Husqvarna 61 low comp?

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When low comp is dicovered, rings or rings and piston?

  • Just rings

    Votes: 4 80.0%
  • Rings and piston

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Total voters
    5

Wandrew640

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So I got a husqvarna 61 rancher from an old woman, replaced the fuel filter and line and cleaned the carb. Started right up, cut okay, didnt wanna stay running after you let off the throttle. I finally bought a compression tester and the absolute highest reading I could get was 120. So what should i do. Rings? Piston and rings? I dobt really wanna cha ge the intake and everything or id do the 272 swap. I actually heard somewhere you could throw a 365 piston in the 61 cylinder and just end up with more comp due to a taller piston. Any help is much appreciated.
 
I think I would look inside the carburetor a little closer before going into the engine, sounds to me like you're not getting fuel through the idle circuit. Does it respond to adjustment?
What does the piston and cylinder look like through the exhaust port?
 
It responds to adjustment, i even have a tach on it. It wants to idle high. As in, stock idle is listed at 2400 and it will idle rough and eventually die. It stays running around 2900 or 3000. They didn't look scored. I bet there are no machine marks left on the piston though.
 
Got a few here
 

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Also, I was looking at prices for pistons and rings and I've found a replacement similar to the original (single ring) and a kit with a double ring. What's better and why?
 
What about the 120 compression reading? You dont think a ring would be good? And I know I need to tune the carb, I'm new to it so its a process haha. I already rebuilt it also
 
Im going to retest it. Hopefully nothing with the tester itself, its a brand new lisle. So when the saw dies after throttle, thats typical of a messy carb? If so ill tear it down again and give it an extra scrubbing.
 
Im going to retest it. Hopefully nothing with the tester itself, its a brand new lisle. So when the saw dies after throttle, thats typical of a messy carb? If so ill tear it down again and give it an extra scrubbing.
Not necessarily. It could just need fattened up on the L screw.
 
The last thing I would do is try tuning from advice from some dude on the internet who isn't there. Hold on I'll send you a link for a YouTube vid.
 
Yeah that guys video is great, thats what I watched before but ill have it on while tuning this time. And I was just trying to figure out the arborist lingo haha "fatten it up"
 
Yeah that guys video is great, thats what I watched before but ill have it on while tuning this time. And I was just trying to figure out the arborist lingo haha "fatten it up"

Fatten it up is a term for richen the mixture. It other words if someone says a engine is running a bit fat, it’s running a bit rich.
 
You don't need a new top end, you need a carb that is properly adjusted and if the one you have doesn't respond to adjusting, it probably needs to have the idle circuit cleaned. If you aren't up to tearing into the carb, at least try another carb before blaming low compression. I, for one, have had no problems with cheap carbs from China
 
I'd put a new ring on it, 120psi is very low. I think the 365 piston is shorter and would give you less compression. If I get out to my shop today I'll compare them and let you know.
 
How about new seals i think that would help take a look on your oilier pump there is a ring that seals the crank
 
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