Is there a mechanic in the house???

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treeman82

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So I just bought this Ford diesel with 122,000 on it. I went today to change out the glow plugs and got 7 of the 8 done without any major troubles. One of them however I managed to snap. It is presently flush with the manifold except for a hole in the very middle. A friend of mine who is / was a mechanic came over this evening and we tried to get it out with a couple of easy outs... tried drilling it a little bit too. Couldn't get it to come out. Applied some lubricant and put everything back figuring that I would just run it for a few days and then go try again in hopes that it would be loose. Well after my friend left I started the truck up and got a BIG POP out of it. Shut the truck down and I saw some smoke coming from where the snapped glow plug is.

I think that if I try a larger easy out tomorrow it may work, however I would appreciate any words of wisdom that you guys could / would give.
 
I can give a few links to some ford diesel web sites that have helped me out a bunch
www.dieselstop.com Go to the forums and look under 6.9 or 7.3.
www.oilburners.net go to the forums under 6.9 or 7.3 do a search of “glow plugs” and you will find a wealth of information.

Read this page

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Glow plug removal article.html

I have two ford 6.9 diesels. From how you writing I am thinking you have 6.9 or 7.3.

I know when you replace the glow plugs use only motorcraft or brue

Best of luck

Ethan
 
TreeMan82

If your useing the sprial style EZ's, put them back and get or make a fluted EZ-out.

Dont just try to back it out, as sometime gaulled threds will get worst.

With a good fluted hold, just try wraping Tq in both directions and a lot of tapping, it will come out if you take your time.

Kevin
 
What year is the truck? if its later than a 94.5, it'll have the powerstroke motor, if earlier, its an IDI. not too sure when the 6.9 was no longer offered and the 7.3 became standard.
 
ShoerFast said:
TreeMan82

If your useing the sprial style EZ's, put them back and get or make a fluted EZ-out.

Dont just try to back it out, as sometime gaulled threds will get worst.

With a good fluted hold, just try wraping Tq in both directions and a lot of tapping, it will come out if you take your time.

Kevin


Better yet, if you have the spiral type give them to someone you dont like.:laugh:

The fluted ones are great just dont hammer them in too hard or they will expandthe threads making them grip tighter and impossable to remove.:bang:
 
RaisedByWolves said:
Better yet, if you have the spiral type give them to someone you dont like.:laugh:

The fluted ones are great just dont hammer them in too hard or they will expandthe threads making them grip tighter and impossable to remove.:bang:

RaisedByWolves

About the only thing I ever see spiral EZ's work on are things like Ellen or Torex bolts or cap-screws. There not worth much.

Here is a good way to make your own task specific fluted EZ-Out. I live to make stuff like this, it's a little off-da-farm, but thought I would share!

I like these in most cases better then a store bought, as you can turn them with a wrench or socket.

Find the hardest bolt you can, generally the further you get into the middle of an engine, the harder the bolts are, like a rod cap or main brg, cap bolts are usually made out of a 4815 heat-treatable steel (the bolt your looking for usually looks like it's been blued like a gun barrel)

The first thing you need to do is anneal it, by heating it till a magnet wont stick to it, figure out how your going to let it cool the slowest way you can think of,,,, letting it sit in the coals of a wood fire and let the fire go out slow, is the best, but heat it to a good cherry red and cover it with floor dry or ashes will work.

Cut it to a good length to work with, and grind the end like a 4-cornered hand made nail, about that same taper also, Demerel tools or small cut off wheels can back-cut and sharpen the flutes, but a 3-cornered file will work better, keep sizing it so that it fits finger tight about half way up the flutes in the part your working on.

There are a lot of ways to do this better then I'm describing here, but this will work.

Vice-grip the head and buff the flutes, as glossy smooth as you can get it, point it right into a propane torch and slowly move the flutes into the the flame, inch by inch if you need to, you are looking for color as it heats up. As it will go from a pale yellow, straw yellow, yellow/brown and then some were in a yellow brown - deep purple, quench it in engine oil. (the thicker the oil, the deeper the purple you want) If it gets blue-hot, you need to air cool, re-polish it and start over, but as long as it just past yellow, you can repeat and quench it as many times as you want.

The next part will make it usable, there 2 easy ways to do it, one, wrap it in tin-foil and toss it in your oven, set it as hot as it goes, on bake, broiler heat will wreck it, you want 475 - 525 deg for at least an hour, but the longer the better.

Or take an old deep fat fryer, and just toss it in and set it as high as the oil will take it, again the longer the better.

just let it cool anyway you want from there.

This will give you an EZ-out that will just about start to twist before it snaps, it will have some feel to it, and if it did brake in the hole, wont say it would drill easy, but it will drill, as a file will just touch it.
Most store-boughts, if they brake, your screwed. But if you want it that hard, just take it past blue, till a magnet wont stick, and drop it in water , and repeat the bake, a file wont touch it.

