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Has anyone used the Red Locktite #271 on muffler bolts with any luck?
Locktite???
- Thread starter rahtreelimbs
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red
Works great if you don't mind breaking them off when you need to take the out. I use blue myself. Some muffler bolts just want to loosen up no matter what.
Only use red where you can heat it up to remove the screw.
Works great if you don't mind breaking them off when you need to take the out. I use blue myself. Some muffler bolts just want to loosen up no matter what.
Only use red where you can heat it up to remove the screw.
Lewis Brander
Addicted to ArboristSite
Reply to Rich.
I've come asross some bolts such as yours that would get loose. I have found some metal locking tabs that work. The ones with the bendable locking tabs. You could also try and drill small holes through the bolt heads and safty wire them, like they do on a lot of aircraft bolts to keep them tight. Just a suggestion. Lewis.
I've come asross some bolts such as yours that would get loose. I have found some metal locking tabs that work. The ones with the bendable locking tabs. You could also try and drill small holes through the bolt heads and safty wire them, like they do on a lot of aircraft bolts to keep them tight. Just a suggestion. Lewis.
YUKON 659
ArboristSite Guru
Red is a permanent loctite.....blue is removable. They also make a grade in between...high strengh.
Jeff
Jeff
red
We used red loctite on 041 supers to try and keep the screws tight. It worked, but when the cylinder gasket blew, you had better figure an extra half hour to get it apart.
Stick with the blue.
What color is the hi strength stuff that was mentioned?
We used red loctite on 041 supers to try and keep the screws tight. It worked, but when the cylinder gasket blew, you had better figure an extra half hour to get it apart.
Stick with the blue.
What color is the hi strength stuff that was mentioned?
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The screws that I am talking about are the screws that go into the cylinder. I was wondering about the effectiveness of the Locktite since heat is how you get them loose and the exhaust port gets real hot maybe rendering the Lock tite ineffective!
red#271
Use the blue, the red and you may not get the bolts back out without breaking them. I like Lewis B's idea, been there done that and it works. It's easier to drill the holes if you use a drill press, less chance of breaking a drill bit.
Use the blue, the red and you may not get the bolts back out without breaking them. I like Lewis B's idea, been there done that and it works. It's easier to drill the holes if you use a drill press, less chance of breaking a drill bit.
Lewis Brander
Addicted to ArboristSite
To geofore
Hi, gald somebody likes a suggestion. After college, I worked a bit for Pratt and Whitney Aircraft, from there inlisted in the Army. Spent almost 3 years working on helicopters. Everything was safety wired. My old Disston saw has holes in the exhaust bolts and the fuel meter screws, to keep them from backing out. The idea sure is not new. I've used locktight with good results, especally on studs, that back out. Don't like to use the stuff on bolts that I migh try and remove later. I have come across enough bolts that are hard to remove, because of disimilar metals. Mainly, steel and aluminum. They corrode, from electrolysis. Like using lead headed roofing nails on aluminum roofing materials. I usually use a lot of antisieze compound and make sure everything is torqued properly. I find that I normally don't have a problem. If you torque something and then run it to operatinng temperature and cool a couple times and retorque your work, usually I find it stays put. Thanks geofore, for the thread. Lewis.
Hi, gald somebody likes a suggestion. After college, I worked a bit for Pratt and Whitney Aircraft, from there inlisted in the Army. Spent almost 3 years working on helicopters. Everything was safety wired. My old Disston saw has holes in the exhaust bolts and the fuel meter screws, to keep them from backing out. The idea sure is not new. I've used locktight with good results, especally on studs, that back out. Don't like to use the stuff on bolts that I migh try and remove later. I have come across enough bolts that are hard to remove, because of disimilar metals. Mainly, steel and aluminum. They corrode, from electrolysis. Like using lead headed roofing nails on aluminum roofing materials. I usually use a lot of antisieze compound and make sure everything is torqued properly. I find that I normally don't have a problem. If you torque something and then run it to operatinng temperature and cool a couple times and retorque your work, usually I find it stays put. Thanks geofore, for the thread. Lewis.
ClearH20Scott
ArboristSite Operative
Package needs to say "service removable," otherwise.......
wired in
I have a buddy that put a plane togther in his garage and wired most bolts in. We thought we measured everything and could get the plane out the door when finished. Wings would fit through the door with a inch to spare on either side. Turn the prop horizontal and out the door. Nearly a year of weekends and it's ready to go out. We put the wheels on and wouldn't you know it was too tall to get out the door. Had to take the wheels off and dolly it out then put the wheels on out in the driveway. Got a good laugh out of that and learned to wire bolts in. The wire makes it easy to spot a loose bolt, broken wire, loose bolt. He had to take the wings and landing gear off to truck it to the airport anyhow but it looked great parked in his driveway.
I have a buddy that put a plane togther in his garage and wired most bolts in. We thought we measured everything and could get the plane out the door when finished. Wings would fit through the door with a inch to spare on either side. Turn the prop horizontal and out the door. Nearly a year of weekends and it's ready to go out. We put the wheels on and wouldn't you know it was too tall to get out the door. Had to take the wheels off and dolly it out then put the wheels on out in the driveway. Got a good laugh out of that and learned to wire bolts in. The wire makes it easy to spot a loose bolt, broken wire, loose bolt. He had to take the wings and landing gear off to truck it to the airport anyhow but it looked great parked in his driveway.
YUKON 659
ArboristSite Guru
Stihltech, the high strength Loctite is also red in color. I'll try to get the manufacturers #.
Jeff
Jeff
Lewis Brander
Addicted to ArboristSite
Reply to netree
Where do you get the Inconel wire. Who carries it? Lewis.
Where do you get the Inconel wire. Who carries it? Lewis.
NeTree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Try Ebay.
I have some here from where I used to work, but it's .040"- kind of big. You'd probably want something more like .020"-.025".
FYI, Inconel 600 is an alloy of primarily iron, nickel, and copper (Fe,Ni,Cu). The iron (and a small amount of columbium-Cb in the case of 601 &602) is what makes it heat-resistant.
So anyhow, look for it by alloy as well as "Inconel", which is actually a trade name from a particular manufacturer. (Think of "Pepsi" as opposed to just cola).
I have some here from where I used to work, but it's .040"- kind of big. You'd probably want something more like .020"-.025".
FYI, Inconel 600 is an alloy of primarily iron, nickel, and copper (Fe,Ni,Cu). The iron (and a small amount of columbium-Cb in the case of 601 &602) is what makes it heat-resistant.
So anyhow, look for it by alloy as well as "Inconel", which is actually a trade name from a particular manufacturer. (Think of "Pepsi" as opposed to just cola).
