Lock Jack Sport
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John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
If you got the money and work big trees it is well worth it. There is a bit of a learning curve with the thing, release can be a bit jerky untill you get used to it, but it self tails coming off a limbwalk or when footlocking up the rope.
So does Mark Adams self advancing adjustable bridge, and I've made it work with the Vt. Cost max $10.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I think Mahks bridge is a comendable inovation, but there are some shortcomings that could be dangerous. Like it needing some sort of stopper just below max reach. Biner in a butterfly maybe?
I've tried I&I tresses too, they are not as simple and smooth as the LJ. The tresses have a crtical learning curve that the LJ does not have also. One can put it on and start to get used to it right away.
If you are a very experianced climber knot tie'er/splicer then I can see you would not be able to justify the cost. Even if you take out wear and replacement of LJ parts, and were retiring your tress cord every six months it owuld take 15 years to pay off.
I've tried I&I tresses too, they are not as simple and smooth as the LJ. The tresses have a crtical learning curve that the LJ does not have also. One can put it on and start to get used to it right away.
If you are a very experianced climber knot tie'er/splicer then I can see you would not be able to justify the cost. Even if you take out wear and replacement of LJ parts, and were retiring your tress cord every six months it owuld take 15 years to pay off
.Could you tell me where I can find the best description of the Mahks bridge? I don't have the time to search all the threads and a lot of you seem to be familiar with the site.
I am very comfortable with my Lock Jack Sport. All the ???? screws and clips really work on my brain but it keeps me alert and focused. I'm getten too old for another bounce. And that sling is too ARS friendly! I might try a cable.
My other frustration is the slack tending characteristics when working near or above my anchor. I haul line and throw in a slipped knot to deal with it. I've talked with the designer about this issue and he said he's always working on new variations. The Germans are real artists when it comes to metal; trees, also, for that matter.
I am very comfortable with my Lock Jack Sport. All the ???? screws and clips really work on my brain but it keeps me alert and focused. I'm getten too old for another bounce. And that sling is too ARS friendly! I might try a cable.
My other frustration is the slack tending characteristics when working near or above my anchor. I haul line and throw in a slipped knot to deal with it. I've talked with the designer about this issue and he said he's always working on new variations. The Germans are real artists when it comes to metal; trees, also, for that matter.
dan kraus
ArboristSite Lurker
I've been using the lockjack for about a year now. I think it's a ingenious tool. No fear of burning it up, self tails well, and when I sit down on it I don't drop down a little from the space between the pully and knot. But, it has some bugs I'm trying to work out. The jurky descending has got to go. I took the wooden knob off and replaced it with two grooved pieces of wood hinged in the back. Now I grab my line between them and squeeze them together as I pull down. This is much better, but I'm still working on it. I'm now back in action after a knee injury so I hope to get it dialed in shortly. I think it has a lot of potential. I'd like to hear what others have been doing to work out the bugs.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Then there is the German "Folding Cube" for thowline storage. That is slick.
Is Sherrill carying that?
Is Sherrill carying that?
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
I brought my Sport back from Germany in 2/01. I abolutely love the device. I know what Dan is talking about but I have a way of palming the release lever so that the descent is pretty smooth.
The half moon key is a little polished now so there is the occasional tiny, tiny, little creep. Not a slip, just a little fractional creep once in a while. I've gotten in the natural habit of giving the arm a little tweak whenever I set the LJ. This is no difference than setting any climbing hitch either.
The LJ works well on wet XTC rope and even with some snow crystals on the rope I've not founf any problem.
Last weekend I took a friend tree climbing for the first time. We climbed a seventy five foot white pine. This was her first time ever climbing trees. For the descent I used SRT with an Anthron and she used my LJ. She was able to descend very smoothly. I always have my right hand grabbing the rope at my hip for a break hand. She did this too and that gave her confidence. Using the LJ was simpler than using a knot. Next time out, she'll be tieing her own knots and not using the LJ.
Its been said that the LJ is a $300 replacement for an [almost] free knot. That is true. BUT...a lowering device is an expensive replacement for tree wraps and who is going to go back to rope wrapping?
