imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
The other day, someone was saying to me that one of the problems with huskies, besides the fact that they vibrate themselves to pieces, crack their mufflers, melt their plastics, Look tatty pretty quickly, wont sit on the ground without falling over, don't last very long and generally resemble sewing machines is that if you do a squish band cut on a 346xp and then machine the base of the cylinder to get your compression back up you're going to have issues. People say that to me all the time.
Having owned a few ported 346xp's with machined cylinder bases I'll admit it's true. Part of the problem is that the once round carb attachment point is now flat one one side. Part of the problem is that the carb boot can now no longer effectively seal, leading to air leaks. Part of the problem is that the impulse line then gets squashed by the flattened carb boot and sometimes causes fuel delivery issues. Part of the problem is the stupid husky clip that seals the boot to the cylinder. Let us pray.
The above image shows the scale of the problem. With much of the material removed from the base of the cylinder, the carb boot now has an extremely narrow round surface to seat on. Most builders try to solve the problem with some liquid gasket material.
With the carb boot itself now becoming flattened, chances are that the impulse line will get squashed as shown, leading to a poor seal.
At this late stage in the game, there isn't much you can do besides slice some off the impulse nipple so that the boot can slide fully in and allow a good seal. Note how flattened the boot has become over time on the bottom area and is coming away from the plastic surround there.
Husky has always had a problem with their stupid clips, that bend and never properly seal. If only there was some way of tensioning a ring to get it as tight as you needed? Amazingly there is. It's called a hose clamp, and everyone in the world is using it other than husky. Dig around at your local saw shop, I found part number 9771 021 2620 which I think is off a stihl concrete saw. It isn't as wide as I'd like, measuring 36mmx5mm, but it sure is a helluva improvement.
In the world we live in, there is goop in a tube for every situation. Confronted by a vast array of goop at my local auto shop I asked the guy for something fuel resistant high temp that would seal rubber to aluminum but was removable. He didn't bat an eyelid and responded as though I'd asked what time of day it was. "Threebond 1104 neo". There's probably a bunch of goop that would solve the problem so ask your local. Tightened the clamp up, and the saw is back in service. Hallelujah.
Having owned a few ported 346xp's with machined cylinder bases I'll admit it's true. Part of the problem is that the once round carb attachment point is now flat one one side. Part of the problem is that the carb boot can now no longer effectively seal, leading to air leaks. Part of the problem is that the impulse line then gets squashed by the flattened carb boot and sometimes causes fuel delivery issues. Part of the problem is the stupid husky clip that seals the boot to the cylinder. Let us pray.
The above image shows the scale of the problem. With much of the material removed from the base of the cylinder, the carb boot now has an extremely narrow round surface to seat on. Most builders try to solve the problem with some liquid gasket material.
With the carb boot itself now becoming flattened, chances are that the impulse line will get squashed as shown, leading to a poor seal.
At this late stage in the game, there isn't much you can do besides slice some off the impulse nipple so that the boot can slide fully in and allow a good seal. Note how flattened the boot has become over time on the bottom area and is coming away from the plastic surround there.
Husky has always had a problem with their stupid clips, that bend and never properly seal. If only there was some way of tensioning a ring to get it as tight as you needed? Amazingly there is. It's called a hose clamp, and everyone in the world is using it other than husky. Dig around at your local saw shop, I found part number 9771 021 2620 which I think is off a stihl concrete saw. It isn't as wide as I'd like, measuring 36mmx5mm, but it sure is a helluva improvement.
In the world we live in, there is goop in a tube for every situation. Confronted by a vast array of goop at my local auto shop I asked the guy for something fuel resistant high temp that would seal rubber to aluminum but was removable. He didn't bat an eyelid and responded as though I'd asked what time of day it was. "Threebond 1104 neo". There's probably a bunch of goop that would solve the problem so ask your local. Tightened the clamp up, and the saw is back in service. Hallelujah.
BTW, a 385/390XP clamp works great.
