Husvarna 2100 - what now?

[huskyhank]

Howdy,

I've been reading this site for a little while and I am amazed at the knowledge here. Thanks for letting me in!

I've owned, since new in 1983, a Husqvarna 2100CD. Its been a great saw all these years, spending a little time on my Alaskan chainsaw mill but mostly being used for cutting everything and anything other than trimming a little branch which I do with a much smaller saw (Husky 44). I kinda like a big saw as I'm never at a loss for power when I show up with this beast.

Fast forward about 25 years and I'm a little creaky and my saw is too. (but still looking pretty good for our ages - at least the saw is.... I take care of my stuff) Last 12 months or so I've replaced the fuel line and vent but the saw isn't 100% now. The new parts are adaptations from another Husky saw and I think the vent came from a weedeater. Even though I'm near a big city I don't have a good Husky dealer to fall back on - they're pretty much lawnmower people.

I just cut out a bunch of stumps and mostly my old saw did its magic but I spent a good bit of time fooling with it to keep it at tip top cutting. And goofing around for 3-4 weeks scrounging for parts is not appealing. So instead of being done with the stump removal a month ago, I finished this last weekend.

With that background in mind I need some help in figuring out what to do next. Following are a few scenarios I'm mulling over:

1) I'd like to bring the 2100 back to 100% but I don't know who can do that for me. Is there anyone out there who can breathe fresh life into my old saw? Its probably the nicest looking and well maintained 2100 short of an unused one and I'm kinda attached to it. And its a long, long way from being used up, but this might not be the smart move? Name names if you know of who to talk too.

2) I had been thinking that a new mid size saw like a 372 would be smart as I might be getting too old to hoss that big old saw all day long. But that would depend on getting my 2100 back to 100% because the mid-size saw won't do the milling.

3) If its not smart to refresh my 2100 I was thinking I would sell it and buy a 395 and have about the same power in a good bit lighter package. (about 5-6 pounds lighter) I kinda like that idea since I'd have all the goodness of my old saw and a new trouble free saw. And for anyone who has used a 395 and a 2100 -- am I giving up anything from the 2100 for a little milling and general use in good-sized hardwoods? And where to buy? The dealer here is kinda lame and I figure they offer no value to me since they don't really do chainsaws.

Money is always an issue but I'm willing to do something that gets me into a reliable saw I can count on.

Whadya think?

 

[andrethegiant70]

You are a wise man and a good dude to have an affection for your 2100. My answer is mixed as it depends on just how tight money is. If I were you I'd try to keep your saw (for all the reasons you state), but I don't think it would be out of line at all to come up with a more modern and reliable daily driver.

I myself would feel totally exposed if I had only one big saw to bring. Stuff happens, and things break... plan B is never an underrated plan. I like your choice of the 394/395, it would be a perfect choice for a die hard Husky fan, and one that is used to a heavier saw. I'd also point you towards a 3120, but the 3120 is not a reasonable choice in the midrange (where I percieve you have a bit of a gap). Kudos to you for lugging that 2100 around to cut 20-inch logs, but I would have been looking for a 60cc a while ago.

Keep your old friend, use it as plan B, and go find your self a nice 394 or 395. The 2100 may best it in the power characteristics category, but not by much. The weight, reliablility, and the parts availability will be real assets. If money is that much of an issue, 2100s fetch a nice price on EBAY.

 

[Banshee]

What is your 2100 doing? Maybe it just needs rings. I personlly would fix it.

 

[TRI955]

I would keep the 2100 and get it fixed, I'm sure somebody will be willing to help you out on it. Use the 2100 as back-up to a new 372XP, if your used to carrying the 2100 in the woods the 372 will feel like your carrying a toy!


Mike

PM sent....

 

[BIGBORE577]

I'd fix it if I were you. Great saw, one of Husky's best.

