If you run a saw at 12000 rpm. Oil to the crank and bearing is replaced pretty fast. I mean its put into the cylinder to be burned faster than I can get my face slapped.I guess we are not talking dumping 5 qts of oil and leaving it in a car for thousands of miles. It hardly has time to say hello and it is gone and replaced by fresh oil. Why premium oils?
If gas/oil is repleced 200 xs a second,whats the big deal?
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DanManofStihl
ArboristSite Guru
It is just that reason to use a premium oil because it is moving that fast and hot. If you just soem cheap oil it will not lubricate as well as a nice synthetic oil would. Besides 2 stroke oil is not that expensive to buy might as well buy the good stuff. Its worth it in the long run.
Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Keeping ash deposits to a minimum in the combustion chamber, promoting sufficient atomization with the fuel, many factors have to be considered. In a 2-stroke, it is not just the only lubricant, it is part of the fuel. Cheers.
NWCS
Addicted to ArboristSite
that answer gets a bit into it, you must consider the extreme RPM and the heavy load in a saw engine. then you bring in the air cooled factor, that means HOT running.. combine those and you DO need good oil to keep that sucker together! those cars are not turning 12,000RPM and doing it with only the oil thats in the gas, cars have the luxury of an oil pan and they get to keep their engines in one position. there are alot more factors working against saw engines and 2cycle engines in general. they flat out get worked!
cheap oil is going to want to seperate from the fuel, not protect bearings spinning at that extreme rate, or extreme load. also have to protect that piston at high heat and speed. sure you may be "changing the oil" constantly.. but what if that cheap oil seperated? then you have to deal with.. what oil? its not there! my saw just got straight gassed and fried itself! the blame usually falls on the saw or the company.. well it wasnt the saw it was that cheap oil after all.. it comes right down to the operator.. not the equipment.
cheap oil is going to want to seperate from the fuel, not protect bearings spinning at that extreme rate, or extreme load. also have to protect that piston at high heat and speed. sure you may be "changing the oil" constantly.. but what if that cheap oil seperated? then you have to deal with.. what oil? its not there! my saw just got straight gassed and fried itself! the blame usually falls on the saw or the company.. well it wasnt the saw it was that cheap oil after all.. it comes right down to the operator.. not the equipment.
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ben hit it HEAD ON. if you use a crappy oil, your saw can, and probably will stop running and seize up on you. use good quality oil, like a synthetic, or the Stihl, Echo, Husky, or Shindaiwa brand. any of the above, and synthetics are good to use, I've used the Echo, Stihl, and synthetic oils before, and I cant say I've had ANYTHING bad happen on em.
bugfart
ArboristSite Operative
When using synthetics (and thank you for stopping me from burning up my 'um, newly acquired ... saw) is there a product any here would suggest? I suppose I'll be starting off at 16:1 untill I foul the plugs and then move up toward a suspected 32:1?
Do the synthetics allow you to run it at a higher ratio?
And while I'm pouring out the ignorance; what would happen if you ran a product like "slick-50"?
Do the synthetics allow you to run it at a higher ratio?
And while I'm pouring out the ignorance; what would happen if you ran a product like "slick-50"?
ross_scott
ArboristSite Guru
I am about to move away from the castrol 2 stroke oil as I have found an autoparts retailer who stocks the 2 stroke oil that is made by pennzoil I swear by that brand as I use thier synthetic oil in my car so I may aswell run thier 2 stroke oil in my chainsaw, weedwhacker and lawn mower
NWCS
Addicted to ArboristSite
i run 32:1 in my saws, 16:1 is just too much even for me! if you were running alcohol in a hotsaw then i would say yes 16:1 but thats really the only need..
my main reason for using 32:1? i push my saws to the limits logging, i demand every bit of protection i can get. 50:1 is the standard with modern oils and does great even in vintage saws, but i really would NOT go with less oil.. some of those claims of 100:1 i see as suicide..
