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Incomplete

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Two questions today:

What is the best resource for diagnosing and treating ailing trees? I'm thinking more along the lines of a texbook and not a junior college course.

Second question:

View attachment 228397View attachment 228398

How do I arrest this hollowing out? I pruned this apple and its mate for the first time in their lives. They got a substancial heading off as there was much dead wood and fruit wood WAY beyond any hope of effecient picking.
 
I wondered about expanding foam. But if you dont' think it will make a difference, than I'll forgo the expense to my homeowner and my labor.
 
Lots of reading do,you must, filling cavities, with anything, is not the way of the force
 
Yes, seeing I am that get I must all the Shigo books.

I understand that topping is out of style. Let me explain my background: my grandfather owned thousand of acres of peaches in the San Jaquine Valley in California. Before I was born, before '79, there was one season where the canneries refused to take any fruit. EVERYONES fruit rotted on the trees. My grand father, a brilliant business man, ripped all his peaches out and planted almonds, a fruit that can be stored indefinitely if stored propperly. The common practice then, for all fruit bearers was strait horizontal topping. It is from my father, who managed my grandfathers property, that I have learned some of my arborculture. And I have been reading, for the last couple of years, how evil topping is.

I know that topping is completely wrong for decorative trees, like forest trees that have been domesticated. This is just instinctual for me. But what about fruit trees? How do maintain a desired hight in non-dwarf species without topping? And before you say "heading" how is that sufficient to maintain height and if you do head them enough to maintain height isn't that just toppping under a different name?
 
Ok Yoda and obi1, A lot of the old germans that raise peaches in the texas hill country box prune the trees to keep them in rows and at appropriate hieght, and so they can run those runway de-icers down the rows, as they often get late freezes, they still go with the concept that 4 year old wood fruits best, seems to work for them, Stone wall and Fredricksberg are world renowned for thier peaches, usually culled with a hailstorm or flatline wind or two. its more of a pollarding than topping as they go back to knob of previous prunning,
There is an online article by Shigo on cavity and enzemes on tinning to allow support for callus tissue and wound wood roll over as it "seals" the tree, but now cant find it,
Topping is cutting back 1/3 or more to no other sustainable lateral,leaving an unsustainable knub.
Header or reduction cuts are cutting back up to 25% of produceing foliage to a sustainable lateral of at least 1/3 the diameter of the parent stem, IMO
Paul
 
Okay. Thats a relief then. I haven't been topping senselessly, but deffinitely more along the line heading and reduction. Whewww. Must be my keen, force driven instincts. :msp_biggrin:
 
Second question:

View attachment 228397View attachment 228398

How do I arrest this hollowing out? I pruned this apple and its mate for the first time in their lives. They got a substancial heading off as there was much dead wood and fruit wood WAY beyond any hope of effecient picking.

Little hard to see from the angle the photos are taken from but just make sure that the pruning cuts are close and just above the branch collar so that the cut will callous over quickly and efficiently.
 
Little hard to see from the angle the photos are taken from but just make sure that the pruning cuts are close and just above the branch collar so that the cut will callous over quickly and efficiently.

Yup. All cuts made just at collar. And yeah, I loaded the photos before I realisef they were sideways. If you stand on one foot, stick out your tongue and tilt your head to the side, they look perfect. :msp_tongue:
 
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