Learning to Fell Small Leaners, Please Help

[secureland]

Hi,

This tree is on my property. I've cut firewood before where directional felling wasn't very important.
I'm now interested in learning about directional felling using wedges.
I have about 400 of these (12"-18"dbh) scotch pine on the property.
I think these would make good practice, as I want to let some sunlight in for other plantings.

The tree in the pictures has a bend about 9 feet up.
Using wedges, Exactly how do I get this to go in the direction of the arrow on the picture.

I don't want to attempt this until I feel that it can be accomplished successfully, I do not have equipment to pull or push trees like this over, and they are to big to control by pushing with my arms.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[tramp bushler]

Hi,

This tree is on my property. I've cut firewood before where directional felling wasn't very important.
I'm now interested in learning about directional felling using wedges.
I have about 400 of these (12"-18"dbh) scotch pine on the property.
I think these would make good practice, as I want to let some sunlight in for other plantings.

The tree in the pictures has a bend about 9 feet up.
Using wedges, Exactly how do I get this to go in the direction of the arrow on the picture.

I don't want to attempt this until I feel that it can be accomplished successfully, I do not have equipment to pull or push trees like this over, and they are to big to control by pushing with my arms.

Thanks,
Bill

Bill , I just typed an instructional reply which disappeared into cyber space somewhere .....

The tree looks like it already leans in the direction you want it to go , ,Hard to tell from the pics tho ........ All stump cuts need to be level ....If you have an older Stihl , Husky or Jonsred saw manual there is an instructional diagram in them ...

There are some trees that can,t be lifted with wedges , 80 deg . is usually too much You can use about a 3ft long plumb bob to tell how much the tree leans , plumb it from 3 sides until you get the hang of it .

 

[motoroilmccall]

Pics are aweful small, but it looks like the tree leans for just the first 10ft or so, then it straightens out. From the looks of it the lean is too sever to be able to wedge it in the direction you want. Best bet is to grab a ladder, fell the tree where it starts to straighten out in the direction you want, then use a rope and a buddy, or just your body, to push the lower part over where you want it after you cut it. Just make sure to put a wedge in behind your back cut once you get the saw deep enough or you'll pinch the saw, or worse yet, the tree will fall towards the lean, and the opposite way you want it too.

 

[secureland]

bigger picture of lean

Hi Tramp Bushler,
Here's a larger pic, I didn't realize they were so small.
I'm used to using the standard 1/3 notch with backcut 1" above bottom of notch.
I've not gotten into other techniques and I though these would be trees to start learning how to use wedges. My experience with these cutting trees with this kind of lean is that my current standard method will not work, and the tree will land in the lawn and possibly on the small apple trees.

Thanks for your response, I would have liked to hear your step-by-step. My conventional method won't work on this tree, so I'm going to have to learn to use wedges considering I don't have equipment to push/pull.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[tramp bushler]

Sevral installments

Swamp out around the tree check for widow makers ect , get your escape route all set ..
ALWAYS FALL ANY TREE FROM THE HIGH SIDE !!!!!!!!!!!stand , work on the high side !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1st the horizontal face cut . With this size tree about the bar depth into the tree .. Nice and flat and level . Use the sights on the starter cover and cut until the sights line up with the desired lay ...You need to get right down there and sight it like a rifle or pistol ....The sights work !!!
2nd Make the ,your on the east coast so a Saginaw face cut , [Top Face ]
the corners of the 2 cuts need to match up almost perfectly .!!!!!!!!!!!
No full face Dutchmen

3rd I take it , you have plastic falling wedges ?? good
7" and 10" are probably the best for you
Start the back cut , about 2 " above the horizontal face cut , . You need to end up with about 1 inch of holding wood if the tree is sound .
This part is hard to explain so b

 

[tramp bushler]

NO Ladders



Any Idea How many people die fooling around with ladders in trees ??????????