just keep in mind every ratio change will need a carb adjustment, when i changed from 50:1 to 32:1 my saws went lean (thicker fuel mix flows slower)
i had to adjust the carb richer just to get back to the just right level. now if i went back to 50:1 i would have to lean it out (thinner fuel mix flows through faster) because i would be real rich just because of the fuel ratio changes
my main reason for using 32:1? i push my saws to the limits logging, i demand every bit of protection i can get. 50:1 is the standard with modern oils and does great even in vintage saws, but i really would NOT go with less oil.. some of those claims of 100:1 i see as suicide..
just keep in mind every ratio change will need a carb adjustment, when i changed from 50:1 to 32:1 my saws went lean (thicker fuel mix flows slower)
i had to adjust the carb richer just to get back to the just right level. now if i went back to 50:1 i would have to lean it out (thinner fuel mix flows through faster) because i would be real rich just because of the fuel ratio changes
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
With synthetic oil just go with 50:1 ratio, it works, and wont foul plugs. 16:1 is WAY too much oil for a modern saw, unless you're using an old saw, and motor oil for cars.
BTW, DONT open the can of worms on oil ratios, its a big debate here among this board.
BTW, DONT open the can of worms on oil ratios, its a big debate here among this board.
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ross Scott and others looking for 2-stroke oil:
here in my area Pennzoil 2-stroke isn't the "good stuff". For stuff like chain saws and trimmers you want to look for oil that meets the international ISO-L-EGD standard, or the Japanese JASO-FC. This has to do with things like hot film strength, miscibility, and most importantly, what kinds of deposits it leaves in places like ring grooves and exhaust systems.
You can carefully use low-end oil in a chainsaw for years and still wreck it if glowing carbon starts a preignition condition, or more likeley, coked up ring grooves prevent the rings from working...in a worst case situation hot gases blow down along the piston causing a lube failure and siezure.
here in my area Pennzoil 2-stroke isn't the "good stuff". For stuff like chain saws and trimmers you want to look for oil that meets the international ISO-L-EGD standard, or the Japanese JASO-FC. This has to do with things like hot film strength, miscibility, and most importantly, what kinds of deposits it leaves in places like ring grooves and exhaust systems.
You can carefully use low-end oil in a chainsaw for years and still wreck it if glowing carbon starts a preignition condition, or more likeley, coked up ring grooves prevent the rings from working...in a worst case situation hot gases blow down along the piston causing a lube failure and siezure.
NWCS
Addicted to ArboristSite
im holding back on my comments about oil brands and ratios.. but its not easy!
bugfart
ArboristSite Operative
I've heard scuttlebutt about the fuel refineries cutting back on the stuff that stableizes consumer gas. First of all, I didn't even know it was used at that level, but i have heard from two sources that repair small engines about the number of gummed up carbs they've received.
1) Are these guys just whining?
2) Should I always use oil with stabelizer in it?
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295 poulan (which is actually a descent saw...so far)
Homelite imposter-90125
1) Are these guys just whining?
2) Should I always use oil with stabelizer in it?
------------------------------------------
295 poulan (which is actually a descent saw...so far)
Homelite imposter-90125
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
oil with a fuel stabilizer is ALWAYS a good idea imo. its one thing that saves ya a carb teardown to get the gink out later.
2Coilinveins
Former Member
You could probably run a good synthetic at 16:1 and still not foul a plug. I run Mobil Racing 2T @ 32:1 in all my 2 stroke stuff. I love how the engine runs cleaner, there's NO smoke after a brief white puff at startup, my girlfriend doesn't comment about two stroke stink sticking to my clothes. To top it all off, it's cheaper to run Mobil Racing 2T @ 32:1 than it is to run Stihl oil @ 50:1. Less money for better oil, just can't go wrong. I also add Sta-bil to my gas during the summer when my saws sit most of the time, but during the winter I burn through gas far too quickly to matter.
bugfart
ArboristSite Operative
Interesting, but, try at your own risk and the worm lid is closed. No more oil talk please. 
Max
ArboristSite Operative
bugfart said:
If you were thinking of mixing the Slick 50 with gas and running it for fuel
DON'T DO IT ! Slick 50 is for crank case lubrication, not fuel mix.
Their web site states 4 strokes only.
2Coilinveins
Former Member
Depending on who you ask, Slick 50 is for keeping the dust down in gravel driveways, and not much else.
