Husqvarna T540xp fuel tank leak

[Stihlhead517]

I have a Husqvarna T540xp that was dropped and now the fuel tank leaks from a factory seam. I pressure tested the tank and the leak is coming from a factory seam. I don't see any cracks in the tank other than the seam. I know the best remedy is a new tank but let's pretend they're not available. Anybody have a way to seal up a leaking plastic fuel tank? Will Permatex or JB-Weld that's made for plastic fuel tanks hold up to the gas and oil? Any information will be greatly appreciated! Green arrow is the outside and red is inside the tank.

 

[bentel]

Attempting to repair a fuel tank is not recommended, especially when it comes to potential fuel leaks, but if I pretend with you...

There are specialized fuel tank repair kits available in the market that are designed to temporarily seal small leaks in plastic fuel tanks. These kits usually consist of epoxy or sealant specifically formulated for fuel resistance. Follow the instructions provided with the kit carefully.

 

[cscltd]

Can try “ seal-all” comes in yellow toothpaste type tube.
not a perment fix but is cheap and easy

 

[Stihlhead517]

Attempting to repair a fuel tank is not recommended, especially when it comes to potential fuel leaks, but if I pretend with you...

There are specialized fuel tank repair kits available in the market that are designed to temporarily seal small leaks in plastic fuel tanks. These kits usually consist of epoxy or sealant specifically formulated for fuel resistance. Follow the instructions provided with the kit carefully.

Ya, I'm with you on that. I will probably end up going with a new tank. If I was more confident welding It with an iron I would give that a try. When you look inside the tank you can see evidence that it had been welded from the factory.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Only melt the original plastic or other plastic from the same family. Glues and other adhesives are temporary. This will help:

 

[mbrick]

Can try “ seal-all” comes in yellow toothpaste type tube.
not a perment fix but is cheap and easy

Also recommend this. Found it at Ace.
The only adhesive I've found that is gas resistant! Works well. Cleaned well and applied on both sides of the small crack. Hasn't leaked since.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

My dislike with adhesives like seal all is they will eventually leak again, it’s only a temporary repair.

 

[mbrick]

My dislike with adhesives like seal all is they will eventually leak again, it’s only a temporary repair.

I think it depends on the size of the damage. But I tend to agree with you.

 

[dboyd351]

I have fiberglassed tanks that hold herbicides and they didn't leak and held up well. Some large fishing boats use gas tanks made of fiberglass, so it is obviously resistant to gas once cured.
I would layer a couple of pieces of fiberglass mat over the crack, sanding between layers.
It will be a permanent fix.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I think the plastic is PA6 or PA66. It may have the code on the bottom side somewhere???

 

[Stihlhead517]

Makes sense to me. I remember patching up canoe's with fiberglass and resin. That stuff is forever, as long as it can stand up to gas/oil.
Someone needs to take an old plastic gas tank and patch it up with several different methods of gas tank patch and fill it up with gas and see which ones work and which don't. Could take a while though.

 

[leaf]

There are two businesses that "weld" plastic frequently and with some success: 1) repair to ski "base"s (the part of the ski that runs along the snow), and 2) repair of the plastic "body" parts that are in modern cars. (With maybe a third -- which would be installation and and repair of certain (non-"rubber") flat roof coverings (TPO, PVC etc.) The better people in those businesses are cognizant regarding the welding, aware of compatibility / melt-point / burning, etc. etc. issues. Many of them have fairly sophisticated welding devices that are very accurately temperature controlled and "roll fed" and end up being, essentially, a "mig gun" for plastic. Others are just really talented with sticks of plastic material and various hot devices, Leister guns, etc.

It is always nice to have friends, or make them, but, with the cost of plastic gas cans and replacement weed-wopper fuels tanks, etc. etc. repair makes a certain sense these days. I have seen plastic tank repairs that some of the plastic car bumper guys have done. They look really good. And I've seen some pretty smooth, tight ski repairs.

 

[Husky77]

there are some good products available theses days, i used one in an old 80+ year old petrol tank, it came in a 250mm tin and directions were use it all in one go and coat the entire inside, then let it run out and dry. it was like a thick clear liquid and to this day it has never leaked. The key to any repair is in the preparation, if you skip on that and do half a job you cant blame the product. Preparation is number ONE.
If I find the product I will add a link but I think its uk made so may not be as economical with postage to USA.

update; I couldnt find the exact product I used but this is very similar Fuel Tank Sealer

hope that helps someone

 

[Chucksta]

I have an Echo 355T, that got into an argument with another saw in the back of the truck. The big Stihl kicked the Echo's butt, and cracked the gas tank, which, on the Echo, is part of the body of the saw. A new case was worth more than it was worth, so... Armed with nothing but a zip tie, ( hardest part was finding a zip tie the right colour), and a soldering iron, I had at it. There was no downside to trying, as nothing else I tried worked. I'd tried JB weld, Marine epoxy, and a few others that I can't remember.

I Dermeled the edges of the crack, and had at it with the soldering iron and zip tie.. Was it pretty? Ahhh heck no.. I treated the zip tie like a feed rod into a tig arc. 5 minutes later I was done. The solder tip looked a bit funky, and I used about 6 inches of zip tie.. It really was similar to welding metal, make sure that there's penetration, flow of material, etc. Used a soldering tip that had an end on it like a standard screwdriver, to finish the top of the "weld". Smoothed it out so to speak.

Hasn't leaked in 4, almost 5 years. I don't think anyone was more surprised than me. It was a last chance Hail Mary.

Yeah.. I know.. I know.. a very ghetto fix..

But it worked. I wasn't concerned with pretty, just with it not leaking.

The employee that didn't secure the saw was also damn glad that it got fixed for, basically "free".. I wasn't sure what to do with his sorry butt about it, the options ranged from time off to think about his stupidity, to paying for a new housing, to getting all the hated jobs for a while. After I fixed it, he was OCD, about equipment being properly secured for transport.. Lesson learned.

Forever after, the repaired 355T was named "Scarface".. LOL.. As we ran 2 of those ( otherwise identical), so, when anyone was sent to grab one of the 355Ts', it was now easier to differentiate between them.. " Hey, Louie!! Grab Scarface from the truck and get on that brush"..