Limb walking cleats

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Limbrat

ArboristSite Member
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Just wondering if there is anyone who has seen or built what is on my mind. I was doing a dismantle on an oak this week in a drizzle and tried a limb walk on a limb angling up at 30 - 40 degrees and could not do it. I was slipping and sliding all over the place. I have another takedown on a big red cedar with pretty sharp angling limbs set up for next week that will require some limbwalking as well. I was thinking of trying to build a pad to fit in the instep of my boots with studs like track or golf shoes. With the omniscience of some of you gurus, I'm absolutely certain I'm not the first to think of it so help me out.
 
If the branch is coming off, use your hooks, if not, the other splikes are going to damage the branch just as bad if not worse. I am picturing scars all the way up and down these branches.

Pick a better position for your tie in, tie in twice, wait until its not raining, use and endless loop for a foothold... shouldn't be that big of a deal.
 
If the branch is coming off, use your hooks, if not, the other splikes are going to damage the branch just as bad if not worse. I am picturing scars all the way up and down these branches.

Pick a better position for your tie in, tie in twice, wait until its not raining, use and endless loop for a foothold... shouldn't be that big of a deal.

Yep those 30-40° limbs are the worst. I'll usually get the other end of my climb line out there for a second tie in. A well placed loop runner for a foothold usually gets the job done too.
 
If the branch is coming off, use your hooks, if not, the other splikes are going to damage the branch just as bad if not worse. I am picturing scars all the way up and down these branches.

Pick a better position for your tie in, tie in twice, wait until its not raining, use and endless loop for a foothold... shouldn't be that big of a deal.

I was tied into the top of a nearby 40' pine, trying to get a little more height, but the angle from the tie in to the opposite side of the oak didn't help. Couldn't wait on the rain, it was an 80 mile one way trip. You're right, the loop runners would have worked fine but I'm always trying to think of better ways to invent the wheel and once in a while they even roll a little. Yes, I'm just talking takedowns although I doubt I would do much damage to most oaks with short golf type cleats. Not near as much as these big pileated woodpeckers around here anyway! Some good ideas so far, you got me thinking, keep 'em coming.
 
I was tied into the top of a nearby 40' pine, trying to get a little more height, but the angle from the tie in to the opposite side of the oak didn't help. Couldn't wait on the rain, it was an 80 mile one way trip. You're right, the loop runners would have worked fine but I'm always trying to think of better ways to invent the wheel and once in a while they even roll a little. Yes, I'm just talking takedowns although I doubt I would do much damage to most oaks with short golf type cleats. Not near as much as these big pileated woodpeckers around here anyway! Some good ideas so far, you got me thinking, keep 'em coming.

I climb mostly srt these days, with a RADS system. On limbs like that, I'll usually just set my rope to where I need to make the cut and or rig, and work down from there. SRT makes it so easy to ascend/descend, a lot of times it's easier to go up, make the cut, and then come back down and reset. Just depends on the tree.
 
I have not used them in a tree, but my cycling shoes have some pretty good cleats on them.

They grip good when running along moss covered rocks and logs carrying my bike.
 
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I was tied into the top of a nearby 40' pine, trying to get a little more height, but the angle from the tie in to the opposite side of the oak didn't help. Couldn't wait on the rain, it was an 80 mile one way trip. You're right, the loop runners would have worked fine but I'm always trying to think of better ways to invent the wheel and once in a while they even roll a little. Yes, I'm just talking takedowns although I doubt I would do much damage to most oaks with short golf type cleats. Not near as much as these big pileated woodpeckers around here anyway! Some good ideas so far, you got me thinking, keep 'em coming.

Hello, Are you talking about a Live Oak? If you are I know what u mean! Longest spread of any tree that I know of. I think you have a great idea for removing limbs. Loop runners are nice for this yet can be PITA to set plus time consuming especially on large diameter limbs. I just ordered my first real climbing shoes Merrell Moab ventilators. Here in Southern Louisiana we have those pileated wood peckers too. Matter of fact its unofficial but there is the Ivory billed supposedly extinct that has been spotted within a few miles where I live. Last thing if it's raining during the summer here I have no problem working in the rain! I hate the summers here!
 