 

[huskyhank]

Some details:

The saw idles too fast (chain does not stop) and that's with the screw not touching the lever on the carb. (although sometimes it will idle right) Its got an old style brake on it - not something I can "lock" every time I put it down like on new saws. A little scary. It is hard to start unless hot, surges both in the cut and out. It takes spells of this then might run great for a tank or two. (oh joy!!) I found that sometimes I can open the gas cap and it straightens out for a very short while. Other times it'll cut OK then start acting up or go from acting up to running great. I suspect air leaks -and- air locks. This seems contradictory but it does not act in a consistent manner so I wonder if there is a condition(s) that varies with operating temperature?

I used to race 2 stroke motorcycles a long time ago so have some knowledge of how 2 strokes work. I might even fix this myself if I had every new gasket, hose, filter, valve, etc. to do a complete overhaul. I don't know if those parts even exist?

The cylinder and cases have never been apart and its got compression out the wazoo - you gotta pay attention when you pull it! The fuel line and vent assy did get killed by ethanol gas and that's when it got funky. (I have learned my lesson on that) The guy at the small engine place (not a chainsaw dealer but he's a pretty good mechanical minded kid) got it going again but its not really 100% and I don't trust it. I don't want to run it ragged and seize it. For a long time this thing has just honked when I needed it. I'd love to get back to that condition.

I'm thinking this needs a laying on of hands by a really good chainsaw witch doctor 'cause there's gonna be some fabrication and modification going on. Or it might be simpler than that? Maybe all those hoses and vents are hiding out there somewhere?

All comments are very appreciated.

 

[striperswaper]

to be safe do a pressure/vacuum test, if that is OK get a carb kit, fuel filter, take your time to clean the carb good put it back together and tune it with a tach then go buy a 361!

 

[drill.daddy]

I have a soft spot for the 2100 , love the saw and will not sell mine . I would saw get you a good mid sized saw to back up the 2100. If this saw has good compression and spark I would say rebuild the carb , change fuel lines and impulse lines and retune the carb , and run her for another 20 years . These saws aint hard at all to turn wrenches on , if you cant fix her box up the P.H.O. and send it to me and I would see if i could help you patch it up .
That might be a mistake to send it to me tho , my 2100 needs a brother and i would hate to bring it one in fix it up and send it back out.. lol .
Seriously , they dont make saws like they did when that one was built , i think you would regret selling it . p.m. me if i can be of any help.

 

[Banshee]

IMO it doesn't sound like it needs all too much. Maybe a carb kit and clean out the muffler. I'm just guessing though.

I still say fix it because it's one of Huskies best and one of the strongest saws ever made.

You can still find parts for them. My 2100 runs great, but it wasn't always so. When I first saw my 2100 hundred it had a crack tank and was running like crap.

A good used tank later, carb kit and some old fashion elbow grease and it runs just as well and any saw I own. Has compression that will take your arm off when it bites.

 

[belgian]

if it's running crazy sometimes and difficult to get stable rpm, I suspect leaky crank seals. Running the saw in different positions can have an influance on the degree of air leak, it can drive you crazy sometimes. A vacuum/pressure test will tell you. Hand it to me for a couple of hours and it's fixed. Not sure if I will sent it back though...:hmm3grin2orange:

seriously, get the bugs sorted out and you still have a nice back up saw. Too heavy for the average woodwork though imo.

 

[TRI955]

The simplest thing to do would be to throw a carb kit in it, you should be able to take care of that. If that doesn't take care of it, it will need to be pressure/vaccum tested to check for air leaks...

Mike

 

[huskyhank]

Thanks for all the PMs too!
:yourock:

OK, looks like I may try some things here. A carb kit seems in order and I think I can do that. Now about the pressure testing. How does that happen? Do the crank seals replace from the outside or????

Where to look for parts?

Husky dealer gave me the brush off - "they don't make parts for that anymore" so I don't think I'll find help there.

*************

As an side:
Its strange that there are 5-6 Stihl dealers not too far away, at least one of them is a good shop even if they do mostly lawn mowers. What did Husqvarna do to make that happen? Little representation in a market area of over 1 million people.

