I bought a TimberKing B-20!

[sawyerboy79]

Hey Everyone,

Just wanted to say I finally got a Sawmill. It's a 1996 Timberking B-20. I absolutely love it. I've cut about 10 trees so far with it. I watched the video on servicing and maintaining the mill, but need some pointers on actually cutting the wood. I am planning on building a 60x80 pole barn very soon. I have started to cut 8x8's for the posts.

My question is what is the proper way to cut a bowed log. I have heard different things. Are you suppose to start with the arch pointing up or down?

Also cutting tapered logs, the mill has hydraulic toe boards on it. Should I measure the diameter of both ends and subtract them and divide by two? 30-36=6 /2=3 (So raise the smaller end up 3"??

Thanks for giving a nub some advice!

Kevin

 

[qbilder]

What I do with bowed logs is lay them flat like a banana, & mill that way. I always cut them in half so to get lumber that's twice as straight, though still a lil bowed. It'll be shorter but it's still lumber.

With taper, I lay the log flat & saw through just below the pith on the small end, then lay the top half down with the cut facing up & saw just below the pith again. This leaves me with two halves where the grain is parallel to the bark. It's pointless on a small log but works out really well with bigger logs over 18". It removes the pith from the log and leaves the halves with straight grain ready to make a cant from. The left over pith board can be resawn to remove the pith altogether, leaving you with two perfectly quarter sawn boards. This method overall works great for quarter sawing in general, but I use it for plain sawing too.

 

[Mac88]

Congratulations on acquiring the new mill. You do realize that pics are required here, or it didn't happen.

 

[qbilder]

Congratulations on acquiring the new mill. You do realize that pics are required here, or it didn't happen.

What he said :agree2:

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Congrats on the new mill!!

How are you going to keep those 8x8's from rotting?? I assume they aren't going in the ground, as there's nothing you can coat them with that will stop the rot if you put them in the ground... You can slow it down, but they will rot!

SR

 

[Dave Boyt]

Congratulations on the mill. I see much sawdust and bigger chain saws in your future. Qbuilder's technique for taper is the best, as far as yield goes, especially since the wood in the center of the log is lowest quality (pith, knots), but it takes more time & handling, and the mill may not have the clearance for the first cut. Your idea on calculating the lift is correct, but once you've done a few logs, you'll just eyeball it. All you are trying to do is keep the center line of the log parallel to the frame. Of course, you will forget to put the toe rollers down when you turn the log and have a flat side down, giving you a long, tapered board. Every log is different, but as far as curved logs go, turn them any way you can clamp them down securely. Starting out with the logs laying flat will give you flat surfaces to clamp onto when you turn the log with the curve up or down to square it into a cant. Either way, you'll lose a lot of wood. That's just the way it works.

Rob is right about the posts. Black locust will last a long time in the ground. Otherwise, use treated lumber.

You might also search for info on air drying lumber. Take your time, be careful, learn, and post pictures.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Also cutting tapered logs, the mill has hydraulic toe boards on it. Should I measure the diameter of both ends and subtract them and divide by two? 30-36=6 /2=3 (So raise the smaller end up 3"??

This really IS a tough question to answer, BECAUSE it all depends on what specie you are sawing and what you plan for the lumber once milled out. Keep in mind, the center of a log "isn't" always in the center! lol

If you want to mill your logs that way, then look at both ends of log. Then raise the center of the small end, to the same distance above the bunk that the center of the big end is.

I generally use this method for milling construction lumber and i think that is what you are wanting to mill now...

SR

 

[Wasuchi]

If you are putting poles in the ground I suggest old "telephone" poles, they are treated, plenty long (i got several in the 40' range) and can be had for free sometimes. I got around 30 of them last year free when they were replacing poles.... Guess they weren't free, slipped the guys in the trucks a couple $20's when they dropped them off. Just have to watch for when and where they do this kind of work.

 

[MotorSeven]

Nice mill, congrats. I saw bowed logs "horns up" first, then flip and saw off the "hump". Just keep flipping the cant 180 after each pass to relive as much tension as you can. Sometimes the boards will bow, other times they won't.