In need of several timbers quickly and inexpensively. A saw and mill from Farmertec?

[rustyb]

I'm not keen on the idea of buying a Chinese knock-off saw...or any other knock-off for that matter. However, I'm in a bind. I'm building a home that requires (5) 12"x12"x12' posts and a couple of 6"x16"x8' posts. The local sawmill I was planning to get these from is at least a month out. That could turn in to 2 months.

It looks like I could possibly get a saw, mill, and wood for the timbers at roughly half the cost the sawmill would charge. And, I wouldn't have to wait for the sawmill...which isn't an option anyway. Additionally, after milling, I'd have the saw and mill....though I may never have a need for them after this.

Would the Farmertec stuff be a viable option for me? If so, could you all advise on which saw, bar/chain, and mill? I've never milled before and would like something that I could figure out quickly...if there is such a thing. The posts I need don't need to be perfect...but I would like them to be good.

 

[ValleyForge]

Why not, they’re disposable….and you can sell the mill…

 

[Lightning Performance]

I'm not keen on the idea of buying a Chinese knock-off saw...or any other knock-off for that matter. However, I'm in a bind. I'm building a home that requires (5) 12"x12"x12' posts and a couple of 6"x16"x8' posts. The local sawmill I was planning to get these from is at least a month out. That could turn in to 2 months.

It looks like I could possibly get a saw, mill, and wood for the timbers at roughly half the cost the sawmill would charge. And, I wouldn't have to wait for the sawmill...which isn't an option anyway. Additionally, after milling, I'd have the saw and mill....though I may never have a need for them after this.

Would the Farmertec stuff be a viable option for me? If so, could you all advise on which saw, bar/chain, and mill? I've never milled before and would like something that I could figure out quickly...if there is such a thing. The posts I need don't need to be perfect...but I would like them to be good.

Tldr

You need to find a local guy like me or so so many others in my area. If you lived in PA.....
Get whole package with one stop shopping is best most times. I could've said more but I'm not a registered advertiser here.

By the time you buy a "good" saw and figure out whom to order one from you could have had a local doing the job on their weekend off. It is not a plug and play kind of thing if you want to be efficient at it. Granted having dozens of saws puts me way ahead on gear, setups and porting but learning to deal with longer or wider stuff efficiently isn't mastered in days. I've done tree work for over a decade and this is completely different. Milling is fairly easy if your well versed at it or cutting things under nine foot long or smaller softwoods. Good luck if you try.

If you do find a good local builder who does have what you need now or can ship it tomorrow you still need accessories and a cheap mill. Cheap bars and chains are just that cheap. When you get your cheap mill, I have two of those, it won't cut square or be square so find a good machine shop. The brackets are never right for more than one reason. Baring any of that you still have a steep learning curve on timbers for a home. Make sure the timber is cut right and from clear trees or it will move. If your doing green wet wood like oak good luck. Most stuff you won't and don't quarter saw unless its furniture grade, so you'll need big trees if you want stable wood that won't move too much of mostly heart wood hardwoods. Pine maybe your best bet using fat ones to start and make sure they were straight metal free and have no issues like bugs. Basically you need graded logs or you may be delivered firewood. Muddy stuff skidded is always fun too.

Your best bet is to buy a modified or ported OEM saw with some decent worth or trade value and have piece of mind. Getting a complete setup from someone who can supply the whole deal together is what you need and can point you right is your best bet imho. I can do no more here for you being I'm not an authorized seller here. Getting your chains ground right to cut said timbers without taking days or fighting the equipment makes it all go so much faster and smoother.
You need:
3 ft mill that is square
90cc power head modified or ported with mods
28" quality bar
A few loops maybe four of quality chain
A chain setup for your wood species and state of
Some decent sharpening skills or a local proficient at not destroying said loops
Eyes, ears, ect, ect, ect

Now you need to build or buy a decent straight edge or the ability to "jump" a shorter one and keep it straight.

Ordering quality logs is something I've never been able to do at decent price here so I cut and move my own up to thirty two foot. Mostly cutting beams twenty seven feet or less that get loaded and moved any real distance.

Let us know if it was worth it or would it be better to just buy them from any local with an alaskan already doing it. They are going to know far more about all of it than most homeowners. Don't be put off just know what your getting into. Once it's done the timber might need to be graded for building inspection. That requires someone to come out, approve and stamp them.

Bad time to do posts or beams right now not being kiln dried or sticker stacked in a wind tunnel. Mold is everywhere in the heat and you missed the spring sugars so not all bad to be cutting beams or posts right now. They dry fast so decide right away if your going to cut a check in one face. It will distort more but have less cracks overall.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I'm not keen on the idea of buying a Chinese knock-off saw...or any other knock-off for that matter. However, I'm in a bind. I'm building a home that requires (5) 12"x12"x12' posts and a couple of 6"x16"x8' posts. The local sawmill I was planning to get these from is at least a month out. That could turn in to 2 months.

