts from my old 266SE and I think I have the switch. Send me a PM to remind me.

 

[Tobeuss]

There is a place in VT, chainsawr.com that sells used parts. They might have a switch. Also, when I get back home tomorrow night, I have a box of parts from my old 266SE and I think I have the switch. Send me a PM to remind me.

Much appreciated, but I'll just make this one work.

Thanks!

 

[BGE541]

It goes something like this...

 

[BGE541]

Your 266 originally had a switch that had a metal prong on the side which grounded itself to the edge of the crankcase. The switch you have pictured is the replacement. Just drill/tap a hole for it to ground. The alternative is to find a NOS switch with the metal prong - or use the choke to shut it off.

I have a 61 with a ported 272 top end that has no kill switch so sure enough it gets the choke as a kill switch...

 

[67L36Driver]

Fixed. Drilled/tapped for short #8-32 screw.