Husqvarna 339XP fuel and return lines replacement

[TBayChopChop]

Hello, I see on this forum that others have called the 339xp an 'ugly little saw' and 'difficult to work on. I am trying to replace the return fuel line from the bottom of the carburetor to the fuel tank. It seems to be hiding in a space between the plastic clamshell of the saw and the magnesium plate which appears to be a part of the engine casting. There are no good pictures or video of this procedure. In fact, the Husky manuals and parts diagrams do not show the carburetor that I have which appears to be a C1Q-EL20b, not the C1Q-EL234 which is called off in the manual and has no fuel return nipple.
Looking for some advice on how to proceed. Removing the flywheel would be next. Not looking forward to splitting the clamshell with the wires and things having to find their way back together again.

 

[Franny K]

I believe the magnesium plate that goes to the bucking spikes is the bottom of the clam shell, the other half has the cylinder. I also believe the return line from the carb goes to the purge pump and then the line from the purge pump would be what goes to the tank. Another line from the fuel pick up goes to the carb for fuel to be used. Sorry I don't have a suggestion, I have the 338 top handle and have not yet needed to replace any lines.

 

[TBayChopChop]

I believe the magnesium plate that goes to the bucking spikes is the bottom of the clam shell, the other half has the cylinder. I also believe the return line from the carb goes to the purge pump and then the line from the purge pump would be what goes to the tank. Another line from the fuel pick up goes to the carb for fuel to be used. Sorry I don't have a suggestion, I have the 338 top handle and have not yet needed to replace any lines.

Thanks.

 

[deercatcher]

The engine rides inside of the orange chassis. You will have to remove it to replace the lines, but once you do, it isn't too hard with piloting wires. Carb off, spark plug, flywheel, coil, and all suspensions off. unplug impulse line under flywheel and tuck intake boot through the hole to the rear carefully. pick it out of groove with fingernail or needle nose plyers, you can gently pinch the end off the boot and roll it into itself with the plyiers and slip it into the interior. Push the rear out first. Watch for the oiler pick up; slip off the nipple with the needle nose before you separate all the way. Note the pathway of the hoses, and use very thin wire to drag the new hose through the holes. Cut the hose on a bias, or slant to make a long skinny end. Pierce and twist the wire where the cut thickens. You can lube the hose, and grab the tip with the plyers when it leaves the hole. Some times the wire will rip through, be patient, try again. Get the lengths right inside the tanks. When re assenbling, be sure to put the coil wire through before reintroducing engine. Hook up the oil line. Lead with the boot, try to get it near the opening. Press the engine to the front to compress the boot as you slip the rear in. Make sure the heat sheild isn't bent or damaged. Reach plyers through the hole and grab half an inch of boot. Roll the boot in the p;yiers to make it smaller in diameter and ease it through the hole. it will snap out into place . Be sure not to damage or tear it. Reattach suspentions. remember log gripping dog. Check alignment of flywheel key on crankshaft and tighen down hard. Align Hi tension lead and attach coil. place a buisness card between coil and flywheel. spin flywheel so magnets lign up on the comontator bars of the coil. Let the coil pull into the magnets, held off by the business card to set the air gap. Tighten coil, the pull out card. Check for clearance spinning the flywheel past the coil. Reattach kill wire and primary ciruit. One under coil screw, other on blade. Carb linkages and hoses are a little tricky. Take pictures before dissassembly anything you think you might not remember. Good luck, and enjoy the process.

 

[TBayChopChop]

The engine rides inside of the orange chassis. You will have to remove it to replace the lines, but once you do, it isn't too hard with piloting wires. Carb off, spark plug, flywheel, coil, and all suspensions off. unplug impulse line under flywheel and tuck intake boot through the hole to the rear carefully. pick it out of groove with fingernail or needle nose plyers, you can gently pinch the end off the boot and roll it into itself with the plyiers and slip it into the interior. Push the rear out first. Watch for the oiler pick up; slip off the nipple with the needle nose before you separate all the way. Note the pathway of the hoses, and use very thin wire to drag the new hose through the holes. Cut the hose on a bias, or slant to make a long skinny end. Pierce and twist the wire where the cut thickens. You can lube the hose, and grab the tip with the plyers when it leaves the hole. Some times the wire will rip through, be patient, try again. Get the lengths right inside the tanks. When re assenbling, be sure to put the coil wire through before reintroducing engine. Hook up the oil line. Lead with the boot, try to get it near the opening. Press the engine to the front to compress the boot as you slip the rear in. Make sure the heat sheild isn't bent or damaged. Reach plyers through the hole and grab half an inch of boot. Roll the boot in the p;yiers to make it smaller in diameter and ease it through the hole. it will snap out into place . Be sure not to damage or tear it. Reattach suspentions. remember log gripping dog. Check alignment of flywheel key on crankshaft and tighen down hard. Align Hi tension lead and attach coil. place a buisness card between coil and flywheel. spin flywheel so magnets lign up on the comontator bars of the coil. Let the coil pull into the magnets, held off by the business card to set the air gap. Tighten coil, the pull out card. Check for clearance spinning the flywheel past the coil. Reattach kill wire and primary ciruit. One under coil screw, other on blade. Carb linkages and hoses are a little tricky. Take pictures before dissassembly anything you think you might not remember. Good luck, and enjoy the process.

Thank you very much deercatcher,
That write-up was very helpful. One misconception I had was that the fuel entered to the top of the carburetor. This was incorrect and there are some good drawings showing how the primer draws the fuel up from the bottom fitting which is attached to one piece of fuel line through the grommet and into the fuel tank /filter. Also in the process of putting the clutch parts together I did not seat them properly and the saw began to spin when ever the engine was turned or running. Turns out the hex shaped shaft on the clutch drum set improperly into the plastic fitting (which also runs the oil pump) and scored it so I bought a new one. $17 Cdn. One of the hardest things was to remove the allen screw holding a two-way spring dampener from the top of the engine to the case near the spark plug and harder yet to put back together. Cheers.