Tom
Waiting for spring in the Twin Cities
The half moon key is a little polished now so there is the occasional tiny, tiny, little creep. Not a slip, just a little fractional creep once in a while. I've gotten in the natural habit of giving the arm a little tweak whenever I set the LJ. This is no difference than setting any climbing hitch either.
The LJ works well on wet XTC rope and even with some snow crystals on the rope I've not founf any problem.
Last weekend I took a friend tree climbing for the first time. We climbed a seventy five foot white pine. This was her first time ever climbing trees. For the descent I used SRT with an Anthron and she used my LJ. She was able to descend very smoothly. I always have my right hand grabbing the rope at my hip for a break hand. She did this too and that gave her confidence. Using the LJ was simpler than using a knot. Next time out, she'll be tieing her own knots and not using the LJ.
Its been said that the LJ is a $300 replacement for an [almost] free knot. That is true. BUT...a lowering device is an expensive replacement for tree wraps and who is going to go back to rope wrapping?
Tom
Waiting for spring in the Twin Cities
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
So Tom, have you bought your Good winch yet?
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
No need to buy a Good tool when two buddies, in town and one in MKE, who own them. If I need the tool, I hire one of them as a sub.
I haven't modified my LJ either. Does that say someting?
Tom
I haven't modified my LJ either. Does that say someting?
Tom
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I don't own one, I'm the "Representative At Large" for the GRCS.
If you are doing more of the taveling shows, maybe you should talk to Greg about having one to use?
.If you are doing more of the taveling shows, maybe you should talk to Greg about having one to use?
Here's Patrick Riedl & Dan Kraus enjoying a sunny day at the beach. That's Puget Sound in the background. We're 160' up in a Douglas fir on Whidbey Island, WA. Dan's LockJack doesn't look like it's slipping!
Hey Dan,
You mentioned an alteration to the SLJ knob. I can't see what you have done in the your photo. Maybe you can send a picture. Hope you had a good trip, it's been a while since I've been that high. Good to hear from all of you. I'll call and touch base later on this week.
Bob W
You mentioned an alteration to the SLJ knob. I can't see what you have done in the your photo. Maybe you can send a picture. Hope you had a good trip, it's been a while since I've been that high. Good to hear from all of you. I'll call and touch base later on this week.
Bob W
LockJack friction brake
The climbing line feeds out through the bottom of the lockjack and thru a tubular clamp made out of a 1 1/2" diameter limb that is partially hollowed out and split into two halves. A piece of webbing is glued to each half, making a hinge that forms a wooden tube that the line passes thru. Light hand pressure squeezes the two halves, slowing the passage of the line on descent.
Here's a pic from yesterday's climb in the Quinault rainforest that shows one of the tube halves. A simple half hitch keeps the line from self tailing when climbing up past your tie-in. As usual, I've got that mystified look at how easy it seemed for Dan to footlock up a single strand of static line into this 250' tall spruce. We're in 6" diameter wood about 10 feet from the top, complete with 360 degree view.
Luckily, we had our entertainment at the top. We assembled toy glider airplanes and tossed them out into the winds of the world. Our message in a bottle.
There are two guided climbs scheduled, one the last week of July, another the first 2 days of August, for folks that want to send their own message across the waters.
More pics at: http://www.treeclimbing.com/wwwboard/messages/4841.html
The climbing line feeds out through the bottom of the lockjack and thru a tubular clamp made out of a 1 1/2" diameter limb that is partially hollowed out and split into two halves. A piece of webbing is glued to each half, making a hinge that forms a wooden tube that the line passes thru. Light hand pressure squeezes the two halves, slowing the passage of the line on descent.
Here's a pic from yesterday's climb in the Quinault rainforest that shows one of the tube halves. A simple half hitch keeps the line from self tailing when climbing up past your tie-in. As usual, I've got that mystified look at how easy it seemed for Dan to footlock up a single strand of static line into this 250' tall spruce. We're in 6" diameter wood about 10 feet from the top, complete with 360 degree view.
Luckily, we had our entertainment at the top. We assembled toy glider airplanes and tossed them out into the winds of the world. Our message in a bottle.
There are two guided climbs scheduled, one the last week of July, another the first 2 days of August, for folks that want to send their own message across the waters.
More pics at: http://www.treeclimbing.com/wwwboard/messages/4841.html