Kevin
 
ok... I've got some bad news for you.

if glow plug was stuck hard enough to break upon removal attempt. what makes you think an easy out will work?

an easy-out will be smaller in diameter/strength to original glow plug body.

what you need to do is remove what is causing glow plug to size. soaking in penatrating fluid at least overnight for a beginer. take a small hammer and hit near area to assist in penatration. before trying the eaze-out.

sometime heating up will help. but the for sure way to remove is to drill it out in progressive stages. but the iron filings will go into piston.

arggghhh you are in a tuff spot... sure hope glow plug releases after penatrating oil works in.

next time use anti-size compound.
 
I have a 2000 Ford F350 with the 7.3. I thought I had a glow plug problem but it turned out it was a glow plug relay. The plugs were OK and not replaced. As for EZ outs I never have much luck with them. I'm not a diesel mechanic and I wish you all the luck. Its got to be frustrating.
 
Kevin, your method is not so much off the farm as it is deepfried!:)


Sounds like you have Shadetree metallurgy down to an art form.:cheers:
 
RaisedByWolves said:
Kevin, your method is not so much off the farm as it is deepfried!:)


Sounds like you have Shadetree metallurgy down to an art form.:cheers:

Why thank You!

That and I worked for a couple Ford dearerships, from way back when the power-strock was a Binder engine (as in corn-binder International engine) and after Cat worked some majic with it.

But with glow plugs wanting to gall is still the same, just my swag, but I think that the electricicity pits the treads, mini-spot welds it so to speak, if thats whats makeing them want to stick, intell slowly wraping TQ in both directions brakes the weld, no amount of penatrating oil will help metel stuck to metel.

:cheers:
 
Looks like the truck is going to the mechanic. Apparently the element DID fall into the engine, and that's not something that I or my buddy can do with what we have available to us.
 
I've got 3 opinions in front of me.

1) Pull the stuck plug, stick a new one in and hope for the best. - can do it myself or with help

2) Pull off the exhaust manifold and try to fish it out from the top of the piston- can do it with mechanic friend

3) Take the whole head off and go looking. $2,000< at the mechanic
 
by fireing up the motor in your first post, resulting in a big pop. you may have already destroyed your piston.

if the tip dropped into motor, then you fireup motor. You will do serious damage. there is no way for tip to pass, but will tumble around in bore.

if you had not started up your motor, it would have been possible to vacum out pieces without taking off the head.

high probability when you take the heads off, you will be looking at serious damage.

treeman82 said:
I've got 3 opinions in front of me.

1) Pull the stuck plug, stick a new one in and hope for the best. - can do it myself or with help

2) Pull off the exhaust manifold and try to fish it out from the top of the piston- can do it with mechanic friend

3) Take the whole head off and go looking. $2,000< at the mechanic
 
I might have a positive vibe going for me here. Then again my mechanical skills are very limitted as I have already proven.

A different friend of mine and I figured out that the BANG I heard might just have been a backfire. When I started the truck the other day (prior to the glow plug fiasco) it backfired then too.

On top of that, I went into the auto part store and asked if the elements are made of ceramic or steel... the guy in there said typically ceramic, so hopefully the piston just destroyed the element and that will allow me to suck it up through the vacuum.
 
I'm in the middle of blowing compressed air in and sucking with the shop vac. Been finding little bits and pieces of black coming out into the shop vac's holding container. I've also been shooting just air in there and am hearing a tiny little ping when I stop the air. I would assume that the ping is the glow plug hitting the top of the piston? How would I know if I have sucked it all out if all I am getting is little bits and pieces of black? Would it then be safe to drill the stuck plug?
 
Hello, I am a diesel mechanic, you need to pull the head. What year truck is it? The piston will not crush up the tip, it will break the piston. There is no clearance between the top of the piston and the head at TDC. You never said if the tip is still in the hole, did it fall into the cylinder, or get blown out. The tips will get loaded up with carbon and become fatter then the hole. When you tried to force the tip through the smaller hole by unscrewing the GP it pulled the tip off. There are no threads on the tip, so a E-Z out will not work. If you decide to pull the head you will need a engine hoist because the heads weigh around #125 each.
If your mechanic quoted you $2000 just to R&R one head they are raping you, go elsewhere. That is 33 hours @ 60$/hr. The labor rate for R&R the entire dang engine is only 22 hrs.
 
My buddy the mechanic is now trying to find me somebody from his work place (heavy equipment shop) to see if they want a side job doing this. He says those guys DO have the equipment, shop, etc. to do it properly. So the price won't be tooooo bad. Figure if it costs me another $1,000 I can live with that. $2,000 - $3,000+ is something I would have a big problem with.

Right now I am just taking care of other things with the truck until this glow plug issue is resolved;

new headlights
tail pipe installation
fuel filter removal (installation after manifold job)
oil filter (again after manifold)
taking off bug guard which says "Born at night, but not last night."

It is a `93 BTW.
 
A cheap upgrade for an exhaust is to get your hands on a SuperDuty exhaust that is being discarded after a aftermarket exhaust install. The stock SD muffler is not the greatest but the pipes are 3.5" and will work with a little hangar modification. You can also get a new Walker/Dynomax 4" aluminumized over the axle" pipe from Advanced Auto. I can't remember the exact part #. Just have them order the one for a 2000 F350 SD with the PSD. A real good muffler is a OEM 94.5-97 PSD muffler, straight through design, not real loud.
 
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