JB Weld broken handle??

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Overlooker

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Homelite XL 923 broken handle and missing a chunk of metal the size of a nickel:
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Here's the void I need to fill:
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Has anyone got a better suggestion besides dropping $150 on a replacement airbox? Thanks, O.
 
Homelite XL 923 broken handle and missing a chunk of metal the size of a nickel:
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Here's the void I need to fill:
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Has anyone got a better suggestion besides dropping $150 on a replacement airbox? Thanks, O.
My experience in these kind of repairs with epoxy type compounds says that you have a 50-50 chance of it working, use something inside the repair to give the JB some structure, kinda like re-bar in concrete. Document the process and share some pics! Do not use the quick setting formula, it's not as strong.
 
Is it structural / needing to take forces? If so it should be welded. If it’s not, you could build it up with jb weld in small increments using tape as a dam. Sand and key the handle mating surfaces. Make sure that each time the jb has cured you wash it with soapy water to remove the amine blush. Let it dry, key the surface and repeat.

I have used Jb weld many times for very tricky repairs and had good success, but be prepared for many days or weeks to complete the repair.

Alternatively, use some decent putty like “sellys kneed it” sand, key and prep the mating surface and squeeze a lump in. Roughly shape it, let it cure (it’s 5 minutes) then start with the dremel shaping it.

Again if it is required to withstand any forces, forget it. Weld or replace. If in doubt, weld or replace.
 
Most important thing is to degrease the snot out of it. I'd use brake cleaner. I would also scuff up the metal and remove the paint with sandpaper before degreasing to give the epoxy more tooth to adhere to. Also, where the metal originally cracked off -- where you can see the cross-section of the metal and all its pores which are now filled with oil and trash -- I would be tempted to take that down some with a file or something, then degrease with about half a can of brake cleaner, then blow off with compressed air, then epoxy.

You don't need months to do this...an afternoon should be sufficient, with 24 hrs after that for it to completely cure.

For more/better adhesion, I would consider using some liquid-type (unfilled) epoxy for the first coat on the bare metal, then immediately follow up with the JB Weld. (You need to get the JB Weld on top of the base coat before it fully hardens -- you should still be able to dig your fingernail into the base coat when you apply the second coat -- for it to bind together chemically without the need for deblushing.) As Guadatoast says, if you allow the first coat to fully harden, you'll need to deblush first before applying subsequent coats -- and in that case, your bonding will be purely mechanical rather than molecular....

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

ETA: I have to say I really like atpchas's idea (in post 11 below) of attaching some metal to hold things together and serve as a kind of "scaffolding" for the epoxy to adhere to...wish I had thought of that yesterday...it's a damn good idea. I'd probably drill pilot holes in the saw handle, then attach the additional metal with sheet metal screws. (They're really only there to hold it in place until the epoxy composite hardens.) I might also punch some holes in the metal that you use for this, and fish some fiberglass or carbon-fiber or even polyester fibers (braided dacron fishing line) through it, to act as reinforcing to tie everything together...the more reinforcing you have throughout the whole composite, the better off you'll be. Don't worry if it's rough on the outside -- you can always sand it smooth and paint it after you're done.
 
If I were trying to repair that, I'd first try to find a strip of metal (1/16"-1/8" thick depending on material) that I could bend/mold and bolt to the top and bottom pieces so they would not be free to flex freely with respect to each other. Only then would I pull out the JB to fill in the gap and provide material that can be filed down to make a relatively smooth surface. It won't be pretty but it will be functional. I've fixed similar heel breaks several times.
 
Here's my progress: I cleaned all surfaces involved with a wire brush on a Dremel and roughened it with a burr. I rinsed with acetone and built a dam with electrical tape.
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Notice the small aluminum brace screwed across the butt of the handle which utilizes the right side of the handle to stabilize the broken left part. I then applied JB Weld into the handle and let set for about 8 hours.
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When I pulled the tape, the JBW was the consistency o putty.
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I shaped it a bit with a screwdriver and fingers. I wiped it with a little acetone and applied more JBW where there were voids, shaping and smoothing it with a wet finger. Next morning:
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I'll let harden another 24 hours and then shape the interior with a rotary burr to permit replacing the rubber grips. I also need to trim the screw ends and possibly add one more screw. More updates to follow. O.
 
JB Weld held for a while, long enough for me to drop a 32 inch white oak in my yard to make room for an addition to my home. Now the handle is compromised in two places, signaling that it's time for a different approach. This came in today's mail: 20220531_150235.jpg
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I couldn't believe my luck: an exact replacement part in better condition than the rest of my saw for $20 ($31 w/S&H&tax). And yes, I have the replacement rubber hand grips (they cost me more than the handle/air box!). $5 for the saw at an estate sale, $20 for the handle/air box and $25 for the left rubber handle cover! I'm approaching $350 total investment, including the NOS 31" bar and new chain. I'll post pics of the finished project when done (are you ever really done repairing a fifty-year-old saw??) Thanks for watching! O
 
I finally got around to replacing the broken rear handle/air box. I even swapped out the ID plates to keep the appropriate serial number on the saw.
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The new part even has the spark plug protector that is missing on the original part.
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Here you can see how the JB Weld failed:
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I broke the decompression linkage while trying to adjust it. Here's how I repaired it:
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Now I need for it to quit snowing so I can go out and do some cutting! Thanks for watching. O
 
I finally got around to replacing the broken rear handle/air box. I even swapped out the ID plates to keep the appropriate serial number on the saw.
View attachment 1058216
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The new part even has the spark plug protector that is missing on the original part.
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Here you can see how the JB Weld failed:
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I broke the decompression linkage while trying to adjust it. Here's how I repaired it:
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Now I need for it to quit snowing so I can go out and do some cutting! Thanks for watching. O
Nice build thread, good job saving this old classic!
 
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