Is it too much for the 288?

[Jimmy in NC]

Fixing to dive into milling and the first good log I find is a LARGE red oak tree. Beautiful wood and in a great location for access but it is probably 40-42" DBH so I know my 30" Granberg and 32" bar won't be big enough to make full width slabs. A good friend offered to let me use his 48" Oregon bar but it is setup .404 / .063 and it's an older Oregon 3-rivet tip bar. Right now the milling power head will be a 288 XP recently gone through by Mastermind and ported. I can get a .404 rim but would a 48" bar and 7-pin .404 rim be too much for the 288? I know an auxiliary oiler would be a must but I worry that the 288 won't have the gumption to pull that much bar milling; more of 3120 / 088 / 090 territory.

I could easily pick up a mini-mill for less than chain, rim, longer Granberg rails, etc. I hate to just buck this large stem into firewood but need help for a milling newbie to avoid being over whelmed.

 

[rarefish383]

Don't have the answers about the saw, but if you have a friend, you have an aux oiler. I use a ladder for my rails and keep a quart of oil between the rungs. I pour a puddle on the leading edge of the bar and you can see the chain pick up the oil, when the puddle is about gone I glob some more on. The last 2 logs I milled I think I had three 13 foot and 5 or 6, 9 foot slabs, and used about a quart. The slabs were about 22" wide by 2 1/2" thick, Joe.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Thanks for the input on the oiler. I think that an old style thumb pump oil can with a bit of rubber hose on the end with a helper pumping it will handle the oiling needs.

 

[IanB22]

40" oak is a big dog

The oak won't be an issue for the 288 in good shape (mastermind will do fine with it I think). The question is if the chain is in good shape and setup for a little slower milling, and running .404 will be a little more 'work' on the saw than running the 3/8 chain.

If I had money I would get a longer bar for my 288, and run 3/8 chain and see how it goes.

If I didn't have money, I would borrow and just go SLOWWW to make sure I am getting a consistant cut. Best investment for 'going slow' is a digital inferred thermometer and rev meter. IF the revs are good but the temp is going up and up in the cut, you have a problem. If the temp is fine and the revs are fine, then the 288 can handle the 40+ inch oak.

Also, you could just cut a few feet (like bucking) then let the saw idle to rest, then cut a few more feet and let it rest.
Just some thoughts.
Ian

 

[Jimmy in NC]

The oak won't be an issue for the 288 in good shape (mastermind will do fine with it I think). The question is if the chain is in good shape and setup for a little slower milling, and running .404 will be a little more 'work' on the saw than running the 3/8 chain.

If I had money I would get a longer bar for my 288, and run 3/8 chain and see how it goes.

If I didn't have money, I would borrow and just go SLOWWW to make sure I am getting a consistant cut. Best investment for 'going slow' is a digital inferred thermometer and rev meter. IF the revs are good but the temp is going up and up in the cut, you have a problem. If the temp is fine and the revs are fine, then the 288 can handle the 40+ inch oak.

Also, you could just cut a few feet (like bucking) then let the saw idle to rest, then cut a few more feet and let it rest.
Just some thoughts.
Ian

I'm thinking a 42" bar setup for 3/8 is where I need to get to. I also will need longer rails for the new Granberg. For right now I'm going to cut the log and just get it moved with the loader out of the way and see what the toy money looks like coming up. May just get a Mini-Mill and quarter saw the log and then attack... got some options.

 

[srcarr52]

I think you'll be fine. Just go slow and don't file the rakers too low. I would definitely build a gravity drip oil system though.

 

[HuskStihl]

I'd pick up a 42" 3/8, tune the saw so it quits 4 stroking only under a good load and go for it. If u'r running the 32:1 Bel Ray, its gonna be stinky

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I think you'll be fine. Just go slow and don't file the rakers too low. I would definitely build a gravity drip oil system though.

May order a .404 sprocket just to see how it goes... I've already got a large mount Stihl to Husky bar adapter so no real expense to try it out.

I'd pick up a 42" 3/8, tune the saw so it quits 4 stroking only under a good load and go for it. If u'r running the 32:1 Bel Ray, its gonna be stinky

BelRay stink?! H1R and MC1 take me back to my days of motor cross bikes and it's a sweet smell! Right now I'm running all my saws at 32:1 on Amsoil / E-Free fuel.

 

[Big Beech]

I would of said over top end capacity for the saw. steady as she goes and everything will need to be spot on. I would buy a new chain as well.

good luck

 

[tolman_paul]

The thing with the Granberg is it eats up a bit of bar length. I have a 36" Granberg and to get the full 36" out of it I need to use a 42" bar. If you're going to cut 40-42" on a Granberg you'll need a 48" bar.

 

[srcarr52]

The thing with the Granberg is it eats up a bit of bar length. I have a 36" Granberg and to get the full 36" out of it I need to use a 42" bar. If you're going to cut 40-42" on a Granberg you'll need a 48" bar.

Ditch the clamps, drill the bar tip and bolt through the bar. You'll get another 3" of cut out of your bar.

Yes the bar tips are hard and they suck to drill but just buy a carbide #4 (5/16 outside diameter) center drill for $21. Go slow and use lubrication and it will smoke through without any issues. I bought mine off a-zon (CDCA-4 #4 Solid Carbide Combined Drill and Countersink, victor machine).

 

[dustytools]

Have you thought about milling down as far as you can, then flip the log (if possible) and mill down as far as you can, then you can either cut through the pith freehand or roll the remainder of the log 90 degrees and start milling again. You don't necessarily have to have a real long bar to mill a large log. Best of luck to ya.

 

[mdavlee]

Good excuse to pick up a 088/880 or 3120 to go with a 50" bar.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Ditch the clamps, drill the bar tip and bolt through the bar. You'll get another 3" of cut out of your bar.

Yes the bar tips are hard and they suck to drill but just buy a carbide #4 (5/16 outside diameter) center drill for $21. Go slow and use lubrication and it will smoke through without any issues. I bought mine off a-zon (CDCA-4 #4 Solid Carbide Combined Drill and Countersink, victor machine).

Deff something I've thought about and with the welded on pads on my Granberg, plenty of material to drill and tap to.

Have you thought about milling down as far as you can, then flip the log (if possible) and mill down as far as you can, then you can either cut through the pith freehand or roll the remainder of the log 90 degrees and start milling again. You don't necessarily have to have a real long bar to mill a large log. Best of luck to ya.

That's the plan as of right now. Either do it by that tactic or use a MiniMill to knock it into more managable cants.

Good excuse to pick up a 088/880 or 3120 to go with a 50" bar.

Ohh I know... Would love to have a big saw.. right now it just isn't an option.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

It made the journey back home! Now to get into the woods.