Learning About Husqvarna 562xp's .. The Saga begins. (MUCH more to come BTW)

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weimedog

weimedog

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This series explores simple Muffler mods and a "No Base Gasket Build". Requires a "Pop Up" piston. A few things to discuss are the cylinder/case interference possibility when either trimming material from the cylinder base or no base gasket builds. Sealing the transfer coverers. The layout of that saw series.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtw-MqiEnI4FycTP1g2bjRM05YwvrovZm

Next set of video's will have much more winter run time and discuss the impact of changing from the EL46 to EL48, was there a tangible difference?? Also the case updates and implications on how to best work around potential issues with the early versions of the saw. (1184 to the rescue .. again??) MIGHT cover some of the updates... Understand as I experience and learn, the video's will document that process and what I think I understand now may change as time goes on. SO feel free to "speed" the learning curve if you have already covered this ground. If not.... hang on for the ride. LOTS to discuss on this series of saws. lots of time on camera from cases being split for a variety of reasons to the Autotune & interface system. Might not be for the casual mechanic but certainly interesting stuff to explore for the more technical oriented saw geek.
 
Thanks for a good-quality informative video. I just replaced/upgraded the intake track on my 2002 359. I went with Three Bond 1184 instead of a new (traditional) base gasket. Now however, after seeing your video on the 562, I realize that I have not checked the squish since reassembly with the 1184. I have NOT fired-up the saw up since reassembly. I would appreciate some guidance on how to check the squish and what would be an acceptable range of squish-check results. Alternatively, if a 359 has a proven record of tolerating the absence of a traditional base gasket I'd like to know that too.
 
JoeMay said:
Thanks for a good-quality informative video. I just replaced/upgraded the intake track on my 2002 359. I went with Three Bond 1184 instead of a new (traditional) base gasket. Now however, after seeing your video on the 562, I realize that I have not checked the squish since reassembly with the 1184. I have NOT fired-up the saw up since reassembly. I would appreciate some guidance on how to check the squish and what would be an acceptable range of squish-check results. Alternatively, if a 359 has a proven record of tolerating the absence of a traditional base gasket I'd like to know that too.
Click to expand...

A good number is .020"
 
Remove spark plug crank over until piston is close to TDC (above ports), put some .040" lead solder through plug hole in an upside down 'T' shape so both sides of piston squash lead and piston don't rock and give false reading. Pull over engine, remove solder and read the solder with calipers. That measurement is your 'squish clearance'. Hope that helps.
 
Thank you, but I'm wondering how a sufficiently wide head of the upside down T will fit through the plug hole. Could the T be comprised of two L-shaped lenghts side by side?
 
weimedog said:
This series explores simple Muffler mods and a "No Base Gasket Build". Requires a "Pop Up" piston. A few things to discuss are the cylinder/case interference possibility when either trimming material from the cylinder base or no base gasket builds. Sealing the transfer coverers. The layout of that saw series.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtw-MqiEnI4FycTP1g2bjRM05YwvrovZm

Next set of video's will have much more winter run time and discuss the impact of changing from the EL46 to EL48, was there a tangible difference?? Also the case updates and implications on how to best work around potential issues with the early versions of the saw. (1184 to the rescue .. again??) MIGHT cover some of the updates... Understand as I experience and learn, the video's will document that process and what I think I understand now may change as time goes on. SO feel free to "speed" the learning curve if you have already covered this ground. If not.... hang on for the ride. LOTS to discuss on this series of saws. lots of time on camera from cases being split for a variety of reasons to the Autotune & interface system. Might not be for the casual mechanic but certainly interesting stuff to explore for the more technical oriented saw geek.
Click to expand...
I have the EL46 on my saw now, did switching to an EL48 give a big improvement? Great videos!
 
