I really need help. SOLO 694 needs carb rebuild kit or...?

[Hoosier]

My Alpine Magnum stumper uses a SOLO 694 head, its a hos and I love it but last week it started to act non-responsive to the throttle. It would require me to feather the throttle to get the RPM's up but once it was up it would run like its typical self. I figured the carb was getting sketchy so I tried to adjust it and then ran into a problem with the low speed screw not doing anything good, it went from not starting to having a runaway RPM. I did find the idle screw would vibrate around, but even backed off it still runs away. Runaway RPM's on this thing is not good because of the heavy mass on the end and the only way to stop it is to choke it or bury it in the stump or the ground.

Anyway, I found that the nut holding the carb tight was a bit loose and I figured it was getting air and I snugged it with no improvement. I am looking for a rebuild kit for a tillotson hs-295a and am having no luck at all. Does anyone know who has this kit?

In the short term I am thinking I can pull the carb and make a new base gasket to get a better seal, I am guessing (hoping) that this could resolve the issue.

Does anyone have any idea who stocks this kit and do you have anything else I could check on to stop that runaway RPM?

 

[dozerdan]

Just go to your local saw shop and tell them you want a carb kit for a tillotson HS. They will take care of you. The tillotson OEM kit number RK-34HS

Later
Dan

 

[Hoosier]

Just go to your local saw shop and tell them you want a carb kit for a tillotson HS. They will take care of you. The tillotson OEM kit number RK-34HS

Later
Dan

Thanks Dan, I will get that part number. My local saw show is a Stihl dealer and they said Tillitson went out of business and they did not have anything like it.....figures. Ebay will work though.

 

[nstueve]

Sounds like you have an air leak more than a carb problem to me... I would replace impulse and gas lines. Sometimes a small hole or crack will cause erratic and high idles depending on when it is sucking air. If the carb kit, new gaskets, and fuel lines don't fix it I would move on to new oil seals. All parts can be found on a 9010 dolmar ipl and bought on cassada edge and engine...

 

[Hoosier]

Sounds like you have an air leak more than a carb problem to me... I would replace impulse and gas lines. Sometimes a small hole or crack will cause erratic and high idles depending on when it is sucking air. If the carb kit, new gaskets, and fuel lines don't fix it I would move on to new oil seals. All parts can be found on a 9010 dolmar ipl and bought on cassada edge and engine...

Thanks for the tips.
I gotta be honest I dont know how to tell the difference between the two lines, I see two lines, one is the smooth clear line (I guess it to be going to the gas tank) and one is a black hose with ribs?

Also, oil seals, whats involved with changing those? Is that like the crank end seals on a dirtbike? I would guess the saw needs to come down nearly all the way to do that on this thing?
Can they come out from the outside of the case or do I need to pull the crank to do this?

Will I require special tools to extract the old ones etc..?

 

[mdavlee]

You should be able to replace seals without splitting the cases. You may have to get a little creative to get the seals out.

 

[67L36Driver]

Thanks for the tips.
I gotta be honest I dont know how to tell the difference between the two lines, I see two lines, one is the smooth clear line (I guess it to be going to the gas tank) and one is a black hose with ribs?

Also, oil seals, whats involved with changing those? Is that like the crank end seals on a dirtbike? I would guess the saw needs to come down nearly all the way to do that on this thing?
Can they come out from the outside of the case or do I need to pull the crank to do this?

Will I require special tools to extract the old ones etc..?

Offhand, I'd say the ribbed line is fuel supply and the smooth is your impulse connection, given the internal layout of your typical Tilly HS.

I've had luck removing seals using a tiny sheet rock screw by drilling a 5/64" pilot hole in the metal rim of the seal. Grab the screw with a small vicegrip and lever it out.

Use a 1/2" drive deepwell socket over a large flat washer to drive the new one in.

 

[watsonr]

I'd replace those lines first, both of them and then see how it runs. I wouldn't run it at high speed if the idle is still messed up.

 

[Hoosier]

Also, just in case it matters ,when I do have it running with the air filter off I can see raw fuel blow back out of the carb in a misty spatter.

 

[watsonr]

Normally that's an indicator of bad rings/low compression. Have you tested that? Sounds like several things going on.

