I bought a 359 etech today for $200 without a bar. I bought a 20 inch bar for the 455 rancher, because that's what the guy told me the saw was. It doesnt fit so I'm looking at bar and chain recommendations for the 359. What thickness chain runs well on these, .050 or .058. It looks like I can get the .058 bar a little cheaper. I've been looking into the saw, and might be porting it to get a few more umphs out of it. I'm not a pro, will probably run the saw few - several times a month.
Husqvarna 359 bar/chain
- Thread starter Dlillie87
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Also, just out of curiosity, did I get effed on the deal. The guy posted it as a 455 rancher, didn't come with a bar but does have a chain (no clue what size other than 20"). It runs, but havent been able to do anything since the bar and chain dont match. I'll tear into it tomorrow and get a better idea of what kind of shape it's in. But overall, a359 etech with no bar for $200, ok deal?
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Is the 455 Rancher not K095 mount as well?
Did whoever sell you the bar sell you the correct bar for a 455?
Use the gauge of chain that is most common to your area/dealers. I am guessing that will be 3/8" 0.050, sometimes 0.058 can be hard to find in the States and 0.050 is far more common.
As long as the drive sprocket is 3/8", you match the groove of the bar to the chain- you can run 0.050, 0.058, or 0.063- you just need to match the chain to the bar rail groove.
3/8 on that saw usually requires 72 drive links for a 20"bar. Count the drive links of the chain you have.
Did whoever sell you the bar sell you the correct bar for a 455?
Use the gauge of chain that is most common to your area/dealers. I am guessing that will be 3/8" 0.050, sometimes 0.058 can be hard to find in the States and 0.050 is far more common.
As long as the drive sprocket is 3/8", you match the groove of the bar to the chain- you can run 0.050, 0.058, or 0.063- you just need to match the chain to the bar rail groove.
3/8 on that saw usually requires 72 drive links for a 20"bar. Count the drive links of the chain you have.
It is definitely the correct bar for a 455. The chain is really tight in the rail and the saw won't spin it. The chain also doesnt seem to match with the sprocket on the tip of the bar.
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Okay, sounds like you have a mismatch of drive components.
You need to pull the clutch and confirm the drive sprocket is 3/8 inch preferably 7 tooth not 8.
You need to measure over 3 rivets of the chain you have and divide by 2 to confirm it is 3/8 (I am suspecting it is .325 and so possibly is the drive sprocket).
Then you need to read the stampings on your shiny new bar to see what pitch and gauge that is.
You need to pull the clutch and confirm the drive sprocket is 3/8 inch preferably 7 tooth not 8.
You need to measure over 3 rivets of the chain you have and divide by 2 to confirm it is 3/8 (I am suspecting it is .325 and so possibly is the drive sprocket).
Then you need to read the stampings on your shiny new bar to see what pitch and gauge that is.
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Looks like possibly you are trying to get 0/058 or 0.063 chain into a 0.050 groove.
Take a photo of the stampings on the bar, the numbers and such down by the bar stud slot and we can tell you what chain you need to suit that bar.
Take a photo of the stampings on the bar, the numbers and such down by the bar stud slot and we can tell you what chain you need to suit that bar.
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In that case- you probably have a 3/8 chain, 3/8 drive sprocket and a .325 bar- that combination do not work.
Ok that makes sense
Yea looks like it. I'll confirm tomorrow when I pull it apart. Which would you recommend I go with? I assume I could just change the drive sprocket to .325 and keep this bar. Or the other way around. I'm a rookie and had no clue it was this involved lol
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You can set it up with either- I prefer 3/8", but I ask a lot more of my own 2159 than most people and what it was designed for.
You decide on .325 or 3/8- but replace everything new- don't run old chains and drive sprockets on new bars, old chains on new drive sprockets etc. The worn part will accelerate wear on the new parts.
If going .325 I might suggest an 8 tooth drive sprocket would suit the saw better than a 7.
Take it to a shop, ask them what you need.
You decide on .325 or 3/8- but replace everything new- don't run old chains and drive sprockets on new bars, old chains on new drive sprockets etc. The worn part will accelerate wear on the new parts.
If going .325 I might suggest an 8 tooth drive sprocket would suit the saw better than a 7.
Take it to a shop, ask them what you need.
Welcome to A.S.!
The Husqvara 359 is a good saw, and could be a good deal, if it is in good condition. It is a bit larger, more powerful, and heavier than the 455 Rancher:
359
| Weight | 5.50 kg. |
|---|---|
| Engine power | 3.90 HP |
| Engine power | 2.90 kW |
| Cylinder displacement | 59.00 cc. |
455
| Engine Specification | |
|---|---|
| Displacement(cc) | 55.5cc |
| Power | 3.5 hp |
| Maximum Power Speed | 9000 rpm |
| Dimensions | |
|---|---|
| Weight (lbs.) | 12.8 pounds |
A lot of Husqvara saws come with .058 gauge chains, but it is up to you, and what is available in your area. If you buy online, you can pretty much get whatever you want.
Show us a photo of your drive sprocket? That might need replacing too, in which case, you can change the pitch of your chain too, at no additional cost.
Here is a related thread on it:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-359.153972/
Philbert
As Bob says, it will run either pitch fine. For pitch (3/8, .325, 3/8 LoPro, etc) saw sprocket/spur, chain, & bar (if a sprocket tip) MUST all match. For guage (.050, .058, .063) chain & bar need to match.
Picks of any markings on the chain & of other parts mentioned may help us make better suggestions.
I'd be happy to have the 359, as would most here I think.
Pull the muffler & check piston for any damage. Check clamp on intake boot as the plastic ones are known to come loose & that can distroy your saw (there's an updated metal clamp).
I prefer my 357XP with an 18" bar.
Welcome to AS
Picks of any markings on the chain & of other parts mentioned may help us make better suggestions.
I'd be happy to have the 359, as would most here I think.
Pull the muffler & check piston for any damage. Check clamp on intake boot as the plastic ones are known to come loose & that can distroy your saw (there's an updated metal clamp).
I prefer my 357XP with an 18" bar.
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As Bob says, it will run either pitch fine. For pitch (3/8, .325, 3/8 LoPro, etc) saw sprocket/spur, chain, & bar (if a sprocket tip) MUST all match. For guage (.050, .058, .063) chain & bar need to match.
Picks of any markings on the chain & of other parts mentioned may help us make better suggestions.
I'd be happy to have the 359, as would most here I think.
Pull the muffler & check piston for any damage. Check clamp on intake boot as the plastic ones are known to come loose & that can distroy your saw (there's an updated metal clamp).
I prefer my 357XP with an 18" bar.
Welcome to AS
That one should already have the metal clamp- being a later model EPA green fuel cap cat muffler type one?
Well spotted, I glanced over the pic's & missed that...
Further to my previous post I'll add gut the muffler if you take it off (or replace with a non cat one), pull the limiter caps & re-tune the saw.
Happy choppin
cranman1951
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I think if the saw is in good shape, you did OK at $200.....In my opinion a much better saw then the 455. I run 3/8 Oregon full chisel chain ....050.....on a Husqvarna bar and a 7 tooth sprocket and like that combo. Mine is stock with a Hyway popup and gasket delete and runs very strong. In my neck of the woods, a clean 359 with really nice bar and chain is at least $325