Duce said:
I have the EL46 on my saw now, did switching to an EL48 give a big improvement? Great videos!
Click to expand...
Actually not really. The saw was dead when it it came. After the first iteration with the EL46 it actually ran pretty well. Didn't have the dreaded hesitation some had and I believe the EL48 was designed to address. The other change noticed so far is it uses more fuel with the EL48 but that maybe unrelated to the version change and might be related to the actual mechanical side of the carb. Either way an incremental change at best. Guess if its running well with the EL46 AND the spark plug color is a happy brown, I certainly wouldn't change it.
 
weimedog said:
Actually not really. The saw was dead when it it came. After the first iteration with the EL46 it actually ran pretty well. Didn't have the dreaded hesitation some had and I believe the EL48 was designed to address. The other change noticed so far is it uses more fuel with the EL48 but that maybe unrelated to the version change and might be related to the actual mechanical side of the carb. Either way an incremental change at best. Guess if its running well with the EL46 AND the spark plug color is a happy brown, I certainly wouldn't change it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply. Saw starts and runs well, but seems to 4 cycle in deep wood at full throttle. I will leave well enough alone. Thanks again.
 
I upgraded 2 of my 562 to the el48 carb with the reprogram. They both no longer have the baugh issue of the el46 carbs. One of them now has a flooding out problem when refueling, if left on its side very long it will not run until I pull the air cleaner off and plug out to unflood it. I think the carb has less then 75 hrs run time on it. I checked the needle/jet seat with my bore scope and it looks like the rubber on the jet is worn uneven.. The seat looks like new no pitting. i got a couple of new jets but haven't tried them out yet.. sigh... The autotune blues have made me shelf my 4 562s... A lot less stress running my ported 357s...
I have got 2 of the 6 screw cases for the 562s, they have an extra screw under the muffler area. When I have time I will be swapping over to the 6 screw cases.

Has anyone found a fix for the hot start flooding issue with the el48s? Am I on the right track? The problem saw has been checked for any codes it didn't show any... Another thing I found is with the el48 reprogram I have lost about 400 rpm wot... ??

Fullskip
 
raoul morejohn said:
I upgraded 2 of my 562 to the el48 carb with the reprogram. They both no longer have the baugh issue of the el46 carbs. One of them now has a flooding out problem when refueling, if left on its side very long it will not run until I pull the air cleaner off and plug out to unflood it. I think the carb has less then 75 hrs run time on it. I checked the needle/jet seat with my bore scope and it looks like the rubber on the jet is worn uneven.. The seat looks like new no pitting. i got a couple of new jets but haven't tried them out yet.. sigh... The autotune blues have made me shelf my 4 562s... A lot less stress running my ported 357s...
I have got 2 of the 6 screw cases for the 562s, they have an extra screw under the muffler area. When I have time I will be swapping over to the 6 screw cases.

Has anyone found a fix for the hot start flooding issue with the el48s? Am I on the right track? The problem saw has been checked for any codes it didn't show any... Another thing I found is with the el48 reprogram I have lost about 400 rpm wot... ??

Fullskip
Click to expand...
Mine had a leaky decomp. Scorched the piston they gave me a new saw. 107 hours on the old one. The new one starts hot or cold. Old one hated to start hot.
 
I'm really enjoying your videos - very clear and with lots of good tips for those of us that didn't spend much time in shop class.
Definitely want to see your next 'how to change carburetors' video for the 562. Good stuff!
THANKS!
 
My problem saw throws no codes and runs well, it just has a mild muffler mod. I hope putting in a new jet will fix my el48. When I get the time I'm going to put a el46 back on it with the 44 nozzle and the throttle plate notch. I will do a leak down test before I swap out the el48 carb.
I have 2 el46 carbs with the baug issues. I will smile if I can cure the el46 carbs... Sounds like I can keep el48 programing if I swap the module onto the el46 carb. Or would it be better to reflash back to the el46 program ? Has anyone found a way to get the limiter say up to 14200 and a way to get more fuel? Oh ya what about the weak clutch side bearing cage? It might just be me I work them hard with 24 and 28 inch bars. What has happened to me is the plastic cage fails and lets the bearings move together witch will cause a code throwing air leak.. Sigh...
These 562s are bad ass saws as everyone knows and I love mine when they are working right. I have one with over 1k hours on it...

Weimedog keep your great tech vids coming we all enjoy them...

Raoul
 
Just as an informational nugget. EL48 is now down to $99 but of course they have none in stock at my warehouse for that price....the other warehouse has them but the price is still $145 from them. Coils also dropped to a much more palatable $46


Edit: had the wrong coil number. Coil for el44 is $46. Coil for the el48 is $65 IIRC and on a positive note my distributor saw the light to drop the price.... Of course they did that after I already ordered carbs from the other distributor that didn't have them in stock
 

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