Ok , the back cut ,
dog in your saw about 1 " behind your face cut and slowly cut towards the off side WHEN THE BAR IS JUST IN DEEP ENOUGH , START A WEDGE ...Don,t pound it in or you will drive it into your chain [BAD] cut a little tap the wedge , cut a little tap the wedge .. Do not cut the far corner off , leave 1/2"-1 " of holding wood , If you need to start another wedge ... As you are beating wedges , look up as all that thrashin around can snap things up high and they can end up on your head ... Drive the wedges until the tree takes off

 

[secureland]

no ladders

 

[tramp bushler]

Felling tricks

If the high side and direction of fell is such that the clutch cover is up there are sights on the clutch cover as well ... get right down there and use the sights ... When using the sights keep the bar snug in the cut ...

If it is a Hard leaner , You can start the felling by putting in the back cut first . Not all at once , Figure where your holding wood will be , make sure it is high enough for the stump shot [ height of the back cut above the face ]
leave some tickle wood ,,drive the wedges in TIGHT
put in the face, you will know if you misjudged the lean if when putting in the face on this technique your bar starts to pinch , if so , put the top face cut in and finish falling the tree in the conventional wedging manner ......

You need the 2 sides of the holding wood to control the fall ,,,, You usually don,t need the heart wood , so you can carefully use the tip of the bar and cut out the heart,,, Not too much , not too little ,.,

 

[motoroilmccall]

I think his computers killing him, lol.

Anyways, that tree doesn't seem to lean much to me at all, yes it has a nice ox-bow in the first 10ft or so, but it curves back.

1. Start your face cut, horizontal first, 4-5 inches should be plenty, even 3 would suffice. Make sure its lined up where you want it to go.

2. Pull the saw out of the first cut, now start your face cut, I prefer a Humboldt face, which is from the bottom, but it doesn't make a big difference for something this size. Make sure everything lines up right, or it may twist on you.

3. Start your back cut 2" above your face cut, as soon as you have an inch or two of wood showing behind the bar insert your wedge and give it a tap to stay in place. Cut deeper into the wood, keeping a straight cut, and leave about an inch of wood as your hinge. You may need to tap the wedge a few times to keep the tree from pinching your saw if it is enough of a leaner.

4. Once you have your back cut complete, grab your ax and start beating on that wedge (hopefully you have a wedge with a rough face on at least one side, otherwise they tend to pop back out of the wood). Once the wedge starts to loosen up, move to your escape route, the tree is going over. That should fall fairly quick, but I've seen larger timber barely lift off the wedge and take a good 10 seconds to lift off enough to fall.

 

[tramp bushler]

More tricks and things

Wedging trees is a good way to waste time , but it needs to be learned how , the right way ,,,, You will chew up some wedges , you will break some wedges ,. That is how it is ,,,

A smaller [ less deep ] face and a deeper back cut can make lifting a tree easier ....
I usually use a Riggin / Frameing Ax for my pack around ax ,, I have a Plumb 28 oz, that I have tapped over millions of board feet with ,, But I now prefer the Vaughn 28 oz .. ......
The best wedge beating ax is a 5 lb Rafting ax as sold by Baileys ,,,,,,,,,They steer pretty well but I have had a couple that the striking face wasn,t square to the eye or bit and they would break wedges ,,, I ground them flat and all was well .... Buy extra 7 and 10 " wedges ...

the tiny 5 " arn,t much
Thats why they are called topping wedges ....
We use 10 , 12 , 15 ": wedges here ..

The sharper your chain and the truer your bar the more fun and easier your falling will be !!!!!

 

[Wismer]

the last pic, the bottom leans away but it curves and at least the top half leans in the right direction... from that particular picture it looks TO ME as though its an easy drop

 

[secureland]

In a couple of days, once I get some wedges, and get over this cold, I'll be back at it. I'll video my technique for further criticism.

Thanks for the replys,
Bill

 

[tramp bushler]

Not Critisim

Motor oil also explains it well ,

Everybody has to learn ,, I appreciate that you hard the guts to ask !!!!
Getting them on the ground in the right way is the tricky part so I,m pretty detail oriented ...
Hopefully you won,t get hung up and have to take your bar off in the tree , but if you do , don,t freak out , just put on another bar and sharp chain , go up about 3 feet and fall the tree , leave a bit extra holding wood , wedge as needed ..

