Husqvarna 460

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Am in the process of rebuilding a 460 Rancher and am wondering whether or not to use Motoseal on the crankcase of the saw. I noticed when I took it apart that the crankcase had no sealer on it, just the regular factory rubber seals on the front and back.
 
A day or so ago I went ahead and assembled the 460 without the sealer and yes, it did have a leak. I couldn't get it to start cold without priming the cylinder and when it started I could tell it was running very lean. I had rebuilt one or two of these before with the sealer with no problems but got curious on this last one because I had noticed none of the saws had sealer. Guess from now on it's either Motoseal or Dirko plus new seals. Probably use the Dirko since it's a bit thicker..
 
put a thin smear on any clamshell case halves and seals even the ones with rubber gaskets, top and bottom of the rubber gaskets/seals. just enough you get a thin hair of sealant poke out from the case but no more than absolutely necessary. I learned that the same way you described on the weird husky metal/rubber version on their top handles.
 
Just cracked that 455 and put a thorough motolube layer over the gasket surfaces. I know you’re supposed to let it cure for 24+ hrs, but there’s no way I could resist putting a measly 7psi pressure and vacuum on the impulse line.

Before, I couldn’t pump it past a couple psi and that would immediately equalize. Now it holds vacuum like something out of a NASA lab.

Use your gasket sealant goop, kids.
 
Just cracked that 455 and put a thorough motolube layer over the gasket surfaces. I know you’re supposed to let it cure for 24+ hrs, but there’s no way I could resist putting a measly 7psi pressure and vacuum on the impulse line.

Before, I couldn’t pump it past a couple psi and that would immediately equalize. Now it holds vacuum like something out of a NASA lab.

Use your gasket sealant goop, kids.
I will from now on...
 
Wife had some women over to the house so I retreated to the garage, tore the 460 down and put it back together with the Motoseal (I was out of Dirko at the time) and, after replacing a fuel line on the primer bulb the saw started right up. I don't think I even had to adjust the carb from the one turn initial setting...
 
That's not retreating. It's advancing to the rear!

Glad to hear it was working so well! Still trying to open time to fire mine up. Tried to tune it in before I realized it was definitely a leak, and nothing I did had any effect. Like the carb didn't care one bit where the screws were.
 
Yeah, it was perfect timing, I was finishing up just as the ladies pulled out of my driveway..
Something else that may have contributed: The brand new fuel line from the carb to the primer bulb was split, and it wouldn't pump up. I have a feeling it wasn't Tygon but some cheap Chinese copy..
 
Yeah, it was perfect timing, I was finishing up just as the ladies pulled out of my driveway..
Something else that may have contributed: The brand new fuel line from the carb to the primer bulb was split, and it wouldn't pump up. I have a feeling it wasn't Tygon but some cheap Chinese copy..
I have some of the real Tygon but when I ordered some different sizes of it, it was fake. I gave up on getting real Tygon and have gone to Echo fuel line.
 

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