Locktite?

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ACE

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Do you guys use Locktite on your stump grinder teeth bolts?
 
according to locktite

the reps at loctite say that if you use locktite it will work like never seize as to the fact that the rust won't work on clean locktite covered metal,It seals out the moisture.
 
You would be talking about the BLUE locktite which is removable. These guys probably only saw the RED permanent locktite. However, if you get two guys to agree on something, there are probably 10 more to back them up. Anti-seize would most likely be your best bet.
 
No need for Loctite . . . if the bolts are coming loose, then they aren't torqued correctly or stretched & worn out.

I seen and used all the different types of loctite red, blue & green, they wouldn't be the right solution for the bolts.

Plus loctite is way too expensive compared to antiseize (which is generally recommended by all the major manufacturers).
 
Thanks guys. If I were to use Locktie it would be the temporary kind or low strength.
 
No Loctite!

Do you guys use Locktite on your stump grinder teeth bolts?
I use NAPA or permatex anti-sieze lubricant on the threads.Makes it real easy to back out bolts. In 1500 hours i have never had a bolt get loose.I only tighten by hand with a 20" proto ratchet. No air. Try it, youl love it.
 
I use red loctite....removal is simple just heat the nut with a propane torch and it comes right off. The loctite stays on the threads better and seals outwater which causes corrosion and breaking of hardware on removal. I also only use hi grade hardware with black oxide finish they are the only hardware that lasts......no off the shelf Chinese grade 12.....I am still finding good hardware but it is getting tough.

I have now been corrected.....please disregard I do it but I waste time it appears
 
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Propane Torch?

I use red loctite....removal is simple just heat the nut with a propane torch and it comes right off. The loctite stays on the threads better and seals outwater which causes corrosion and breaking of hardware on removal. I also only use hi grade hardware with black oxide finish they are the only hardware that lasts......no off the shelf Chinese grade 12.....I am still finding good hardware but it is getting tough.
Man, why would you want to have to torch every bolt to remove? what a waste of time and energy. If the bolts don't loosen with anti-sieze and remove easily with a hand rachet, why bother with loctite?
 
Simple

When I do teeth I take extra time and make sure that they are fully seated and tight and STAY that way. I have customers that insist I do it with never seize and the nuts loosen and if they do not constantly keep an eye on the teeth and tighten them back up....they wear the mount holes out of round and it turns into a nightmare. If done right the first time I have no problems. Also I have found that never seize gets washed out of the end of the thread and allows corrosion at the end of the nut and bolt junction which can then seize and require removal with an oxy/acetylene torch which requires more total time.

One thing I have observed for myself through experience is that high impact loaded fasteners require time and attention or the next link in the chain wears out. And the next link in the chain is invariably far more expensive


Please disregard my mistake....as I stated it is a waste of time....
 
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If you have threads sticking out of the pockets, then your bolts are too long. They should be just sunken inside the pockets.
 
I am sorry that I did mistaken my current pad change on my cat with the nut comment in my now deleted post...sorry for the confusion my mistake.
I do not seem to have much of a problem using a torch to free the red loctite as it releases at 500F and I like my fasteners in high load to stay tight

But what do I know?:monkey:

I do need more rest....but back to plowing....LOL
 
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A small explanation. Up here I have been roped into doing two disc replacements that I neve wanted to get involved in in the first place. Both time most if not all the tooth holes were wound out due to the users running with loose hardware.
Of course I was brought used discs to replace the discs and it was more work than if I had fixed the holes but the customer is always right. Up here stump grinders do not get the amount of use they do in other places and the owners store the grinders outside sometimes covering the grinders but never covering the discs with resulting rust problems. I did have brain lock and apologize and will try to gather my thoughts better before posting in the future. I put my foot in this one.
The monkey face stands:monkey:

When I read my own post I realized It read pretty stupid on my part

I only used the loctite on these two so I didn't have the guys come back complaining to me about the teeth loosening
 
Loctite

:bang: If loctite really, truly worked how would you get the cap off the bottle(LOL) That being said, use loctite on new bolts, neversieze on old ones.:givebeer:
 
Why not just weld the bolts in?

:bang: If loctite really, truly worked how would you get the cap off the bottle(LOL) That being said, use loctite on new bolts, neversieze on old ones.:givebeer:
I disagree. Whenever i replace new pocket with new bolts i load the threads up with as much anti sieze thread lubricant as possible. The threads stay lubricated and rust free until its time to repalce again, usually around 300 hours.During that time each bolt would be loosed and tightened maybe 100 times in replacing new teeth. I Always hand tighten bolts. No air. Never had one get rusty or loose. Works for me.
 
I don't think you understand the guys up here

I mentioned to the first guy that I had the tooling to sharpen the teeth and he looked at me and asked quite seriously why anyone would sharpen stump grinder teeth cause they run in the dirt.:rolleyes:
 
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