1 give it a new fuel line and filter
2 carb kit
3 give it a new impulse line
4 check compression
5 oil seals if it still doesn't want to run right.

high idle is usually seals, being that the low speed doesn't do anything, do 1-3 and try again.. high idle after 1-3.... seals
check compression either way, it may be getting low. Won't hurt to pull the muffler and look at the piston. This takes the same parts as the
Makita 9000/9010. Part saws are hard to come by for these.

 

[Hoosier]

Normally that's an indicator of bad rings/low compression. Have you tested that? Sounds like several things going on.

1 give it a new fuel line and filter
2 carb kit
3 give it a new impulse line
4 check compression
5 oil seals if it still doesn't want to run right.

high idle is usually seals, being that the low speed doesn't do anything, do 1-3 and try again.. high idle after 1-3.... seals
check compression either way, it may be getting low. Won't hurt to pull the muffler and look at the piston. This takes the same parts as the
Makita 9000/9010. Part saws are hard to come by for these.

Well, compression is up there for sure, that thing is a PITA to pull with no compression release, on a hot day it still kicks my but. I am fairly certain the motor is not hurt, but I have already determined that I will change power heads to another brand before I dump serious money into this saw head due to parts availability.

 

[nstueve]

The smooth one is the impulse hose and runs down and inside to the clutch side bottom edge of the cylinder. Ribbed = gas line. Fuel filter is same as husky.

 

[watsonr]

Well, compression is up there for sure, that thing is a PITA to pull with no compression release, on a hot day it still kicks my but. I am fairly certain the motor is not hurt, but I have already determined that I will change power heads to another brand before I dump serious money into this saw head due to parts availability.

Fuel line $8, filter $4, impulse line $3, carb kit $8..... run it... it needs seals $20.... $40 bucks is not serious money.

Like I said, its the same saw as the Makita 9000/9010 and it/they are some serious saws! I've got a 694 that is missing some body parts... if you sell, let me know.

 

[Little Al]

Thanks Dan, I will get that part number. My local saw show is a Stihl dealer and they said Tillitson went out of business and they did not have anything like it.....figures. Ebay will work though.

Sounds like your Stihl dealer is a bit out of touch. The Tillotson factory in Ireland Is very much alive & well & can supply alot of [from dealers] parts NLA & are an excellent company to deal with Their race carb division is very ative with Go kart etc. fuel system related stuff

 

[nstueve]

Fuel line $8, filter $4, impulse line $3, carb kit $8..... run it... it needs seals $20.... $40 bucks is not serious money.

Like I said, its the same saw as the Makita 9000/9010 and it/they are some serious saws! I've got a 694 that is missing some body parts... if you sell, let me know.

What are you missing? I might be able to help as I have a few spares around from doing my 9010 rebuild... Although the 694 body parts are the wrong color and I think the air boxes have a little different shape... either way let me know...

 

[Hoosier]

Thanks for the info guys. Parts are on order and I will pull it apart next week and service it and let you know what I end up with.

Watsonr, I was referring to serious damage to the short block, not tune up bits. With parts being hard to get for this saw I could switch to a used Stihl head from a concrete saw and get an adapter plate for the stumper.

Finding a big bore kit would really be the way to go if damage to the cylinder, bore or crank happens, I wonder if those exist? All I can find is big bore for my Dolmar 7900.

 

[watsonr]

I have a Dolmar 9000 piston in the box with rings. I also have a 694 that has a broken tank handle, compression is 115 and why I have the piston. Missing the front handle as well but I'm pretty sure it would be a good parts saw. I've not located a front or rear handle in two years, but haven't really looked either.

Send me a PM if your interested in making a deal, could be the answer your looking for without having to buy a new saw.

 

[Hoosier]

OK, I have the carb put back together but I cannot figure out that pulse line and how it routes.

It goes under the plastic housing that held the carb/air filter assy but I cannot get the intake boot off. It looks like the head/cylinder needs to come off at the same time so you can get the rubber boot off of the jug? It looks like the boot has a ridge thats riding in a grove on the engine so it wont just slide off.

How far does this saw need to come down just to get the pulse tube changed out? Has anyone here changed this tube?