Jonsereds 49sp leaking fuel & oil

[LesPro]

Anyone in the know want to comment please? I have it torn down to this point (see photos) ultimately I need to get to the fuel reservoir to inspect and possibly repair/replace gasket as it is leaking just sitting on a table. This is the primary reason for teardown. Also going to rebuild carb (already have that kit)
So 1st question: where do I go from here? Is there a specific order or do I just start tearing down?
Looking at the sprocket, (see photo) is it time to replace? It is the 7 sprocket not 8.

Please refer to photo with switch. Why is there no 2nd wire? It didn't come off, it's simply not there.
Eventually I'll need to know how to adjust the points?

 

[LesPro]

Update: I figured out the carb removal, very sneaky Johnny Red!
New snag: how do I remove the flywheel? I'm trying to reach the points and condenser for inspection. Is it one of those Left handed threads? One direction and the sprocket nut comes loose. The other direction feels like it's only tightening.

 

[LesPro]

 

[LesPro]

Update: I heated up the nut and it eventually came loose. I found an older thread showing a type of pulley similar to a hormonic balancer removal tool albeit much smaller. I found that tool on eBay for around $35.
I guess ill go from there.
Sure is lonely in this thread.

 

[Woodanhor]

Update: I heated up the nut and it eventually came loose. I found an older thread showing a type of pulley similar to a hormonic balancer removal tool albeit much smaller. I found that tool on eBay for around $35.
I guess ill go from there.
Sure is lonely in this thread.

Was it reversed thread?
Is the flywheel stuck on?

 

[sundance]

Sprocket surely looks like it needs replaced. There's an upgrade to a rim sprocket out there. I've done both of mine.

 

[LesPro]

Was it reversed thread?
Is the flywheel stuck on?

Not reverse thread. Flywheel not stuck it just seems like it's pressed on.

 

[LesPro]

Sprocket surely looks like it needs replaced. There's an upgrade to a rim sprocket out there. I've done both of mine.

Rim sprocket? Got any pics or links?

 

[Bob95065]

Update: I heated up the nut and it eventually came loose. I found an older thread showing a type of pulley similar to a hormonic balancer removal tool albeit much smaller. I found that tool on eBay for around $35.
I guess ill go from there.
Sure is lonely in this thread.

I had to replace the case gasket in my 49SP. It was burning bar oil sucked through the leak. When I had to remove my flywheel I made a puller out of some steel I had laying around. I laid out the points with a protractor and square. Worked great and it was free.

 

[Cantdog]

I had to replace the case gasket in my 49SP. It was burning bar oil sucked through the leak. When I had to remove my flywheel I made a puller out of some steel I had laying around. I laid out the points with a protractor and square. Worked great and it was free.

Yep.....that's what I did years ago but took it a couple steps further.....the one I made will pull both the clutch spyder and flywheels from the 49sp, 50, 51, 52/52E, 521, 621 and 66/70E. The only thing to be careful with is the length of the puller bolts......they must not be longer than needed to engage the treaded part of the flywheel or can run the risk of damaging your points or electronic model.
Lespro.....This my preferred method, however there is another, simpler way as well. Husqvarna makes what they call a "Knocker" in several sizes. They sell for $5-6.00. It simply threads onto the crankshaft threads once the nut is removed...make sure there is a bit of room for the flywheel to move, in other words don't tighten the knocker all the way down to the flywheel face....it's a couple inches long, enough to get out by the fan blades. You grab the strongest looking fan blade near the edge with a pair of vice grips and lift the saw just clear of the bench and give the knocker a good whack with a hammer. It seems crude but is about the only way to get flywheels off the later Huskys.

 

[Cantdog]

Les....I have what might sound like a couple stupid questions but must be asked before we go much further...….are you sure it's your gasket that is leaking and not coming from corrosion or damage somewhere? And also have you tried tightening the case bolts?

 

[sundance]

Rim sprocket? Got any pics or links?

Goggle "jonsered 49sp rim sprocket" and you'll see several.

 

[LesPro]

I found one on eBay. The design confused me. Does this go over your existing sprocket or replaced it. Is it metal or plastic?

 

[sundance]

I found one on eBay. The design confused me. Does this go over your existing sprocket or replaced it. Is it metal or plastic?

