Husqvarna 359 carb install & upgrade ??

[Acornhill]

ok i ordered my new 1 ZAM C3EL42 ZAMA CARB ASSM HUSQVARNA 357 359
1 HVP 503 92 85 02 CARB MOUNT 359
1 HVP 504 70 64 01 MUFFLER ASSM 357 359 (NON EPA)
1 HVP 537 43 88 01 CLAMP

once i get all of my parts in (most were back ordered) is there anything i should know to get the job done? is the swap easy and do i have everything i need? also should i mod the new muffler or leave it as is? also apply any lock tight on any bolts etc. what RPM's to set it at after completed install?

 

[thefox48]

All I can say is that is the best change you can make. I did my 359 about 2 years ago and it made a work of difference.
The carb switch is straight forward no big deal. It's a good idea to replace the other items also. I had a bad fuel filter also.
I did the muffler mod along with the rest. Runs super strong and starts like a dream. Pretty loud.

Larry

 

[nmurph]

You are going to have to loosen the cylinder mount bolts and tip the cylinder to mount the intake, so you may as well take the cylinder off and delete the base gasket. Measure the squish bf you take the cylinder off to make sure you have enough room to omit it. I have never seen a 359 that couldn't be run gasket-less. That, plus a MM, really, really wakes these saws up!!!

 

[Acornhill]

You are going to have to loosen the cylinder mount bolts and tip the cylinder to mount the intake, so you may as well take the cylinder off and delete the base gasket. Measure the squish bf you take the cylinder off to make sure you have enough room to omit it. I have never seen a 359 that couldn't be run gasket-less. That, plus a MM, really, really wakes these saws up!!!

Murph, do i use anything between the cylinder and base? (bonding agent three -Bond 1104 or Hondabond or dry?) am i looking for .030 correct? also i did order everything i need correct?

 

[JRHAWK9]

I'm going the other way with my ported 346XP....
I'm removing the OEM Zama and putting on a Walbro 199 (off a 359)...

All the needed parts, minus the Walbro 199, will be arriving tomorrow and then I'll be dropping everything off at tree monkey's where he's going to do the install with his rebuilt/corrected Walbro 199. I'm not sure why anyone would prefer an inferior Chinese Zama when you could have your Walbro fixed for less than the cost of that Zama. :msp_confused:

 

[Cantdog]

You are going to have to loosen the cylinder mount bolts and tip the cylinder to mount the intake, so you may as well take the cylinder off and delete the base gasket. Measure the squish bf you take the cylinder off to make sure you have enough room to omit it. I have never seen a 359 that couldn't be run gasket-less. That, plus a MM, really, really wakes these saws up!!!

Take this advise and pull the cyl...it turns a frustrating PITA job into a much more pleasant task right out on the bench where you can get at everything.

 

[nmurph]

I'm going the other way with my ported 346XP....
I'm removing the OEM Zama and putting on a Walbro 199 (off a 359)...

All the needed parts, minus the Walbro 199, will be arriving tomorrow and then I'll be dropping everything off at tree monkey's where he's going to do the install with his rebuilt/corrected Walbro 199. I'm not sure why anyone would prefer an inferior Chinese Zama when you could have your Walbro fixed for less than the cost of that Zama. :msp_confused:

If Walbro's are so superior, why is it that you have to fix them to get them to work. The Zama carbs work very well for ported saws. The Walbro's advantage is largely lost except for cutting cookies. For the average port job the Zama flows plenty of air and fuel.

Murph, do i use anything between the cylinder and base? (bonding agent three -Bond 1104 or Hondabond or dry?) am i looking for .030 correct? also i did order everything i need correct?

Yes, any of those will work--Yamabond 4, Hondabond 5, or Threebond 1104. Apply a thin layer to the crankcase and a thin layer to the cylinder base. Then give the parts a slight twist when you put them together.

Take this advise and pull the cyl...it turns a frustrating PITA job into a much more pleasant task right out on the bench where you can get at everything.

Yes...and you can delete the gasket.

 

[JRHAWK9]

If Walbro's are so superior, why is it that you have to fix them to get them to work. The Zama carbs work very well for ported saws. The Walbro's advantage is largely lost except for cutting cookies. For the average port job the Zama flows plenty of air and fuel.

I'm swapping for reasons other than performance alone, if I gain something, great. I mainly want to get rid of the primer as well as get rid of the oriental made carb in general......lol The little bit I have read, it does seem others with ported 346's have gained performance with the swap though.

 

[Acornhill]

If Walbro's are so superior, why is it that you have to fix them to get them to work. The Zama carbs work very well for ported saws. The Walbro's advantage is largely lost except for cutting cookies. For the average port job the Zama flows plenty of air and fuel.



Yes, any of those will work--Yamabond 4, Hondabond 5, or Threebond 1104. Apply a thin layer to the crankcase and a thin layer to the cylinder base. Then give the parts a slight twist when you put them together.



Yes...and you can delete the gasket.

Murph, i have all of the parts and will be doing the swap/mod this week. do i need to mod the new muffler or just install it (non EPA) do i need to use blue lok-tite on the threads? i should remove the handle etc as well to remove the cylinder correct to perform the carb install? i will be removing the cylinder and installing the new clamp and new carb mount and carb on at one time, than installing as one unit back into the saw? correct. sorry for all of the questions but only want to do it once. thanks Acornhill.

 

[nmurph]

Murph, i have all of the parts and will be doing the swap/mod this week. do i need to mod the new muffler or just install it (non EPA).

I would definitely MM.

do i need to use blue lok-tite on the threads?.

I would use red (permenant) Loctite. I found that using a very fine thread and not drilling the pilot hole any larger than needed made the bolt stay put better. I now braze a rivet nut into the muffler and use a socket cap bolt to hold the deflector in place.

i should remove the handle etc as well to remove the cylinder correct to perform the carb install? i will be removing the cylinder and installing the new clamp and new carb mount and carb on at one time, than installing as one unit back into the saw?.

You can install everything as a unit, but I prefer to install the intake onto the cylinder, then install the carb and muffler seperately. While I had it apart I would check the squish and try to get by without a base gasket. I have a MM 359 with a 357 crank and the squish is lowered, and this is a wood-cutting saw.

correct. sorry for all of the questions but only want to do it once. thanks Acornhill.

 

[Acornhill]

I would definitely MM. I would use red (permenant) Loctite. I found that using a very fine thread and not drilling the pilot hole any larger than needed made the bolt stay put better. I now braze a rivet nut into the muffler and use a socket cap bolt to hold the deflector in place.



You can install everything as a unit, but I prefer to install the intake onto the cylinder, then install the carb and muffler seperately. While I had it apart I would check the squish and try to get by without a base gasket. I have a MM 359 with a 357 crank and the squish is lowered, and this is a wood-cutting saw.

Murph, which mod should i do? i have seen several now, one being to grind out the front bolt mounting holes (sounds very easy) other is cut new hole on side with new deflector and screen. I have a stick welder but do not have a mig welder,