AS LONG AS THE TREE IS IN THE AIR , THERE,S HOPE !!

PLEASE , WEAR YOUR HARD HAT !!!!!

HAVE FUN !!

Gumboot

 

[bradstr]

Use a very shallow notch-- the more backcut available the better. Start your back cut on the leaning side and work around to the holding side. When you have established the max depth on the leaning side insert your wedge there and pound it in tight. Then when you work around to the holding side start another wedge behind and drive it in as you cut so you won't bind your saw. The result will be that the first wedge will hold the tree from it's natural lean and the second wedge can then be pounded in to tip it over in the intended direction. I use hardhead wedges and it makes falling leaners a whole lot easier.

 

[StumpSurgeon]

An advanced technique is to make your back cut first, using your sights to basically aim your back cut in the desired felling direction. Then drive up your wedge(s). Now make your face cut being careful to maintain your holding wood rectangle's integrity. Do this once again by using your sights on the saw to accomodate this. Now drive the wedge(s) and complete the felling. This takes practice. Plan on making mistakes. Take it slow. Be able to escape the stump. And don't hesitate to get more experienced help!

 

[secureland]

Motor oil also explains it well ,

Everybody has to learn ,, I appreciate that you hard the guts to ask !!!!
Getting them on the ground in the right way is the tricky part so I,m pretty detail oriented ...
Hopefully you won,t get hung up and have to take your bar off in the tree , but if you do , don,t freak out , just put on another bar and sharp chain , go up about 3 feet and fall the tree , leave a bit extra holding wood , wedge as needed ..

AS LONG AS THE TREE IS IN THE AIR , THERE,S HOPE !!

PLEASE , WEAR YOUR HARD HAT !!!!!

HAVE FUN !!

Gumboot

Thanks for the help, I'm taking this learning slow, and am in no rush to cut this tree until I understand what I'm supposed to do.
When it comes to learning something that I haven't done before, I'm prepared to learn what I have to and be patient. I didn't mean "criticism" in the bad sense, I meant it in the constructive (learning) sense.

I appreciate the replys,
Bill

Note:

 

[DWB Forestry]

Ever hear of the Game of Logging?

Game of Logging is a chainsaw training organization that teaches a superior cutting technique that will increase production and decrease accidents. Open face notches, bore cuts and wedge techniques make felling trees much more safe and much more predictable. Check out GOL on the Web.
DWB Forestry

 

[ray benson]

A couple more small tree techniques.
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/fores...ting/UIUC_Tims_Tips_Chainsaw_Safety/small.pdf

 

[motoroilmccall]

Game of Logging is a chainsaw training organization that teaches a superior cutting technique that will increase production and decrease accidents. Open face notches, bore cuts and wedge techniques make felling trees much more safe and much more predictable. Check out GOL on the Web.
DWB Forestry

Wow, you know what DWB, this place your talking about is in my home town, its actually right across from where I went to high school. I never even knew it existed. Its in a commercial building though, that doesn't have any signage on it. I'll have to give them a call when I get back from Florida and find out if they offer anything out of that office, or somewhere local. I'd love to get a full course like that under my belt. The things you learn about your own neighborhood, :hmm3grin2orange: .

 

[buzz sawyer]

Hi Tramp Bushler,
Here's a larger pic, I didn't realize they were so small.
I'm used to using the standard 1/3 notch with backcut 1" above bottom of notch.
I've not gotten into other techniques and I though these would be trees to start learning how to use wedges. My experience with these cutting trees with this kind of lean is that my current standard method will not work, and the tree will land in the lawn and possibly on the small apple trees.

Thanks for your response, I would have liked to hear your step-by-step. My conventional method won't work on this tree, so I'm going to have to learn to use wedges considering I don't have equipment to push/pull.

Thanks,
Bill

Do a search on bore cutting. For 16' to 24" trees, it's a great way (sometimes the only way) to take down leaners to prevent a barber chair - also great to control the direction of the fall. Don't know that it would be necessary for the tree in the photo, but it can't hurt to try and would be a safe opportunity to learn this technique. I recommend at least a 50 - 60cc saw and sharp chain. Ekka probably has some videos posted showing this method.