husqvarna 350 chainsaw oil leak

[mikedlap]

I recently noticed oil on the left side of my husqvarna 350 chainsaw. The oil was on the cylinder, muffler, and when I took of the starter housing I noticed oil had pooled where the flywheel is located. It looks like the flywheel is spraying the leaked oil up all over the left side of the saw. I don't know whether it is 2 cycle oil or bar and chain oil.

I took off the muffler to see if the oil tank was melted and I found that it looked good.


The piston and cylinder look good from the exhaust side too.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[astnmacgto]

Take your coil off and make sure there are no holes or anything behind it

 

[svk]

Is your oil cap leaking? This could cause bar oil to leak out and when it hits the flywheel it will get sprayed everywhere.

 

[mikedlap]

I did just buy a new oil cap thinking the same thing as you. I have not tried the saw with the new cap. I was worried that the oil might be coming from the crank seals and I could ruin the saw if I tried running it again. Is it possible this oil is coming from the crank seals? Could it be 2 cycle oil?

 

[astnmacgto]

I did just buy a new oil cap thinking the same thing as you. I have not tried the saw with the new cap. I was worried that the oil might be coming from the crank seals and I could ruin the saw if I tried running it again. Is it possible this oil is coming from the crank seals? Could it be 2 cycle oil?

You would have a hellish size air leak and probably destroyed the saw by now if the seals had gotten bad enough to seep out oil. Because whatever was capable of coming out under primary compression, it's going to leak even worse under vacuum

 

[astnmacgto]

Does it feel about the same consistency as your bar oil?

 

[mikedlap]

Does it feel about the same consistency as your bar oil?

Comparing the oil from the oil tank to what is present in the flywheel area, I would say they are similar. I've been going back and forth on whether I think it is the same. I can say that the tackifier in the oil from the oil tank makes the oil stick and string away with the fingers as I pull my fingers apart. I could not get the same effect from the oil in the flywheel area.

 

[astnmacgto]

Did you ever take the coil off and check for cracks or holes behind it?

 

[mikedlap]

Did you ever take the coil off and check for cracks or holes behind it?

I have not yet. If I take the coil off, is it easy to put back on or do I have to keep the exact same gap and put it back in a certain way?

 

[astnmacgto]

I have not yet. If I take the coil off, is it easy to put back on or do I have to keep the exact same gap and put it back in a certain way?

I don't remember if the 350 is a set gap or not. if it's not just put a business card in between the coil and the flywheel magnets and let the coil get sucked up to the magnets, tighten it down and then pull out the business card. Real coil gap should be about .010 to .015 which is the thickness of the business card.

 

[cuinrearview]

Is your oil cap leaking? This could cause bar oil to leak out and when it hits the flywheel it will get sprayed everywhere.

Simple and since you already have the cap, free. And would be my guess #1.

I don't remember if the 350 is a set gap or not. if it's not just put a business card in between the coil and the flywheel magnets and let the coil get sucked up to the magnets, tighten it down and then pull out the business card. Real coil gap should be about .010 to .015 which is the thickness of the business card.

Still free, and would be an easy thing to check. What is shown in the pics did not come from inside the crankcase.

 

[husqvarnaxpman]

If the cap doesn't fix the problem, check the seem right behind the coil. I picked up one a little while ago that had the same symptoms as yours and this is where mine was leaking.

 

[Ozhoo]

A little UV dye works a wonder on hard to find leaks

 

[mikedlap]

If the cap doesn't fix the problem, check the seem right behind the coil. I picked up one a little while ago that had the same symptoms as yours and this is where mine was leaking.
View attachment 547658

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check it out soon. We're you able to fix the seam leak?

 

[mikedlap]

A little UV dye works a wonder on hard to find leaks

The uv dye is a great idea. Thanks.

 

[mikedlap]

I found the source of the oil. I tipped the saw into different positions and let it stay there for a few hours. when i tipped it muffler down, i saw the oil coming from the seam that runs from the front of the saw and past the muffler. i obviously pulled the muffler and the area in the picture is below where the muffler would be. you can see the light reflecting off of the oil. any suggestions for how to seal would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

 

[grizz55chev]

I found the source of the oil. I tipped the saw into different positions and let it stay there for a few hours. when i tipped it muffler down, i saw the oil coming from the seam that runs from the front of the saw and past the muffler. i obviously pulled the muffler and the area in the picture is below where the muffler would be. you can see the light reflecting off of the oil. any suggestions for how to seal would be greatly appreciated. thanks.View attachment 553108

JB weld, not the quickset kind. Rough up the area, clean with brake lean, rough it up with sandpaper, let it set 24 hrs, cut wood

 

[mikedlap]

JB weld, not the quickset kind. Rough up the area, clean with brake lean, rough it up with sandpaper, let it set 24 hrs, cut wood

thanks for your suggestion. i have a tube on hondabond. should i use that or wait until i get to the store to buy the jb weld?

 

[Mattyo]

If you can get it to seal....great. likely it will not be perfect. If you want a different chassis...I happen to have an extra bare chassis... $40 shipped.

Have you switched out your intake clamp yet to the metal one?

I have a LOTS of 350 stuff on my youtube channel...so don't feel bad about doing a full teardown. Best of luck

 

[mikedlap]

If you can get it to seal....great. likely it will not be perfect. If you want a different chassis...I happen to have an extra bare chassis... $40 shipped.

Have you switched out your intake clamp yet to the metal one?

I have a LOTS of 350 stuff on my youtube channel...so don't feel bad about doing a full teardown. Best of luck

thanks. i have switched out the intake clamp to the metal one. i am real hesitant to tear it all apart and replace the chassis. i have never taken one fully apart. if i had a buddy that would walk me through it in person, i would, but i don't. i think you may be right about getting it to seal...