Large husky + CSM = poor tensioner access & breakage?

[headleyj]

So I've searched and in my never-ending quest for information I've seen a few concerns about the tensioners on 395 and 3120 breaking on a CSM.

I've also see a few say the tensioner is real tough to access when on a CSM.

Can some folks with a 395/3120 on a CSM comment on this for me?

EDIT: I will most likely be getting the Granberg Alaskan Mill...

 

[mtngun]

Front chain tension screws are blocked by the typical Alaskan, however, it is sometimes possible to gain access by drilling a hole through the offending piece on the Alaskan.

Dunno why tensioners would be more likely to break on an Alaskan vs. normal bucking and felling ?

 

[BobL]

One difference between adjusting a chain when the power head is on the mill versus off the mill, is the mass of what is being shifted by the adjuster.

On the mill the power head is being moved, off the mill the bar is being moved. Normally this should not make any difference but if the power head is tilted or drooping even slightly to one side the friction between the powerhead and the bar will put extra strain on the tensioner. This happens with side tensioners as well as front tensioners.

Why there seems to be more of a problem with the husky side tensioners I'm not sure but it maybe that it has something to do with their location on the clutch cover or their construction.

The 076 has a front tensioner and has been trouble free. This pic shows why the GB style mill provides better chain tensioner access for saws like the 076.

 

[huskyhank]

I left the dogs on my 3120 and so I have enough space to get a screwdriver in at an angle. Its not too hard and I still get about 33.5" of cut. I set the saw/mill down as if the saw rested on its bottom. The mill and bar is heavy enough that the saw is off the ground. I loosen the nuts a bit and turn the screw to get the right tension while I hold the saw up by the back handle, then tighten. Its easy. If I drill a hole and take the dogs off I might gain 1.5 inches of cut. I have not bothered yet.

And I'll add that if you have to twist the adjuster screw hard enough to break it, something is wrong.

 

[BobL]

And I'll add that if you have to twist the adjuster screw hard enough to break it, something is wrong.

Yep - agree, I also think some scrench users often do not realize how much torque those things generate compared to a normal screwdriver

 

[gr8scott72]

And I'll add that if you have to twist the adjuster screw hard enough to break it, something is wrong.

I haven't twisted it hard enough to break it but I have had 4 of them break on me while milling. I even took my saw to the Husky shop to see if they could find anything wrong with it. Nothing.

 

[huskyhank]

I haven't twisted it hard enough to break it but I have had 4 of them break on me while milling. I even took my saw to the Husky shop to see if they could find anything wrong with it. Nothing.

Bad metal?
I did spray my screw assembly with some super duper dry moly lube to make it slide easier. But I've only had this saw for a couple of months. Maybe I ought to buy an extra screw??

Isn't the 395 screw in the crankcase side? The 3120 is in the chain cover on the outside.

 

[gr8scott72]

Bad metal?
I did spray my screw assembly with some super duper dry moly lube to make it slide easier. But I've only had this saw for a couple of months. Maybe I ought to buy an extra screw??

Isn't the 395 screw in the crankcase side? The 3120 is in the chain cover on the outside.

Mine's actually a 394 and the screw is on the crankcase side right next to the bar.

 

[huskyhank]

Mine's actually a 394 and the screw is on the crankcase side right next to the bar.

That's like my 2100. Its old and has never broken a screw.

How would it break while milling? It seems the bar nuts tightened down would keep the screw from any stress at all.

Do you mean it broke when you were adjusting it?

 

[gr8scott72]

That's like my 2100. Its old and has never broken a screw.

How would it break while milling? It seems the bar nuts tightened down would keep the screw from any stress at all.

Do you mean it broke when you were adjusting it?

Nope. Broke while milling not adjusting.

I'd had this saw almost two years and no problems with the screw. One month into milling it breaks. Since then, I think I've replaced it either 2 or 3 more times. Every time it happens, it's on the mill.

 

[huskyhank]

Nope. Broke while milling not adjusting.

I'd had this saw almost two years and no problems with the screw. One month into milling it breaks. Since then, I think I've replaced it either 2 or 3 more times. Every time it happens, it's on the mill.

Something is slipping on your saw.

Sometimes when I go to adjust my chain I notice the screw has lost tension and is not bearing on anything. The head might even be vibrating back and forth, so I know its not doing much of anything. The bar nuts hold the bar on. The screw shouldn't have any load on it to speak of.

I use anti-seize compound on the bar studs and nuts and I tighten them fully and well, then check them again. I usually use a little breaker bar and real socket rather than a scrench. Lubing the assembly lets me torque it down tight.

 

[gr8scott72]

Something is slipping on your saw.

Sometimes when I go to adjust my chain I notice the screw has lost tension and is not bearing on anything. The head might even be vibrating back and forth, so I know its not doing much of anything. The bar nuts hold the bar on. The screw shouldn't have any load on it to speak of.

I use anti-seize compound on the bar studs and nuts and I tighten them fully and well, then check them again. I usually use a little breaker bar and real socket rather than a scrench. Lubing the assembly lets me torque it down tight.

That was probably my problem. Not tight enough. Since it happened the last time, I've really been cranking on them when I tighten them. I also use a real socket/ratchet but have always done so since I have a full wrap handle and the one screw is not accessible with a scrench.

 

[BobL]

Something is slipping on your saw.

Sometimes when I go to adjust my chain I notice the screw has lost tension and is not bearing on anything. The head might even be vibrating back and forth, so I know its not doing much of anything. The bar nuts hold the bar on. The screw shouldn't have any load on it to speak of.

I use anti-seize compound on the bar studs and nuts and I tighten them fully and well, then check them again. I usually use a little breaker bar and real socket rather than a scrench. Lubing the assembly lets me torque it down tight.

CS mills are strange beasts. I've had lotsa nuts coming loose, and stuff, especially alloy and ally develop cracks. And the stuff that vibrates loose with the 076 is not the same as with the 880.

 

[LAndrews]

If you're cranking down on the bar nuts, be sure not to use good ones. It's not much fun getting the studs out of the case when they strip. Seems like they're in there with Loctite Red.

I filed a groove into the bar clamp on my Alaskan that lets a thin flat-blade screwdriver fit through easily. I can see why some people would want to drill the clamp, but (on my 395 at least) it's a straighter shot through the opening between the clamp halves.

Also might be good to check the fit of the tab that goes into the bar - maybe it's jamming somehow?

 

[oldsaw]

That was probably my problem. Not tight enough. Since it happened the last time, I've really been cranking on them when I tighten them. I also use a real socket/ratchet but have always done so since I have a full wrap handle and the one screw is not accessible with a scrench.

Buy another scrench and cut the big side off of it. That worked on my 066 until I ditched the full wrap, except I cut the other side off.

Make sure they are tight, and check them every now and then. I've lost a few over the years, with more things vibrating off of the 3120 than the 066. However, the 3120 was overall a better milling saw. Never broke an adjuster on it.