It looks like I could possibly get a saw, mill, and wood for the timbers at roughly half the cost the sawmill would charge. And, I wouldn't have to wait for the sawmill...which isn't an option anyway. Additionally, after milling, I'd have the saw and mill....though I may never have a need for them after this.

Would the Farmertec stuff be a viable option for me? If so, could you all advise on which saw, bar/chain, and mill? I've never milled before and would like something that I could figure out quickly...if there is such a thing. The posts I need don't need to be perfect...but I would like them to be good.

A friend of mine has the G660 with a mill from farmertech and its been trouble free for 2 years of use. This year him and I replaced the coil for 13$. Definitely a set up that has paid for itself many times over.

 

[ollie73]

Don't overthink it. Your application is exactly where the clone saws shine. Get a G660 from a U.S. dealer (check the farmertec FB page to find a dealer nearby, or just go Amazon, up to you), and grab either a Granberg mill or an Amazon knock-off mill. A 24" bar and a couple of chains can be had for ~$150. Watch a couple of youtube videos, and off you go.

 

[Mad Professor]

There is a certain amount of skill in making structural beams that are square/true and will make grade for a house.

First off you will need to source decent logs/timber, sized large enough to box the heart. What species can you get local? Have you checked local building codes? Will you have to have them graded? How will you deal with using green timbers that will shrink, and may twist check, and/or warp.

You might be ahead of things hiring a local sawyer with a portable band mill. I think Woodmizer has a list of people using their mills.

 

[BrettS]

Go for it, a G660 and a Granberg mill and your away, my dad and I were milling some Kauri with his Granberg and Husky 50 and it went ok. You will pick it up pretty quick.

 

[rustyb]

Thank you all for the replies. And special thanks to Lightening Performance for the additional thoughts. Appreciate all the comments from everyone!

The local sawmill is very busy, has a long wait period, and didn't get back to me on an exact quote. So I called a mill a little further out. They quoted me an astonishing $5,000+!!! My wife got a lead at a local lumber store that had some cull timbers. So we went there, checked them out, and decided they were fine for what we needed. $345. I'm one happy camper!!

 

[Hickahollar]

I use a Alaskan sawmill just bought a cheap one from Amazon however I use a genuine sthil chainsaw either my 362 for smaller soft woods or my 880 for the hard woods and anything over 20 inches. That 880 and mill can be a bear to pick up. You need to be able to move the log and one that long is gonna take some muscle or a machine. That being said for 1 time use possibly I would probably go with about a 90cc Chinese clone. My buddy bought a g660 and man that thing runs hard and is a whole lot lighter than my 880. He uses my mill with his g660 from time to time and it cuts as fast or faster than my 880 and so far it's held up to the abuse.

 

[biggerstaff94]

Ive had a G660 for about 4 years now snd its been a good saw. Ive had to replace the recoil, wear plate, and the oil pump recently. Other than that it has a WCS bundle, 3/4 wrap handle, and 28” Stihl bar, shes been a work horse, never let me down. I wouldnt knock them until you try them.

 

[softdown]

Being able to mill your own wood would be a valuable skill.

 

[bryannewton]

I just got a neotec chainsaw
I found a guy company in NY that was saleing
New saws that had been return for some reason or another then saleing them for less then a new
I got a stihl660 neotec clone, bar and 3 chain for less $400

 

[Hickahollar]

I just got a neotec chainsaw
I found a guy company in NY that was saleing
New saws that had been return for some reason or another then saleing them for less then a new
I got a stihl660 neotec clone, bar and 3 chain for less $400

How's it run?

 

[bryannewton]

How's it run?

I haven't cut any wood yet its suppose to be alot cooler here tomorrow so I am going to try it out
But yesterday when I unboxed it and put bar and chain fuel and oil it popped on 2nd pull started on 3rd and it sounded good

 

[Lightning Performance]

I haven't cut any wood yet its suppose to be alot cooler here tomorrow so I am going to try it out
But yesterday when I unboxed it and put bar and chain fuel and oil it popped on 2nd pull started on 3rd and it sounded good

Everyone waiting around here is after it now with a week of low humidity and reasonable temperatures one would guess. I'm going over to the machine shop tonight and start on some new parts like Vstacks and few things. It's been in the sixties at night this week

 

[Lightning Performance]

I haven't cut any wood yet its suppose to be alot cooler here tomorrow so I am going to try it out
But yesterday when I unboxed it and put bar and chain fuel and oil it popped on 2nd pull started on 3rd and it sounded good

Let idol for a good long while out in the sun.