Husqvarna 372 Break In and Such

[Artemis]

So I've read some threads on breaking in a new saw, and since there is a plethora of opinions on how to break in a new saw, I was wondering what you think of my method? I was thinking that I would break in my new 372 by first mixing my fuel a little richer say 45:1. Then I would start with cutting some limbs and small stuff for the first tank, then move on to some cuts in about 12" wood with WOT until it gets nice and hot, then let the saw cool completely before continuing all over again. I'm then gonna consistently move to bigger logs and longer cuts for the following 10 or 15 tanks. Rinse and repeat. I will be getting my 372 soon and I can't wait! (Should i tune the H screw a little rich for break in?) Also, I'm curious as to how long a chainsaw engine (how many hours or so) will last before needing a rebuild? Like if it was getting used everyday for hard work?
Thanks for the replies, Im a bit of a newbie and I appreciate the feedback!

 

[smokey7]

My personal opinion start it let it idle to warm up slow. Shut it off cool down. Then start it put it in some good size wood and put a good lean at wfo to keep revs low. Rings seat best under heavy load. Just dont run it for cut after cut like that. Maybe 5 good 12" plus cuts let it idle then off. Start it up do say 10 cuts heavy load, check it over good then run it like normal. I just wont piss rev new motors. Your on the right track with heat cycle, just keep good load on the motor at wfo. Id run 40:1 or45:1 full time. Your dealer should have carb set up for you tho, unless autotune

 

[Ironworker]

I guess you can't go wrong with taking precautions, but two strokes are very simple and forgiven and as long as they are tuned properly you can pretty much run the piss out of them, but that's just me. Going a little rich on the oil is probably a good thing. Before saws are put on the market they go through some serious testing in all kinds of conditions.

 

[catbuster]

Let it warm up. Run it. Under heavy load. Then, let it cool down.

Done.

 

[Big_Wood]

My opinion is the same. Warm up, and run under heavy load while not piss revving it when it leaves load (which is something everybody on AS loves to do for some reason LOL). I run a whole tank through it like that, then let it cool down. It doesn't need to fully break in. It just need to be on the right path for proper brake in. Most people don't use a saw enough to know what a proper break in can do for ring life.

 

[Full Chisel]

Set your H needle a little rich(still 4 strokes a bit in the cut) for break in and run 40:1 mix. Don't worry about it too much, your 372 should last you a good long time if taken care of properly.

 

[blsnelling]

That's not enough oil for a 372XP, especially an XTorq like yours. I bought recommend you always run 32:1, no less than 40:1. It's a known fact that the big end rod bearing needs more oil.

Other than that, tune it a little rich, like 13,000, for a few tanks, and avoid long extended cuts. Always run at WOT when working the saw though.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I was thinking that I would break in my new 372 by first mixing my fuel a little richer say 45:1. [/QUOTE]


This is splitting hairs with 45:1 vs 50:1 but
More oil makes it leaner, not richer. Lean or rich is the fuel to air mix. The more oil you put, the less fuel. Therefore more oil, so lean.

If you decide to run more oil in the fuel, just keep in mind it will need to be tuned to compensate for that.

 

[Rx7man]

Going from 50:1 (2%) to 32:1(3%) is only a 1% decrease in the amount of fuel, but a 33% increase in the lubrication.. if you're that close to leaning out you're going to lean out as soon as the temp drops 10* or you go down 1000 ft in elevation... I think the 'dilution' of the fuel from oil is greatly exaggerated... if you're going from 50:1 to 16:1(6%) without retuning you might start running into problems. The extra lube from the oil is going to be more valuable than the decreased fuel at this point.

Rings need pressure to seat, so as many have said, start it up, check it over and tune it, start putting it under a load, but not for long times without a break... I do something like make a nice cut in a 20" piece of fir, come out of the cut, and blip the throttle a while (modest RPM's mean the fan works well and cools), maybe let it idle a little, then go back into it.. On something that turns 10,000+ RPM I don't think it takes all that long to break it in

 

[Rx7man]

Another thing is that OIL SEALS THE RINGS.. when the rings aren't sealing well (perhaps because they haven't seated yet), they get hotter from the combustion gasses passing by them... something you want to avoid.

Here's a link to a 2 stroke dirt bike magazine article that correlated oil and fuel mixes to power output
http://forum.dirtrider.com/discussion/7169620/spooge-101-/p1

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

I just put the gas in and run it..its worked so far.

 

[Artemis]

Another thing is that OIL SEALS THE RINGS.. when the rings aren't sealing well (perhaps because they haven't seated yet), they get hotter from the combustion gasses passing by them... something you want to avoid.

Here's a link to a 2 stroke dirt bike magazine article that correlated oil and fuel mixes to power output
http://forum.dirtrider.com/discussion/7169620/spooge-101-/p1

I'm like the article you shared, thanks!

 

[Rx7man]

I'm like the article you shared, thanks!

I think its the best one I've found yet, and it makes SENSE