 

[constantine]

Howdy,

I've owned, since new in 1983, a Husqvarna 2100CD. Its been a great saw all these years, spending a little time on my Alaskan chainsaw mill but mostly being used for cutting everything and anything other than trimming a little branch which I do with a much smaller saw (Husky 44). I kinda like a big saw as I'm never at a loss for power when I show up with this beast.

Fast forward about 25 years and I'm a little creaky and my saw is too. (but still looking pretty good for our ages - at least the saw is.... I take care of my stuff) Last 12 months or so I've replaced the fuel line and vent but the saw isn't 100% now. The new parts are adaptations from another Husky saw and I think the vent came from a weedeater. Even though I'm near a big city I don't have a good Husky dealer to fall back on - they're pretty much lawnmower people.

...

Whadya think?

My hat is off to you, huskyhank. Take good care of your stuff and it will take good care of you. The folks here have some good ideas. No way would I sell the 2100 (I'm still kicking myself in the a** for unloading my 262XP for mere shekels), but something a little lighter in weight may be the ticket. If you're looking at a 372XP, I'd move fast, 'cause they won't be around much longer. (See the thread "372XP on the way out??") Since you're a Husqvarna fan, the 395XP makes a lot of sense. That way you can save the 2100 for special occasions, and have a two-saw rig to take out in the woods. When one saw gets pinched in the cut, you gotta do something! Depends on your budget - If you've got the cash, get both the 372 and the 395. If I had limited funds, I'd go for the 372 RIGHT NOW, since they are going to disappear.

On the 2100, sounds like the carb diaphragm may be shot. I'd put in a carb kit, new fuel filter, maybe a new starter rope. I'd also take the muffler apart and remove all the crud. Then put it back together and use it in good health!

 

[TRI955]

Thanks for all the PMs too!
:yourock:

OK, looks like I may try some things here. A carb kit seems in order and I think I can do that. Now about the pressure testing. How does that happen? Do the crank seals replace from the outside or????

Check this thread out....
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=112928&highlight=pressure+test

 

[husq2100]

crank seals can be replaced from the out side. Husky have 2 special tools, one that screws into the exsisting/old seal and then pops it out, then another that seats the seal at the correct depth. you could od this without the tools... a bent awl with remove and a small punch used wisely could seat it..... as the others have said, carb kit. they dont cost much and are pretty easy to install..

keep that beast. give here a full/rebuild and clean.

Serg

ps it does sound like some sort of air leak at this stage thats making it idle fast

 

[andrethegiant70]

ps it does sound like some sort of air leak at this stage thats making it idle fast

Well, it's running fast because it is running lean. The fuel system is not keeping up either because it is compromised (bad diaphram, obstruction, intake leak, blown throttle valve bushings, etc) or because there is air getting in somewhere else (head gasket, seals, cracked case, blah, blah) The most likely scenarios are either carb needs a rebuilt and fuel lines are toasted or the seals are shot.

There is a very strong likelihood that the required fix is no big deal. Finding the problem may be trickier. As another poster suggests, do a carb kit, they are easy. No matter what else is wrong with the saw, this is overdue. If that doesn't work, go get the case pressure tested. If it holds pressure, you have really scraped a lot of issues off the table. After that, there's really only a few other things it could be..... fuel line, plugged fuel filter, intake stack leak, or maybe a fuel tank vent.

Keep us posted!!

 

[Taxmantoo]

If loosening the fuel cap has anything to do with it, check the tank vent.
(but it doesn't sound like that's the only thing you have going on)

 

[huskyhank]

Here is the saw I'm writing about.
I shined it up a bit for you.

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<IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115202&d=1258601139"

<IMG SRC= "http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115203&d=1258601151"

 

[husq2100]

ill buy it :greenchainsaw:

KEEP THAT SAW!!!!!! even though i want it

id pull it down, put a carb kit through it, check piston and rings, you can still get rings for them....they are the same as either the 394 or 395 husky..someone will confirm that. check all hoses, new fuel filter, check tank vent. have someone pressure/vac test it if you cant, put new crank seals in it. they can still be got. and just give it some tlc.....

cheers, Serg

 

[huskyhank]

I'm going through the parts list now to get all the correct numbers.
I sure hope I can find them.