Kevin
Addicted to ArboristSite
Has anyone heard anything new lately pertaining to new changes being made to the 335?
Husqvarna 335
- Thread starter Kevin
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WOLF_RIVER_MIKE
ArboristSite Guru
020 or 335XPT?
I haven't heard anything since this thread (pg. 5, I think). I'm interested in this new version too.
I haven't heard anything since this thread (pg. 5, I think). I'm interested in this new version too.
WOLF_RIVER_MIKE
ArboristSite Guru
Will they oil now?
that would be a plus...
that would be a plus...
tony marks
Addicted to ArboristSite
i got a chance to puck u a 335 that looks good. guy says the tank tank is broken whatever that means.
u fellas think this would be a costly repair . things been there over 6 months[pawn shop]what say ye me of more knowlege than me , like i say real clean looking,and the guy acts like its shot ,and he dont think he can grt anything for it.. later now an thanks.
u fellas think this would be a costly repair . things been there over 6 months[pawn shop]what say ye me of more knowlege than me , like i say real clean looking,and the guy acts like its shot ,and he dont think he can grt anything for it.. later now an thanks.
A new tank cost me $88, to repair the saw a groundman failed to move after handing me a bigger saw. The intake boot, which used to go bad, should be replaced while the saw is apart.
Get him to let you test it, to see if it has a leak. Take it to a safe place, say over a bucket, and fill both tanks with gas, one at a time. I reckon you could use water, if you plugged the intake gas line at the carb. It could be dried if you had some time. Wouldnt matter if you find a leak.
Your results will tell you what its worth. I'd say 50-150 broke, 150-225 if it is OK. If the gas cap is green or gray, it is a newer saw. Also, look for date of mfr, next to serial #, below bar mount area.
Figure on a hour of labor to r and r the tank, more like two since you will want to take your time. The magneto can stay on, so the flywhell gap will stay the same, it just makes for a tight squeeze. A few sharp taps will spring the flywheel free of the crankshaft.
It is not a hard job, if you are careful, and all you really need is an allen wrench.
My shop guy never replaced the oiler on my three first generation saws, he just worked on the whole system to get it free flowing. now mine all work consistently, just flow a bit on the light side.
Only real problems with the saw is the temperamental fuel system, and the chain brakes, which still get floppy after a year or so of hard use. Always got my first one free, don't know about now, two more are bad.
Impatiently waiting for the two new models (336 and 339?) to come out.
Get him to let you test it, to see if it has a leak. Take it to a safe place, say over a bucket, and fill both tanks with gas, one at a time. I reckon you could use water, if you plugged the intake gas line at the carb. It could be dried if you had some time. Wouldnt matter if you find a leak.
Your results will tell you what its worth. I'd say 50-150 broke, 150-225 if it is OK. If the gas cap is green or gray, it is a newer saw. Also, look for date of mfr, next to serial #, below bar mount area.
Figure on a hour of labor to r and r the tank, more like two since you will want to take your time. The magneto can stay on, so the flywhell gap will stay the same, it just makes for a tight squeeze. A few sharp taps will spring the flywheel free of the crankshaft.
It is not a hard job, if you are careful, and all you really need is an allen wrench.
My shop guy never replaced the oiler on my three first generation saws, he just worked on the whole system to get it free flowing. now mine all work consistently, just flow a bit on the light side.
Only real problems with the saw is the temperamental fuel system, and the chain brakes, which still get floppy after a year or so of hard use. Always got my first one free, don't know about now, two more are bad.
Impatiently waiting for the two new models (336 and 339?) to come out.
