Limbing directionally

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veeco50

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I need to remove some limbs on a tree directionally. The limbs bifurcate from the trees trunk at a 45 degree angles. If I place an open faced notch on the side of the limb, can I get the limb to fall that way or is there a better option for doing this?
Any help is appreciated in advance. Also, anyone know if power companies will remove the lines going to the home for a day or so for free in MN? Thanks
 
It sounds to me that the limbs you want to cut should be roped out. Obv there is somthing under the tree that you are worried about so I am sure that just dropping them in any fashion is most likely not a good idea. If you have to ask, then I am sure it's a bad idea. Using a notch to control a branch can certainly be done but sometimes the cut doesnt go exactly as planned and then you can have big problems. Putting a notch on the side of a branch can be tricky esp if no ropes are involved.
 
It sounds to me that the limbs you want to cut should be roped out. Obv there is somthing under the tree that you are worried about so I am sure that just dropping them in any fashion is most likely not a good idea. If you have to ask, then I am sure it's a bad idea. Using a notch to control a branch can certainly be done but sometimes the cut doesnt go exactly as planned and then you can have big problems. Putting a notch on the side of a branch can be tricky esp if no ropes are involved.
+1 it can be done because I have seen me do it but if the cut is a critical cut TreeAce is right rope it. This type of cut is best practiced when you are bombing chuncks and you can afford to not have it go right.
 
POWER LINES PEOPLE......... STAY OUT OF THAT TREE, AND GET A PRO. Learn on another tree, another time.
 
Ducaticorse is right. I shoulda said it myself. Certainly there is a 220 power line or "loop" as I have always called em. Anyway, that baby can light u up! I have been told that even the other lines such as cable and telephone can even have enough juice in them to potentially kill. Something about electric getting into these wires via the primary lines...truth is ...IDK...just don't mess with em. I thought I was just answering the original question and didn't saying anything about the power company dropping lines in MN because IDK if they will or not. I should have been warning to stay away from the lines.
 
I also only addressed the first question and missed the last little bit. I personally have no problem with power lines but it is no place to learn.Even if you don't get shocked you could do dammage that you can not fix and loose alot of money and your reputation will suffer. I know here in Michigan the power company will bring down a service drop if you set it up with them. TreeAce I think you are talking about induced current on the cable or phone but in Michigan you can not run cable or phone with the power. A phone line when ringing in can carry 80 volts and can give a good poke if your touching it.
 
It sounds to me that the limbs you want to cut should be roped out. Obv there is somthing under the tree that you are worried about so I am sure that just dropping them in any fashion is most likely not a good idea. If you have to ask, then I am sure it's a bad idea. Using a notch to control a branch can certainly be done but sometimes the cut doesnt go exactly as planned and then you can have big problems. Putting a notch on the side of a branch can be tricky esp if no ropes are involved.


I agree. Not saying it cannot be done but the odds are slim that you can consistently use an open notch on the side of the limb and accurately predict where it will fall.

As far as power lines go, unless you have line clearance certification you should be avoiding them. Even the 240 volt drop from a pole to a house can kill you.
 
Whether free or not, it will be real cheap compared to the worst case scenario, and cheap enough if anything should go wrong. Don't do this around power, and wear your ppe, especially a hard hat and safety glasses.

For future reference, when trying to side notch a branch, ropes work wonders. How big of branches are we talking about? What kind of a tree is it? What saw are you using?

Barring any rope work though, it can be done. Some trees are more forgiving than others, but the key for me has been to give it a slightly downward angle from perpendicular. Let gravity give you a hand, and then bring the backcut in at an angle so that you leave plenty of hinge on the top side, even more than on the bottom, often much more, but don’t cut through the bottom. If the branch is long and heavy enough the hinge can and will pull apart on the top side and you've lost control. I do what I can to reduce weight and length if possible. And I won't go anymore perpendicular than I have to in order to miss what I don't want to hit.

I'll take a little at a time as I approach my limit, as you can only take so much, it depends on the tree's wood characteristics, and length and weight of the branch. I can’t stress that enough. DO NOT keep cutting if it doesn't go. Alot of times I'll quit and take my Stihl ht131, or something long enough and give the branch a shove at a safe place towards the tip of the branch if I can reach it. Somewhere that the saw will not get hung up as it goes. Sometimes it will only go so far because I have left a conservative hinge. Then I’ll address the backcut a bit and I’m done. Playing the wind, especially on a leafed out branch can be helpful to. In fact, if wind is a factor, do not cut towards it, let it work for you if anything.

