Just bought a 2008 Carlton trx7015...I have a few questions.

[AAASTUMPSERVICE]

*I'm sure a few of you on here can guide me in the right direction on where to go for the best deal on sandvik replacement teeth. I am looking for the "new style" longs and extended shorts. What are you paying per tooth?

*Does anyone have problems extending or retracting the tracks on these machines? It seems to be lacking power to get them in or just binding up.

*Also if anyone on here is from the NW...where do you go to get your teeth retiped or sharpened?

Thanks a lot.

 

[Mowingman]

I am not sure what "new style" teeth are. However, I have a 2009 model, and the Sandvic teeth on it are only available from Carlton. This is because Carlton has Sandvic teeth that have the square shank setting at a 45 degree angle to the tooth head, instead of arrainged square with the tooth head. The pockets on the Carlton/Sandvic wheel only accept these odd shaped teeth. So, no Sandvic tooth dealer will have that tooth. Carlton has done this, I guess, so that you can only get teeth from them, and not from aftermarket suppliers.
Check and see if this is the type you have. I hope my description is not too confusing.
Jeff

 

[AAASTUMPSERVICE]

You're right my teeth are setup that way. So what does the Carlton dealer sell those for per tooth? Does your machine have any issues extending or retracting the tracks? Does it bind up at all?

 

[Mowingman]

I don't have my last invoice handy. However, I think the teeth were about $12.75 - $13.00 each. This does not include the locking nut. I buy all of my teeth, as well as other parts, direct from the factory.
The tracks extend pretty easy if you extend/retract them a little at a time, walk the machine a couple of feet, then extend some more. The rubber will bind up against a hard surface, so that is why I walk-extend-walk-extend when I move them. I also do this on grass surfaces so it does not tear the sod when moving tracks in or out. Try this, and it should fix your "binding" problems.
jeff

 

[bigdaddy2]

teeth for Carlton 7015 grinder

You can only by teeth from carlton with that wheel. Prices went up when you factor in shipping they are about 15.00 per tooth and you can not get them anywhere else. Look up discount stump cutters. They re-sharpen and I believe retip as well. Price of teeth sound expensive but remember they last 2 to 3 times as long as any other teeth to include green teeth.

 

[Mowingman]

Yes, the price of these teeth is not a big factor, as they last a long time. Plus, you can switch them from one side to the other to get even more use out of them.
Jeff

You can only by teeth from carlton with that wheel. Prices went up when you factor in shipping they are about 15.00 per tooth and you can not get them anywhere else. Look up discount stump cutters. They re-sharpen and I believe retip as well. Price of teeth sound expensive but remember they last 2 to 3 times as long as any other teeth to include green teeth.

 

[AAASTUMPSERVICE]

I just received an email from the parts department at Carlton and they said The "new style" as i was refering to are called diamond style teeth...anyways they said it's $13.57 for leed teeth and $13.32 per side tooth plus shipping. Not a bad deal.

I did my first job with the new machine yesterday and OMG i couldnt beleive how fast it grinds and how durable the teeth are!!! I seen a few sparks when i grazed some rocks but after looking at the teeth after the three stumps they are as sharp as when i unloaded it! I couldnt be happier with this thing!!!

 

[gr8scott72]

I don't have my last invoice handy. However, I think the teeth were about $12.75 - $13.00 each. This does not include the locking nut. I buy all of my teeth, as well as other parts, direct from the factory.
The tracks extend pretty easy if you extend/retract them a little at a time, walk the machine a couple of feet, then extend some more. The rubber will bind up against a hard surface, so that is why I walk-extend-walk-extend when I move them. I also do this on grass surfaces so it does not tear the sod when moving tracks in or out. Try this, and it should fix your "binding" problems.
jeff

You can also run the cutter head, without it running, down to the ground and lift the front of the machine up and then slide the tracks in quite easily.