Should replace the clutch drum. The rim sprocket is then used. Should be all metal. Are you running .325 pitch or 3/8? Need to pay attention to which rim sprocket it comes with (although the rim sprocket is the cheap part if the other is needed, ~$6)

 

[LesPro]

Les....I have what might sound like a couple stupid questions but must be asked before we go much further...….are you sure it's your gasket that is leaking and not coming from corrosion or damage somewhere? And also have you tried tightening the case bolts?

To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure where/why it's leaking. I know it started leaking fall of 2018 when I turned the saw sideways. Now sitting upright out of sunlight, away from heat sources it's leaking fuel and bar/chain oil. I put an Allen wrench to the case bolts and they seemed tight to me. I don't see anything obvious like holes or dents. I've never dropped this saw. I originally thought the fuel leak might be that return valve on top of the fuel reservoir but when I discovered it leaked out overnight in upright position I discounted that. It still may need replacing but can't be the main culpret.

 

[Cantdog]

What are the levels of fluids remaining in both tanks. Do they leak more the fuller they are? I suggest thoroughly cleaning the bottom of the saw of all leakage, dry it completely and sit it on some clean newspaper for a day or so and note where the leaks appear to be from. It is not uncommon for oil to weep through the system over time and exit through the normal oil corridor to the bat if the tank is nearly full. However it is not common for fuel to leak out of the saw. The tank vent may leak when the saw is on it's side but not in the upright position. The gas cap may leak if the tank is over half full and the gasket violated or has hardened from age.

 

[LesPro]

What are the levels of fluids remaining in both tanks. Do they leak more the fuller they are? I suggest thoroughly cleaning the bottom of the saw of all leakage, dry it completely and sit it on some clean newspaper for a day or so and note where the leaks appear to be from. It is not uncommon for oil to weep through the system over time and exit through the normal oil corridor to the bat if the tank is nearly full. However it is not common for fuel to leak out of the saw. The tank vent may leak when the saw is on it's side but not in the upright position. The gas cap may leak if the tank is over half full and the gasket violated or has hardened from age.

my best estimate is about 1/2 tank or a little better remaining in the fuel tank and about 2/3 remailing in oil reservoir.
After spending several minutes attempting to cut one day I set it on the bench. It lacked power and the fuel leaking seems to had gotten worse.
The following day there was a good sized puddle on the floor of both fuel and oil. It's never done that. I'm fairly certain it's not leaking from the caps - at least not a significant amount. The bottom of the saw case was wet from it leaking overnight.

Both tanks are empty now in preparation for the repair. I will tonight fill only the fuel tank and place on newspaper and see what happens. Please note the carb has been removed so fuel lines are open to atmospheric pressure. I tipped it at about a 45 degree angle when filling and when uprighting it noticed some fuel leakage on top where the carb sits. About 2 teaspoons worth.

 

[LesPro]

Should replace the clutch drum. The rim sprocket is then used. Should be all metal. Are you running .325 pitch or 3/8? Need to pay attention to which rim sprocket it comes with (although the rim sprocket is the cheap part if the other is needed, ~$6)

It's a .325 pitch to the best of my knowledge/measurements and 7 - toothed sprocket.

 

[sundance]

It's a .325 pitch to the best of my knowledge/measurements and 7 - toothed sprocket.

Then the one I saw on the bay should be a fit. I converted mine to 3/8 years ago. A rim change and a new bar to match.

 

[LesPro]

my best estimate is about 1/2 tank or a little better remaining in the fuel tank and about 2/3 remailing in oil reservoir.
After spending several minutes attempting to cut one day I set it on the bench. It lacked power and the fuel leaking seems to had gotten worse.
The following day there was a good sized puddle on the floor of both fuel and oil. It's never done that. I'm fairly certain it's not leaking from the caps - at least not a significant amount. The bottom of the saw case was wet from it leaking overnight.

Both tanks are empty now in preparation for the repair. I will tonight fill only the fuel tank and place on newspaper and see what happens. Please note the carb has been removed so fuel lines are open to atmospheric pressure. I tipped it at about a 45 degree angle when filling and when uprighting it noticed some fuel leakage on top where the carb sits. About 2 teaspoons worth.

Update: no significant amount of fuel leaked out overnight. The bottom of the case was a little wet but the newspaper only had a small spot on it. (2nd photo) I did notice while draining out the fuel into another container some fuel leaked out the top portion (while the saw was tilted) Not sure if it came from the gasket or the "return valve" (pictured)