I carry a 20' piece of 3/8" nylon braid (lowes) in a sack with an atv tow hook on it (grappling hook). tie a friction hitch on 1 end and throw that sucker as far out the limb as you can. don't worry, it'll get tangled in a crotch. pull yourself out there. you'll end up on the underside of the limb. tie a foot loop or 2 in another section of rope, I use the 3/8 for that too, and choke it to the limb with a running bowline. I use a grappling hook to get from tree to tree when I am working a row of pines or a dead tree. if you have a limb above you, use the 3/8" line and tie a redirect. the cheap line isn't meant to be a lifeline, but I cant tell you how many times I've got it stuck or tied it to a limb to ease my way back and just left it there to fall with the limb. its strong though. we've tested it to 750 lbs with every type of knot I use and it didn't phase it. it hoisted a 1500 lb maple log through a block. that same log snapped a 3/8 and 1/2" braided poly rope. its $17 per 100' and has endless uses. best of all, you can throw it away. enough about the rope :) if its a removal, I would spike my way out there.

as far as srt, I am not gonna be that guy that sets a rope 30' away from a crotch, shimmies up a rope, cuts it off and shimmies back down.
 
My goodness boys. They're called Corks . I've done more than 90% of my spur climbing wearing corks.
Most good block heel cork boots ( some loggers call them shoes) have a good stiff sole and are pretty comfortable in the spurs. I take the 2 screw in corks out of the arch area just forward of the heel. The Viberg 105 model is outstanding for climbing. . Whites are pretty comfortable in the spurs also. . Get the #2 Redwood screw ins and you can stick to more than the rest of your body can handle. . . Your foot ascender strap can go in the same place the spurs stirrup would if your not using spurs.
I really like the grappling hook idea also. But. With nice sharp corks on.
 
Hello, Are you talking about a Live Oak? If you are I know what u mean! Longest spread of any tree that I know of. I think you have a great idea for removing limbs. Loop runners are nice for this yet can be PITA to set plus time consuming especially on large diameter limbs. I just ordered my first real climbing shoes Merrell Moab ventilators. Here in Southern Louisiana we have those pileated wood peckers too. Matter of fact its unofficial but there is the Ivory billed supposedly extinct that has been spotted within a few miles where I live. Last thing if it's raining during the summer here I have no problem working in the rain! I hate the summers here!

That particular tree was a laurel oak but yes we do have plenty of live oaks here. They are an amazing tree. You're right, they may sprawl 75 feet or more with huge, heavy limbs that weigh tons. The densest, heaviest wood that I know of and nearly impossible to split because of it's twisted grain. That wood makes great felling wedges too, they are nearly indestructible. Ivory Bills have supposedly been spotted here in the Apalachicola River basin as well
 
My goodness boys. They're called Corks . I've done more than 90% of my spur climbing wearing corks.
Most good block heel cork boots ( some loggers call them shoes) have a good stiff sole and are pretty comfortable in the spurs. I take the 2 screw in corks out of the arch area just forward of the heel. The Viberg 105 model is outstanding for climbing. . Whites are pretty comfortable in the spurs also. . Get the #2 Redwood screw ins and you can stick to more than the rest of your body can handle. . . Your foot ascender strap can go in the same place the spurs stirrup would if your not using spurs.
I really like the grappling hook idea also. But. With nice sharp corks on.

Thanks Tramp, I really like the looks of those Viberg "Corks" they would definitely do the job. At over $500 a pair, Viberg thinks a lot of them too! The grapple hook is a good idea, I've been mulling that over too.
 
Thanks Tramp, I really like the looks of those Viberg "Corks" they would definitely do the job. At over $500 a pair, Viberg thinks a lot of them too! The grapple hook is a good idea, I've been mulling that over too.

Hey ; they are the most inexpensive boots I've ever owned. I got my 105 T s in 03 . I have 33 months of at least 30 hour weeks in mine. They are still water proof and comfortable. Mine have the Urethane sole which I recommend. I still don't need to send them in to be rebuilt. IMO they are better than kuelien s. But I've never had a pair of Kuelien s. But 900$ is just too much for an unknown.
 
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