Keep an eye on the branch and hinge and be mindful. Try to read what it's doing. Don't work directly underneath, if your saw is not long enough to be out a ways, don't do it or get a longer saw. Don't use a ladder.
Keep your escape routes open and don't hesitate to sacrifice the saw. It can even get pinched in the kerf before or during the branch falling.

Often times the branch will still be connected to the tree once it’s down. That can be tricky, dangerous and counterproductive. You’ll be tempted to cut it at the tree, but too often that can put you at a dangerous disadvantage. You don’t want a branch butt sandwich. I recommend cutting the branch in segments and working back to the tree from a safe distance and position. Take your time. It can be cut at the tree, but depending on the branch characteristics it can become very unpredictable and destructive. Don’t forget to finish with a proper pruning cut.

That’s the best advice I can give online. I hesitate to do so, but I’d rather you had some tips than just go at it. Just be careful. When in doubt, call a pro….so often it’s the cheapest and safest option in the end. You might even learn some good info first hand.
 
If you have to ask then I would say you are in over your head on this one. Call a pro. Anyone who is experienced enough to drop limbs directionally would not have to ask... And when you throw the electric house drop into the equation I would say you are in way over your head.

That's my .02
 
Whether free or not, it will be real cheap compared to the worst case scenario, and cheap enough if anything should go wrong. Don't do this around power, and wear your ppe, especially a hard hat and safety glasses.

For future reference, when trying to side notch a branch, ropes work wonders. How big of branches are we talking about? What kind of a tree is it? What saw are you using?

Barring any rope work though, it can be done. Some trees are more forgiving than others, but the key for me has been to give it a slightly downward angle from perpendicular. Let gravity give you a hand, and then bring the backcut in at an angle so that you leave plenty of hinge on the top side, even more than on the bottom, often much more, but don’t cut through the bottom. If the branch is long and heavy enough the hinge can and will pull apart on the top side and you've lost control. I do what I can to reduce weight and length if possible. And I won't go anymore perpendicular than I have to in order to miss what I don't want to hit.

I'll take a little at a time as I approach my limit, as you can only take so much, it depends on the tree's wood characteristics, and length and weight of the branch. I can’t stress that enough. DO NOT keep cutting if it doesn't go. Alot of times I'll quit and take my Stihl ht131, or something long enough and give the branch a shove at a safe place towards the tip of the branch if I can reach it. Somewhere that the saw will not get hung up as it goes. Sometimes it will only go so far because I have left a conservative hinge. Then I’ll address the backcut a bit and I’m done. Playing the wind, especially on a leafed out branch can be helpful to. In fact, if wind is a factor, do not cut towards it, let it work for you if anything.

Keep an eye on the branch and hinge and be mindful. Try to read what it's doing. Don't work directly underneath, if your saw is not long enough to be out a ways, don't do it or get a longer saw. Don't use a ladder.
Keep your escape routes open and don't hesitate to sacrifice the saw. It can even get pinched in the kerf before or during the branch falling.

Often times the branch will still be connected to the tree once it’s down. That can be tricky, dangerous and counterproductive. You’ll be tempted to cut it at the tree, but too often that can put you at a dangerous disadvantage. You don’t want a branch butt sandwich. I recommend cutting the branch in segments and working back to the tree from a safe distance and position. Take your time. It can be cut at the tree, but depending on the branch characteristics it can become very unpredictable and destructive. Don’t forget to finish with a proper pruning cut.

That’s the best advice I can give online. I hesitate to do so, but I’d rather you had some tips than just go at it. Just be careful. When in doubt, call a pro….so often it’s the cheapest and safest option in the end. You might even learn some good info first hand.
Nice description, well said.
 
I agree with others that if there is a service drop going to the house in the way, have it lowered, or get an insured tree company to come out and remove the limb.

As far as your question goes. I put my notch halfway between where the limb would naturally fall, and where I would like it to fall. Then when I make my backcut I leave a little more hinge wood in the direction of where I want the limb to fall and a lot of times it will twist that way once it's starting to fall. It takes practice, the right tree, and the right conditions.

Sorry Bigus Termitus, I didn't read your post, but yea what you said.
 

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