Where can I find the tool that will allow me to adjust the carb on my 272. I bought one of the spline tools commonly used on the newer husky's but it's to big to fit in the hole on my older Husky. Does anyone know where I can find such a tool?
Husqvarna 272xp Carb Adjust Tool
- Thread starter namoon
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Boleclimber
ArboristSite Guru
There is not a special tool for older husqvarnas. Use a long thin flat screwdriver.
I do not intend to sound rude, but you should really take the top cover of your saw, and have a lil look around..........it might be a lil too early for you to think about making carb adjustments.
Why do you think you need to adjust the carb?
Why do you think you need to adjust the carb?
I purchased the saw out of Missouri and I live in Georgia. It could be that there is some elevation difference between the two. The saw has also been recently rebuilt. What I do know is that the saw bogs down and quits cutting when you bite the dogs in and push the nose of the saw down. I'm thinking a carb adjustment would correct the saw from bogging down when under a load. What say you. The carb adjustments are hid in a long tight hole.
I purchased the saw out of Missouri and I live in Georgia.
OK
OK
What all has been rebuilt? Carb included. Maybe you got a bad fuel line. Maybe the carb does need adjustment being to rich. Like said before no special tools are needed to adjust the carb on a 272 only a long thin screwdriver. If you dont know how to adjust a carb dont try it to you learn how to. It is very simple to make a crispy critter out of your saw if you dont.
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Boleclimber
ArboristSite Guru
A lean condition could cause the saw to lack torque. Try richening the H side some. If the saw is not to far off adjustment it should only take a 1/4 turn (out) or so to make a difference.
Not knowing if you have carburetor adjusting experience on a saw, you may want to search carb adjusting. Lean carbs can cause overheating with piston/cylinder damage.
Not knowing if you have carburetor adjusting experience on a saw, you may want to search carb adjusting. Lean carbs can cause overheating with piston/cylinder damage.
The cylinder, piston,and rings I was told are all new. After taking the top cover off it would appear his statements were true. I understand that the older saws were not meant to turn the rpm's that the new ones will. Where should I set this older 272? What I have read says I should set it at 13500.
Stumpys Customs
Stumpbroke
I would stay closer to 13,000 rpm. Factory rating is 13,300.
not knowing the make of the piston-cylinder that were put on, generally the rings fully seat after several tanks of fuel (6-8, maybe more).
if yours has a decompression valve, might check for leakage there.
what bar length, chain type ?
if yours has a decompression valve, might check for leakage there.
what bar length, chain type ?
THere is not a decompression valve on the saw. The bar length is 28" and I am unsure about the chain as it came with the saw.
Ok. Thanks for the answers. Couple of questions -
When you mentioned "dog'd in and pushed the nose down", did you mean the full length of the bar was buried in the wood ?
And what kind of wood are you cutting ?
Can you provide photo of bar-chain (closeup of tooth on cutters would be useful) ?
Last, it would be useful to know the drive slot count of the clutch sprocket (or rim).
(expect it could be 7 or 8) ?
I will be glad to give and get you some answers. The whole bar was not in the wood. I'd say about 3/4 of it was though. At the time I was cutting a hackberry, which is probably considered hardwood, but most of the time I will be cutting oak.
I will do my best to get you a picture of the530035560 saw and bar chain this evening. I will also take a look at what I think you are referring to As the drive teeth.
