Just rebuilt an 036 pro...

[HORSELOGGER]

Hey folks, Last week end a neighbor gave me a clapped out 036 pro that was makin a a real bad rattle... Like piston slap on steroids. I took the muffler off and could see that there was a hole in the piston right at the base of the skirt on the exhaust side. I took the top end off and near as I can figure, the top ring stuck, but the saw still ran. Guy kept using and the piston wore thin on the exhaust side untill it broke. Amazing that it was still running when he gave it to me. Anyway... I bought a top end kit from jeff s over on ebay and put it together this morning. It runs good and I got the theing idling and reving smooth ( as smooth as possible with the sucky screw limiters ) I ran it a little , made a few cuts, and it seemed to want to go a little higher in the rpms, but couldnt. I put a digital tach on it, and got 11,800. The book says 13, 500.... Is this a situation where I am a victim of the carb screws, or is it just a little tight because its a new top end ????? If these seem like dumb questions, its the first saw I've rebuilt, so thanks for bearing with my ignorance.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Those caps can be removed ( you need a tool specifically ofr this application ) and the mixture screw adjusted. The cap needs to be reinstalled to prevent the mixture screw from vibrating and changing the adjustment. If you can get some new caps a small sheet metal screw can ce twisted into the cap and the cap pulled out with a pair of pliers. This worked for me on an 044 that I owned a few years ago.

 

[stihltech]

caps

There is a tab on the cap you must line up with the slot to remove them.
BUT, also check the inlet lever height in the carb and the inlet screen. Better yet, put in a kit. Could save some greif later.
I would do those things and let it break in a bit before revving it out. A little extra fuel for the first tank or 2 can't hurt.

 

[HORSELOGGER]

Would it not work to just sort of snip of the little ears on the plastic limit housing?

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Re: caps

Originally posted by stihltech
There is a tab on the cap you must line up with the slot to remove them.
BUT, also check the inlet lever height in the carb and the inlet screen. Better yet, put in a kit. Could save some greif later.
I would do those things and let it break in a bit before revving it out. A little extra fuel for the first tank or 2 can't hurt.

Ever since Stihltech has been on this site, we have had loads of great advice from him. He is definitely the man when it comes to Stihl products!

 

[jokers]

Hi Horselogger, I`m wondering what book gave you the 13,500 rpm spec? We just covered this a few days ago in another thread and when I looked in the Stihl workshop manual it stated 13,000 rpm but Rich Hoffman stated that he too thought the spec was 13,500 from his earlier saws. Just curious and suddenly wondering if Stihl has changed the spec. If you have a valid Stihl reference I`d also like to give Rich credit for having the correct info and point out that we both had valid reason to believe we are right(is that possible?) but have different info.

Russ

 

[tony marks]

man u can do what u just did ,to the saw... rebuild ,i call it... and dont know,, u can remove limiter caps. theres people here that understand the whys of that...
but not me. dang i wish i could do that.
ihope u not offended as thats not my intent. just amazed .

 

[HORSELOGGER]

No Offense taken Tony... Just a comfort zone thing I guess. Doin a top end was actually really easy, but I have never fiddled with the saps before , so looking for a little light on the subject to try and save myself some grief. " wisdom is found in a multitude of counsellors"... Jokers, that spec is right out of the owners manual. I dont have a shop manual.... Stihl tech... I only understand about half of your post, and its not for want or trying.... What kit are you talking about and where to look for "inlet lever"??? Sorry, I got a public school education.

 

[dozerdan]

Out of curiosity,I just looked in my tune up spec sheet.My sheet came out of the old Mifflintown Stihl Inc. building which was located about 25 mile from here.
034S/036
Idle RPM Range 2700-2900
Max RPM Range 12500-13000

Later
Dan

 

[jokers]

The difference in specs, both from Stihl no less, just illustrates my point that a person can`t rely solely on a tach for tuning. I`ve always felt this way, as many here can attest to. By ear with a slight burble or 4 stroking at WOT out of the cut and by most power in the cut are the way to go.

Horselogger, I believe that Stihltech is speaking of a carb rebuild kit, in fact I know he is but I can`t speak for anyone but myself. The inlet lever is attached to the needle valve that is operated by the metering diaphragm. Inlet lever height can be crucial in some applications but is less so in a carb with full adjustability.

Russ

 

[WRW]

Russ,
I've got an owners manual that lists 13,500 as a cutoff speed (ignition?). Maybe the spec is determined for the year of manufacture?
I'm with you on the use of a tach for tuning...optimum performance & longevity seem to me to be achieved by the ear tuning method.

 

[stihltech]

carb kit

Yep, that is what I meant.
Jokers, pardon me for taking a stand here, but the inlet lever is crucial in any carb, adjustable or not. It is the primary source of metered fuel.Yes, you may compensate for it with adjusting the screw, but you are only treating the symtoms, not curing the problem. Stihl even gave us all height gages so we could set them correctly. It makes the difference between flooding and lean.
Guess I am just used to finding the source of the problem.

 

[jokers]

Stihltech, of course you are right about the inlet lever. I`m sort of thinking that many saws would be better off however if noone tweaked the levers unless they knew exactly what they were trying to accomplish and they were determined to tweak until they got it right, but like I said, you are right.

Russ

 

[stihltech]

innards

If you get the innards right, the rest will almost take care of itself.

 

[johnb]

mearsurments

Hey I been following along with this fix it thread and have a question for stihl tech. Where do you measure to on the inlet lever? is it height from the bottom of the bowl area or is it a flush measurment acrosst the top without the diaphram installed?? I've got a 045 that leaks back through the carb after a new kit was installed. I have'nt tweeked the inlet lever but I'm pretty sure thats the culpret. Thanks the Hoosier





It's a jungle out there!!!!!!

 

[stihltech]

inlet lever

The lever is different on different makes of carburetor.
Some will be flush with the top of the carb face with the gasket removed. Some are flush with the bottom of the metering side well. The lever usually fits down into a depression in this type. Still others have a measurement from the top of the face to the top of the lever. A lot of carb kits will have the instructions with them, Walbro is very good about it.
IF you have a good dealer around(any brand), he should have a guage to set a Walbro or Zama. Possibly a Tillotson, but I have never seen one.. Also the repair manuals will sometimes have the dimension.

As for the 045, make sure the inlet lever spins freely on the pin, and replace the spring if you can.