Husqvarna 350 wont run

[oologahan]

I can get it to start for a few seconds, but it dies right after that, only starts and runs for a few seconds on choke or half choke, when I push the choke off, it dies. If I leave it running with the choke on it dies in a few seconds as well. I have a factory rebuilt carb on it and all the fuel lines check out ok. There is a brass perforated collar that goes into the rubber boot and it actually ran a little longer when I forgot to put it in. I found no cracks in the intake boot, but it was really hard to tell with the boot on, could it be the boot or maybe crank seals Thanks

 

[9050LX]

intake boot loose? plastic clamp? one turn out on adjustment screws?

 

[oologahan]

intake boot loose? plastic clamp? one turn out on adjustment screws?

It could be, The plastic clamp is on, but it does seem to be sucking air somehow or somewhere. How do I remove the boot and check it. Yes, one turn out on the adjustment screws

 

[J D]

Those plastic clamps are a known issue & have contributed to the demise of many of those saws (along with loose muffler, cylinder, & riser bolts).
What's the history of the saw... was it running before you rebuilt the carb? Does it have fresh fuel mix? Did you replace fuel filter? Fuel lines? Purge bulb (if fitted)?
Whats the compression like?
Have you checked piston through the exhaust for scoring?

 

[9050LX]

I think the only good way to inspect the clamp is to remove the cylinder.maybe you can find a narrow hose clamp and work it around but i pull the cylinder,pop in some new rings andthreebond the manifold to the cylinder and let it sit 2 days.if you can turn the rubber boot on the cylinder its undoubtedly leaking.does not hurt to remove the aluminum riser and reseal witj threebond while its apart.

 

[oologahan]

Those plastic clamps are a known issue & have contributed to the demise of many of those saws (along with loose muffler, cylinder, & riser bolts).
What's the history of the saw... was it running before you rebuilt the carb? Does it have fresh fuel mix? Did you replace fuel filter? Fuel lines? Purge bulb (if fitted)?
Whats the compression like?
Have you checked piston through the exhaust for scoring?

The saw came to me from a friend who said it sat for several years, but was running , when he tried to start it it was a no go. Carb would not hold pressure, not terrible, but not good, it has fresh fuel and the fuel lines and filter are new, no primer bulb on this model, , seem like it has great compression and the cylinder and piston look very good. I'm leaning toward a intake boot/clamp. Thanks

 

[oologahan]

intake boot loose? plastic clamp? one turn out on adjustment screws?

I've sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boot and the saw runs until I stop spraying, It seems I have a leak around the partition, intake boot, clamp. Would you know how to remove the partition and intake boot, I've tried but I don't want to break the parts taking them off

 

[9050LX]

Partition and boot fit inside one another,invluding an orifice for impulse.has to be pulled from cylinder with carb disconnected.

 

[oologahan]

Partition and boot fit inside one another,invluding an orifice for impulse.has to be pulled from cylinder with carb disconnected.

I have the carb off, but I can't get the partition off even after unlocking the snap ring, I did want to break it

 

[J D]

That may be an indication of a problem... the rubber can go a bit "gooey" causing the impulse channel to close up

 

[9050LX]

The flange on the saw body pushes intake toward the cylinder.WD40 is great at making rubber slippery.

 

[J D]

It is much much easier to work on the intake with the cylinder off on those. You don't need to remove it completely, just take the bolts out so you can pivot it a bit. If the gasket comes apart then youll have to clean it up & replace it though.
I'd measure squish first as you may be able to delete the gasket while you're in there

 

[Chevboy0167]

Remove cylinder with intake and carb attached. Faster and easier. Also install the same way.

Trim plastic clamp and install new metal clamp. Husqvarna part number 505283309.

https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Husqvarna-Service-Repair-Manuals/W9901001.pdf

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/husqvarna-350-manifold-upgrade.327811/

 

[oologahan]

It is much much easier to work on the intake with the cylinder off on those. You don't need to remove it completely, just take the bolts out so you can pivot it a bit. If the gasket comes apart then youll have to clean it up & replace it though.
I'd measure squish first as you may be able to delete the gasket while you're in there

Thanks a bunch, I put it back together and now it wont even pop off, I need to bite the bullet and order all the the manifold parts and just start fresh

 

[J D]

It's easy to twist things wrong when it goes together & squash or kink the impulse passage or that short impulse tube. I have seen more than one with cracks or pinholes in that short tube... if you replace it, it has to be curly tube as the bend is too tight & straight tube will end up kinking