Is there any reverse lookup of stihl parts?

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scut207

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Im looking for a method to take a part number and see which saws used that part?

I could probably code it, if it doesnt exist. but I would need every IPL in existence.

Would anyone find it useful?
 
Well thats exactly what I am thinking, a "where used" style part lookup. is that a proprietary software or is it public space?

I was thinking all the parts for chain oiling on a MS 440.

I'm pretty novice at mechanical stuff.

I hit a lead slug cutting a large elm, so I replaced the chain when I saw it. Doing so I ignorantly had the bar upside-down and there was no port for the oil to come through the bar.

Everything I read pointed to you could flip the bar, but I guess I was wrong there is only an oiler hole on one side. I didnt even know to check honestly. I ran the saw for about 15-20 min in wood and I noticed it was working harder than it should and the bar was blueing with a brand new chain. I noticed a lot of oil on the muffler side of the bar, I took it out and did a test against a piece of cardboard but I am not getting drops when I rev it.

Can a clogged/blocked port destroy the oiler or does it have another egress? I'm imagining it could overwork the the plastic worm gear and detach it from the metal arm.

So before I dug into the saw I was going to order parts to have on hand.
 
Well thats exactly what I am thinking, a "where used" style part lookup. is that a proprietary software or is it public space?

I was thinking all the parts for chain oiling on a MS 440.

I'm pretty novice at mechanical stuff.

I hit a lead slug cutting a large elm, so I replaced the chain when I saw it. Doing so I ignorantly had the bar upside-down and there was no port for the oil to come through the bar.
Lead slug shouldn't hurt steel. What kind of bar doesn't have an oil hole in both sides?

Can a clogged/blocked port destroy the oiler or does it have another egress? I'm imagining it could overwork the the plastic worm gear and detach it from the metal arm.
Shouldn't hurt the oiler at all but you need to fix the bar or get the correct one.
 
well I ran it for a tank of gas in wood. started with full both oil and gas, at about 1/8th tank of gas or less the oil tank was bout 1/8th as well. Seems to be keeping pace which I think is what I should be shooting for.

Links aren't dry per se, they have a sheen, but the bar doesn't have as much oil as what I image would be needed I guess, I have the oil screw opened up. Im used to it kinda shooting from the front if I rev against a piece of cardboard on other saws. With this saw I just get a drop or two.

Could not get it started for love nor money after I filled her back up. but I was tired as hell at the end of the day. I did my first climb in about 24sh years with my 015. I only got about 40sh ft up and the wind started up with 30mph gusts. Tree was sketchy anywho, but whatever stem I was working I was tied off MRS style on an complete other stem. but when the wind hit, I told myself, this is dumb, youre tired, youre likely to make a mistake, your the highest youve been in a long time. So I just unhoooked and went down the MRS nice and slow and cleaned up.

managed to steer some limbs in tight drop zone and had a neighbor help ground for me with some real minor (<6" stuff) negative rigging and dropping some tip ties. My limb walking game is arse compared to when I was fresh out of the army. My gear is that old cept the rope and the 2 in 1 I made, real old school aluminum spikes and a lineman belt, which is all anyone had back then.

Had a full play set 20ft at Zero Degrees, a neighbors chain-link fence running 10 feet from the base of the tree and her garage was about 20ft at the 270, I had my deck which it corner was about 30 ft at about 120. My drops were tight, but I dint nick a thing even with some 20+ft branches.
 
well I ran it for a tank of gas in wood. started with full both oil and gas, at about 1/4 tank of gas the oil tank was bout 1/4 as well. Seems to be keeping pace which I think is what I should be shooting for.

Links aren't dry per se, they have a sheen, but the bar doesn't have as much oil as what I image would be needed I guess, I have the oil screw opened up. Im used to it kinda shooting from the front if I rev against a piece of cardboard on other saws. With this saw I just get a drop or two.
Try cleaning out the groove in the bar and hole from the oil outlet.
 
did a complete clean and shot some air through it before I started. possibly just weak oiler.
 
I find 9 x out of 10 punching the part number into google brings up a bunch of e-bay listing's etc which you can use to derive where else the part is used
 
did a complete clean and shot some air through it before I started. possibly just weak oiler.
MS440 oilers (and most of the newer saws) are significantly "weaker" than some of the older ones. These pumps can also collect sawdust and crud in them which lowers the output even more. Most can be disassembled by pushing out a roll pin and cleaned. You might want to poke around the forum for any possible oiler "upgrades" for an MS440.
 
Thank you, I didn’t know that (large list falls under that column).
 
Turns out there was an oil hole on both sides of the bar. I didnt have my readers on and it was caked full and looked like a spot of gook.

Saw is oiling 1:1 with gas refill. I dunno maybe just using some of the older saws that I do, I expected it to be gushing. as @SteveSr pointed out, probably a weak pump which it seems normal?
 

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