Husqvarna 350 Rebuild

[ChillyB]

After reading about potential issues with the 350-type saws I resolved to do a rebuild on my own first saw, a 1998 350. It started with a boot clamp upgrade and I fell into the “while I’m this far” hole. For the better, I suppose.

The saw is fully disassembled and I’m detail-cleaning everything. I think the piston and cylinder look pretty darned good. Bottom of skirt is polished on intake side the no scoring. I decarbed the piston and see nothing that concerns me.

Does everyone change the ring when already down this far? I did not test compression before taking it apart but saw has not seen hard use, or very much use. There were a few years where I cut firewood but other than that it’s been sitting.

 

[mudfly]

Since you are there, I'd put in a new Caber ring. Cheap insurance. I'd probably also change the seals too. Even with low usage they are close to 25 years old.

2 relatively cheap replacements.

I'd also take a look at the impluse And fuel lines.

Just my $0.02 take it for what you paid for it.

 

[grizz55chev]

Since you are there, I'd put in a new Caber ring. Cheap insurance. I'd probably also change the seals too. Even with low usage they are close to 25 years old.

2 relatively cheap replacements.

I'd also take a look at the impluse And fuel lines.

Just my $0.02 take it for what you paid for it.

There is no impulse line, it's incorporated into the carb boot.

 

[ChillyB]

Already have fuel line and bearings/seals ready to go. I’ll order a ring.

The original fuel line was replaced maybe five years ago but I’ll do it again. The original rotted at the gap between case and AV frame. Above and below it looked fine. Saw started bogging and going lean. Luckily I didn’t burn it up before giving up and letting my buddy do the cutting while I loaded wood and piled up the tops. I’ll not risk that again for an inexpensive fuel line. I will say that back then I didn’t hunt exclusively for ethanol free, but back then ethanol wast as pervasive as today.

 

[grizz55chev]

Already have fuel line and bearings/seals ready to go. I’ll order a ring.

The original fuel line was replaced maybe five years ago but I’ll do it again. The original rotted at the gap between case and AV frame. Above and below it looked fine. Saw started bogging and going lean. Luckily I didn’t burn it up before giving up and letting my buddy do the cutting while I loaded wood and piled up the tops. I’ll not risk that again for an inexpensive fuel line. I will say that back then I didn’t hunt exclusively for ethanol free, but back then ethanol wast as pervasive as today.

Do not use aftermarket rubber parts! They will only last a few months at best.

 

[mudfly]

There is no impulse line, it's incorporated into the carb boot.

https://www.allmowerspares.com.au/h...9-60-01-537-24-65-01-503896001-537246501.html


Not going to argue, but it’s in the IPL.

 

[9050LX]

I have re-used some 350's with orig seals and bearings.They are so far doing just fine.Get some threebond for sealing the plastic to aluminum crank riser.They are so easy to rebuild I dont worry too much about the bearings or seals.Might as well re-ring if you can wait.

 

[ChillyB]

Only OEM rubber for me, and most other parts if I can find them. Chinese and Indian rubber is usually pretty low grade stuff.

Glad I got the new bearings. Was just playing with the old ones, one of them is a little grabby. Saw was exhibiting not bad behavior.

Since fuel line isn’t very old I’ll use a piece of that for pulse line, then replace the fuel line.

Thinking to delete the base gasket. Wasn’t my original plan because I think a gasket seals better than any sealant. But the cylinder and base click together cleanly without a hint of wobble, and it’s not like I’m trying anything that hasn’t been done 1000 times.

Check this out. My coil seemed rather oily given the bar pump is on the other side of the saw. When I pulled the front coil screw it has oil in it! The screw hole broke through into the tank from the factory. When I shine a light into the tank and look into screw hole The light shines through the plastic. I can’t see the crack but it’s there, probably the edge of the hole like a lid on a soup can that has been partially cut. I’ll put a little Threebond on that screw when I put it together.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

You might be lucky for a piece of fuel line to be able to complete the near 180 degree turn in a small space without collapsing at the apex of the bend.
Might work, might not- I will admit I have never tried to do it.

 

[ChillyB]

You might be lucky for a piece of fuel line to be able to complete the near 180 degree turn in a small space without collapsing at the apex of the bend.
Might work, might not- I will admit I have never tried to do it.

The 350 fuel line is a spiral so it has plenty of bend built into it.

 

[ChillyB]

The fun part begins.

 

[ChillyB]

Put a few drops of 2-stroke oil on bearings, applied the Threebond 1184, seated and tightened the base. Minimal ooze into crankcase side of joint, which I removed with long wooden cotton swabs.

Right or wrong, applied sealant to plastic base and through bearing seats. Did same to the aluminum base, then assembled.

 

[ChillyB]

While this sets up I guess I’ll mess with the muffler. Was heavily rusted so soaked in EvapRust for a few hours. Stuff is amazing if you’ve never tried it.

This muffler doesn’t seem inclined to come apart but I don’t see any welds. Should it come apart?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

No- it shouldn't.

 

[ChillyB]

Thanks

I should have a disclaimer for this thread. I am learning here. Use this thread as instructional at your own peril. This is mostly a build thread where I seek advice and invite people to stop me before I do something wrong. It’ll be fun. And maybe my saw will run when I’m done. That would be cool.

Dug the sealant out of the channel around the oiler cover. Will lay in a fresh bead.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I believe they are crimped and brazed shut like some Echo are.

You can mod the OEM one by removing the screen and deflector, braze shut the factory outlet and drill a hole in the front with a short pipe stub brazed in. Or even buy them...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384667818124?hash=item598ffd188c:g:nkAAAOSwoQ9h2166

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I will say that you keep things good and clean...

 

[Woodslasher]

For the oem mufflers I just open up the hole under the factory outlet so I can still retain the factory spark screen.

 

[ChillyB]

I will say that you keep things good and clean...

I worked for maybe 17 years, mostly in quality dept, at engine plant that built locomotive Diesel engines. I know how critical cleanliness is for even YUGE engines. So a li’l baby like a chainsaw probably warrants even more attention. Though I think the bearing clearances on this saw are sloppy compared to those big engines, if you can believe it. We ran steel shell bearings with hardly any tin and lead layer. Tiny debris could score them badly. That’s why I hate Scotch Brite. Really shouldn’t be used, though I know many use it without harm (so far as they know).

 

[ChillyB]

Cover on. I let the Threebond tack up a long time before putting it on. Had to dam up the lower half of the groove to keep it from running out the lower end. Don’t know why Husqvarna seals just the top half, just following their lead.